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Thread: Rangie-intermittent brake failure

  1. 22nd April 2009, 09:39 AM #1
    onemore
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    Rangie-intermittent brake failure

    Vehicle: '93 Rangie Rover Classic.

    Briefly, the brakes are good one day and then the next day the light on the dash stays on and no brakes at all.

    Any ideas please fellas?

    Thanks,
    Mike
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  2. 22nd April 2009, 01:32 PM #2
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    langy
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    In a 2 door rangie I had, an auxiliary flexible brake pipe clogged up and that caused the pad to jamb, wearing unevenly and at a point causing something like what you describe. The no brakes situation is the shuttle valve coming into operation, so either you have a leak or the pads have worn down to nothing. Take off the wheels, put it on jackstands and have a good look.
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  3. 22nd April 2009, 03:01 PM #3
    PhilipA
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    Yours must have ABS. If so this may mean mucho money.

    On a non ABS the light on the dash on a 93 is just whether there is any fluid in the reservoir.
    Have you checked?
    There is no shuttle valve on the Girling ones after about 87 . I just replaced the master cylinder on my 93 yesterday and read the manual 2 nights ago.
    Regards Philip A
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  4. 22nd April 2009, 03:37 PM #4
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    p38arover
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    Possibly the accumulator or pump are failing. When you say no brakes, does it feel like it's got no power assistance?
    Ron B.
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  5. 22nd April 2009, 06:04 PM #5
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    Blknight.aus
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    it can also be the MC recirculating within itself.....

    check that and the abs modulator. (if fitted) If you dont know how pm me (just in case I miss the thread) and I'll post up how to do the MC check the modulator I'll need to research but I think its covered in rave.
    Dave

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  6. 23rd April 2009, 12:35 AM #6
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    LOVEMYRANGIE
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    I would check fluid levels first.
    With ignition off, pump brake pedal about 10 or so times, but not too hard, just enough to harden it up.

    Check fluid level in reservoir, should be at or just above top fill line.

    Turn ignition key till ABS pump starts and check to see where the fluid level drops to.

    IT MUST NOT GO BELOW THE LOWER LEVEL when pump pressurises. Any lower and it is possible for air to get in.

    If this is all OK, next thing is to check the accumulator by bleeding it. With ignition off, pump the brake pedal until hard, then just very lightly crack the bleed nipple with a drain tube on firmly located in a large jar and turn on ignition. You should get fluid straight away.
    If air comes out, turn it off, top up master cyl reservoir a tad higher than the top level mark, turn key back on and close nipple as soon as air stops.
    When you close the nipple you should hear the pump start to load up within about 10 seconds or so.

    Then you need to bleed the brakes. 4 nipples for the front, 2 for the back and need to be done in a specific order......

    If this doesnt fix it, Blknights your man!!

    I had this not too long ago caused by a leaking rear PRV. Fluid all over the place on top of the M/C but unless you took the PRV off, you couldnt see the leak from the cap that was just lightly squirting out making it look likr the reservoir had a leaky seal.
    Then everything went hard and pump came on too regularly. Turned out the PRV was letting in air once all the fluid leaked out and a good 40% of my rear brake line had air in it!!
    Cheers

    Andrew.
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