Swivel preload

**dullbird** · 29th April 2009, 05:48 PM

I think we will check all the easy stuff that mike and phil suggested above...and then maybe the swivel

just talking to Ian we have also realised that the only bushes that weren't changed where the ons at the back side of the trailing arm as the shop never had any in stock.

I dont know if that would have any bearing on it...in saying that I'm looking at getting a complete poly bush kit that covers everything as although mine are not old some are gen landrover and some are poly..would like to make them all poly

**discowhite** · 29th April 2009, 06:08 PM

fwiw, ide just re bearing and seal the complete front diff. its by no means hard, just time consuming.
to do the front of the ute it cost around 200 bucks.

cheers phil

**PAT303** · 29th April 2009, 06:26 PM

Originally Posted by 4bd1discovery

in the 120, when going over 100 round courners it started vibrating badly, did swivel pin preloads now its all good..

Exactly right.Swivel bearings fret in the straight ahead position and then when you turn they vibrate left-right severly as they move out of that wear pattern.They are one problem you can't make a mistake over. Pat

**dullbird** · 29th April 2009, 06:29 PM

Originally Posted by discowhite

fwiw, ide just re bearing and seal the complete front diff. its by no means hard, just time consuming.
to do the front of the ute it cost around 200 bucks.

cheers phil

Things like that I would love to do only issue is the car being needed for work it can't be off the road for long periods
Would it be worth doing front and back diffs especially as my rear pinion is still persistant on leaking

**JDNSW** · 29th April 2009, 06:31 PM

A couple of points.

It is likely that the problem does not have a single cause, but has several contributing causes - fixing one of them may fix the problem, but the other causes are still there and as they get worse the problem will recur.

It is usually easy to distinguish between drive shaft and wheel vibrations - the tailshaft vibration is higher in frequency by a factor of 3.5.

In my experience the swivel preload is the second thing to check after wheel balance for wheel frequency vibration, and for actual shimmy, it is the first.

As noted above, preload should be checked with the seal removed, but if the preload is about 5lbs higher with seal than specified without, this will be about right.

John

**discowhite** · 30th April 2009, 06:13 AM

Originally Posted by dullbird

Things like that I would love to do only issue is the car being needed for work it can't be off the road for long periods
Would it be worth doing front and back diffs especially as my rear pinion is still persistant on leaking

front diff can be rebuilt in 6 hours easy, 4 if youve done a few of them! the tedious part is cleaning all the bits..

so whens your next weekend off

cheers phil

**justinc** · 30th April 2009, 06:22 AM

hi Lou,

I would also do those bushes you spoke of in anearlier post, did you mean the radius rod bushes to axle housing?

JC

**dullbird** · 30th April 2009, 07:44 AM

Originally Posted by justinc

hi Lou,

I would also do those bushes you spoke of in anearlier post, did you mean the radius rod bushes to axle housing?

JC

no the higher ones that mount to the bracket....all bushes to axles were done

**dullbird** · 30th April 2009, 07:45 AM

Originally Posted by discowhite

front diff can be rebuilt in 6 hours easy, 4 if youve done a few of them! the tedious part is cleaning all the bits..

so whens your next weekend off

cheers phil

the 9th and 10th when I dont have anything planned...

i'm going somewhere this weekend.

where do i buy all the stuff to do it?

**discowhite** · 30th April 2009, 08:10 AM

Originally Posted by dullbird

the 9th and 10th when I dont have anything planned...

i'm going somewhere this weekend. buying another 2a??

where do i buy all the stuff to do it? karcraft.

what year mod? and it has abs, yes?

cheers phil

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