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Thread: Swivel preload

  1. #41
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    Dullbird you could kill a few birds with one stone,with the pinion seal buy the flange kit,JC put me onto that one,never leaked since. Pat

  2. #42
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    in the last two days I think the things I want to do to my car have gone about about 3 grand.....
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  3. #43
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Some after thoughts

    I spoke of adjusting the steering box .... A easy job to do ...But ... You need a "Midas touch" to get it right
    It is "way too easy" to "over do it" and bind up the worm shaft inside it .. (resulting in buying a recon box $$)

    I adjust via engine running and "twitching" the steering wheel and watching VERY closely at the wheel RIM (not the tyre) twitching in reaction to the adjustment ... then driving around the block to make sure the steering "self centres" promptly (after turning) & is not binding

    I would Highly recommend that this job be left to DiscoWhite to check & do

    Mike

  4. #44
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    It's amazing how much vibration can be caused by some dirt on one edge of a rim, usually caused after cleaning and all the mud settles at one point.

    I had a bad steering vibration caused by worn panhard bushes.
    From my experience it is good policy to replace everything in one hit.
    One worn part can cause the others to wear prematurely . Costs a bit more but worth it in the end.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by dullbird View Post
    in the last two days I think the things I want to do to my car have gone about about 3 grand.....
    You could just drive at 90 or 110,cost you nothing then. Pat

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    You could just drive at 90 or 110,cost you nothing then. Pat
    true
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  7. #47
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    When i had my track rod replaced with a graeme cooper heavy duty one and fitted the steering damper relocation bracket i got from Discowhite the vehicle had this massive steering wobble over 40km/h which started when you hit a bump. After a post on here i rebuilt both swivels (one bearing happened to be stuffed) and took the car for a drive and it still did the same thing. So now, i had new steering damper, new swivel hub bearings, newly greased packed and tightened wheel bearings and the problem didnt even get slightly better. In the end the problem turned out to be a loose panhard rod bolt, i tightened the bolt and the problem disapeared instantly.

    If there is freeplay i agree with Discowhite, the only cause can be flogged out tie rod ends or a worn or poorly adjusted steering box.
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  8. #48
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    You can add worn steering shaft universals or splines to the freeplay list too.
    The alloy spline in the lower universal of my steering shaft was badly worn when I bought it - I reckon about 10deg freeplay.

    Steve

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianwood View Post
    From my personal experience, flogged out swivel bearings caused the vehicle to wander and clunk a little over pot holes etc, nothing else...
    Flogged out swivels can most definately cause vibrations and shuddering in the front end, although not usually with the Railko sustem, but with the tapered rollers top and bottom or the tapered cone and spring of the series 1 and early series 2 models and Range Rover classic (tapered rollers T & B ).

    If the spring is broken or loses its tension and you hit a bump you can get a vibration that feels like you are on a corrugated road.

    A long time since I've had it happen and I converted those Series Landies to the Railko system.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  10. #50
    Join Date
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    have either you or mike had the prop shafts appart prior to the vibrations commencing.....?


    mikes 50 kph sounds like it may be uni joints out of phase.......?


    lous sounds like something may simply be loose.........



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