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Hi Guys,
Here goes my first post.
I am in the process of changing the rear pinion seal and have not been able to get the centrelizing pin out. Tried a 2" socket as a puller and applied some heat and it will not move.
Would anyone out there have any further advice?????
Because being in Katherine N.T, i don't have much choise in repairers.
thanks
Steve
does anyone know what the correct proceedure is to torque up the nut when re assembling.I have a new seal,nut & collapsable bush.Is there a specific torque setting or do you just pull it up till you feel it take up.It mentions nothing in my workshop manual for doing this on an assembled diff.
regards.
Stu
thats because you don't do it on assembled diff, the preload is set by checking the rotational resistance of the pinion.
Like Dave said, the initial preload is set when setting up the diff from rebuild, after pinion height is determined.
TAKE NOTE :::
EVERYONE who is replacing the pinion seal in a Sals, mark the relationship between the nut and the pinion shaft by drawing a line across the end of the shaft with a marker pen first. Remove flange and replace seal. refit flange and tighten pinion nut up to the original position, and tweak a TINY bit more (1 or 2mm only) to keep tension on the crush spacer. it is very difficult to collapse and 1mm or so is quite substantial. ALWAYS check the ease of rotation by hand, if 'tight' then carefully back nut off very little to release the preload a touch. We're talking fractions of mm here as it is quite touchy.
IF having to replace the flange in its entirety, obviously your marks aren't there anymore so tighten until a rise in rotational resistance is felt, you may then tighten it a little by little untill you feel a marked increase in ease of rotation BY HAND ONLY and then stop.
Possibly the most common reason the sals pinion failures happen, overtightening after a seal replacement:(
JC
Steve, you will notice a thread in the end of the pin? Select a bolt to fit the thread, M8 IIRC, and attach to slide hammer. Heat the flange gently around the outside as loctite is used to secure the centre pin from new. While still warm, you should be able to slide hammer it out. I HAVE had a few difficult ones, I have then had to resort to tapping out to 10mm and using a larger slide hammer:twisted:. The LR service tool isn't very strong, if you don't use heat it too can break:(Quote:
Originally Posted by NortonES2
JC