its the rear output seal on the tcase, in a workshop it takes about an hour to change and is 2/5 spanners in difficulty.
theres several threads on doing the tcase seal in the lt230 tcase.
but I can do another run down if you cant find them.
Hi,
I have a problem with my Disco's handbrake. A couple of months ago my friendly local mechanic Nick traced my handbrake not holding on a hill to oil on the handbrake pads. He replaced the pads and advised me to get a seal near them (rear pinion seal from memory) replaced as he thought that was causing the issue.
Today I had him fix an issue with the clutch leaking and got him to look at the handbrake again as it had started to not hold on hills, no prizes for guessing what was causing it, same issue. Oil on the pad.
He advised me to go to a diff and axle specialist as he isn't sure what it is causing the oil spill and doesn't want the job. He's a good mechanic and I trust him.
Now before I go wandering into an unknown diff shop asking for a quote does anyone have any idea what it could be please. I really don't want to look like I have no idea as in my experience you may as well wear a please rip me off T shirt if you look and act clueless.
I do some of my own servicing, just basic stuff, oil and filter, brake pads and any electrical as that's my background. I think it's important to know your limitations.
Thanks
Regards
Martin
its the rear output seal on the tcase, in a workshop it takes about an hour to change and is 2/5 spanners in difficulty.
theres several threads on doing the tcase seal in the lt230 tcase.
but I can do another run down if you cant find them.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
It will be the rear output seal on the transfer case. While getting the seal done make sure the felt washer that seals the splines is replaced too.
Probably worth checking the transfer case breather isn't blocked as that would pressurise the transfer case causing leaks.
yep....
its the same procedure from the series one all the way to the puma, just some sizes and sequence changes.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
i replaced my felt washer with silastic.........
i just put a bit of sealant on the end of the splines on the flange.......the outside edge........
not the edge that slides into the transfer case.......
Id agree as others have said, felt washer and rear oil seal.
ALSO.... Check for a warn output shaft.
Basic principle of changing / checking is simple.
1. Rear prop off
2. remove big nut from output shaft
3. slide out output flange
4. check for wear on the shaft. If there is even the smallest 'v' shape worn into the shaft, replace it otherwise it will always leak, no matter how many seals you throw at it!
5. Remove oil seal, replace with new (GENUINE part) - take care not to score the transfer box when using a big screwdriver to prize the seal out!!
6. Re-assemble in reverse order.
If there is a small score in the shaft it is possible to not push the new seal all the way home, that will hold the oil back a little, but is only prolonging the inevitable.
Regards,
Jon
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