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I just checked for you since I have it all handy. I've got a 1&5/16" 3/4"-drive socket. I use a good quality T-handle and a looong bit of heavy-wall pipe. This socket doesn't quite cover the flats of the nut as much as I'd like, but it's been fine so far.
It's 1 and 5/16th (just went out and checked mine in the shed). I had to buy a deep impact socket with a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter to get mine off, put on the end of a Milwaukee rattle gun. The socket and adapter cost me about $65 for something I'll probably only use twice.
Beat ya to it. :p
1 5/16 is about 34mm?
Set at 1&5/16", I got 33.3mm on the vernier, so a 34mm socket might work. You're better off with a snug fit, though, especially if the nut has been torqued right up.
I saw that after I posted but I guess I was just confirming haha!Quote:
Originally Posted by Davo
Jezza, if you can't justify the cost for a tool you will (hopefully) only use twice you are more than welcome to borrow mine. I too would recommend using the correct imperial socket instead of a 'close enough' metric. Mine was on exceptionally tight and it took a decent amount of time to crack it with a rattle gun.
We might be talking about a different bolt then.
Just the bolt on the crank pulley wheel at the front of the engine, in front of the timing cover
Not sure if miscommunication or if I need to study up on imperial measurements, but the correct socket was 15/16.
The difference is between the crank dog version and the standard version you have. From the OP:Quote:
Originally Posted by jezza89
It pays to read the whole thread before replying...:)Quote:
I have an early 3.5l with crankshaft pulley nut that accommodates a crank handle (book calls it a 'starter dog'). It is bigger than the standard one.