mate i have all the gear to make one the same as the one for sale it will be no different and will cost me nick's ......thus is the reasoning ..:angel:
cheers
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yep, thats the point I was trying to make by calling them 'stubby'
Go for it mate, unless there is a secret something they put in the ADR one I don't see why yours will be any different if indeed you are makeing one just like it (same parts etc)
Don't forget to post up piccys, rekon I might make one too. Or maybe I will weld a recover eye straight to the rear crossmember on the Series IIA :p :wasntme:
Thinking the same thing.
I assume this is a solid section? any particular grade steel?
I'm thinking of just milling it at the end to take a shakle (width) and then drilling it size for the shakle pin.
I was then thinking of drilling two pin holes + so it can ge turned to have the shakle either up or down
That one isn't solid, you can see with the corner radius that it's hollow.
Solid is massive overkill, but if that's what you've got lying around then fine. Mild steel is best for items like this because it stretches a lot when overloaded. Enough to go "hey look, it's stretched" rather than "wow, that fractured clean in two".
Your main concern, keep enough metal around the shackle hole so it can't pull out. I know it's a common sense but you'd be surprised how uncommon it can be.
Can anyone help me out with measurements on this?
The length/width/height of the rear box section and the thickness of the two side plates are needed.
I have a classic rangie so mount geometry isn't difficult. But my rangie doesn't have those two side bolts. Are they standard late disco attachments or aftermarket?
Also for completeness, the protrustion of the square receiver (from cross member to end) and how far back the pin hole sits.
Cheers.
OK so an extension on what is being said ....what about the pin in the treg hitch ?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/06/299.jpg
cheers