Thread: Rear recovery hook

Originally Posted by BigJon

If anyone can supply one of those slide in shackle mount thingies that will suit an ARB on a Classic Rangie then I will buy it. I can get one made locally (Horsham) for around $125. The off the shelf units don't work, they are not long enough.

why cant you just drill another hole in the receiver to take the standard one.......?
instead of having one made up at 4 times the cost........

So if I can just recap....

In the case of a Vehicle Snatch recovery....

Don't use the pin, It's dangerous.

Don't use the shackle insert unless it's at a perfect angle... It can break.

Don't get the hook on version cos someone might hurt their leg.

Don't use the tow ball becuase they break off.

Don't take the tow ball off becase the receiver isn't strong enough.

Don't use the front Pintle on 101 cos the Chasis is too thin.

In fact, Just DON'T OK....

How am I doing here!

if I have to have something come through my windscreen at high velocity.... What should I choose, a strap on it's own after a receiver hitch pin breaks, a strap with a rated shackle on it, a strap with a broken shackle on it, Miranda Kerr? Nothing.

IAN

Originally Posted by mrapocalypse

So if I can just recap....

In the case of a Vehicle Snatch recovery....

Don't use the pin, It's dangerous.

Don't use the shackle insert unless it's at a perfect angle... It can break.

Don't get the hook on version cos someone might hurt their leg.

Don't use the tow ball becuase they break off.

Don't take the tow ball off becase the receiver isn't strong enough.

Don't use the front Pintle on 101 cos the Chasis is too thin.

In fact, Just DON'T OK....

How am I doing here!

if I have to have something come through my windscreen at high velocity.... What should I choose, a strap on it's own after a receiver hitch pin breaks, a strap with a rated shackle on it, a strap with a broken shackle on it, Miranda Kerr? Nothing.

IAN

its a fickle old world the recovery issue ...i think all in all nothing really is perfect and no recovery is the same ....but you sure as hell ant going to leave your truck there because your not to sure of which one to use

but again it makes for very useful discussion

cheers

If you use a 4.5T SWL shackle, if you use it how it was designed to be used, if your recovery point is designed and rated correctly and IF you use a (say) 8T GBS or MBL snatch strap, THEN the weakest link is the snatch strap and it WILL break well before any of the other items in the snatching operation, Lot's of IF's.
In the rigging industry ropes or staps that stretch, like a snatch strap do are banned, too bloody dangerous.
I have a snatch strap, it's still in it's wrapper, I've never used it, I have pulled many out of bogs, either with my chain or winch ext. strap, never had a problem. A bit of spade work or roadbuilding usually negates the need for snatching, use COMMONSENSE it may save yours or someone elses life.
If you are going to use a snatch strap, factor in what may happen if the recovery point breaks (worst scenario), snatch more gently, don't rush it, consider the consequences, DO IT SAFELY, Regards Frank.

Originally Posted by cucinadio

Hi Guys

lm thinking of making one of these, have all the parts ready to go ....opinions?



cheers

Just a side note...

If you or someone else does indeed make this contraption, PLEASE USE LONGER BOLTS!!! dunno if I would trust those sudbby ones Get some quality high tensile ones with quality matching nyloc-nuts

Personally I like the look of this, if done properly then it should be no different to if the hook was bolted to the chassis (better if anything).

If someone is stupid enough to walk into this then they deserve to be hurt - watch where you are walking people bwhahahaha... the towball on the HR kit on dad's 80series tojo sticks out further than that anyway

Originally Posted by Newbs-IIA

Just a side note...

If you or someone else does indeed make this contraption, PLEASE USE LONGER BOLTS!!! dunno if I would trust those sudbby ones Get some quality high tensile ones with quality matching nyloc-nuts

Personally I like the look of this, if done properly then it should be no different to if the hook was bolted to the chassis (better if anything).

If someone is stupid enough to walk into this then they deserve to be hurt - watch where you are walking people bwhahahaha... the towball on the HR kit on dad's 80series tojo sticks out further than that anyway

You will no more strenth from longer bolts
The nyloc nuts are doing the job and the nut is as thick as the diamater of the bolt so it wont matter if the bolts are a foot longer no more strenth can be gained just a bloody hassle to undo when the threads rust
cheers
blaze

Originally Posted by bblaze

You will no more strenth from longer bolts
The nyloc nuts are doing the job and the nut is as thick as the diamater of the bolt so it wont matter if the bolts are a foot longer no more strenth can be gained just a bloody hassle to undo when the threads rust
cheers
blaze

The Nyloc nuts shown above are on bolts too short for them, the thread hasn't even gone thru the "Nylon" part of the nut, which is designed to stop the nuts from coming loose and coming off, bolts about 6mm longer would be better, Regards Frank.

Why bother to make one when it is for sale at any good FWD shop .I got mine from Bushwhacker for $45.00 and it is ADR approved.