Thread: Where is this leak from T/C or Gearbox...???

If you have a look back to a posting Called Massives thank in the D2 fourm on the 16 april there are some photos of when I pulled out my transfer caser and replaced it after it blew up.

Took me and a mate who is a spaner about 8 hours to pull the old one out and put the new one in.

The seal on the auto out put sharft and transfer case are very tough we did not replace any of the seals when we did the change over and have had no problems and have no leaks

When we filled up the transfer case it took about 2.1L of oil if you want to do your auto oil look up www.discovery2.co.uk it has a step by step walk through with photos and all tools you require

Good luck with it I hope this info can help you.

the easiest way is to go visit a hydraulic shop and purchase some oil dye.

put that in the tcase (it has nothing that can permanantly absorb the dye) and if the oil leak changes colour theres the culprit.

Check the input shaft for high/low range selector.
Mine leaks there.

ATF is either Red (or Green if it's Transmax Z)

Gear oils are generally light amber. (unless it's Castrol Syntrax or any of Redlines lubes which are red )

Thanks for all replys!
I cleaned Tc and I will try this talc powder trick - if this doesn't help I'll go for oil dye - thanks Blknight.aus !- once I find it I'll post more .
Cheers!

Yeah.... it is definetely input on TC then...
I think I will try tackle it myself.
What seals and rings should I get and replace- having TC Out - anyone HELP please !
Is dealer best place to get them or are there any cheaper options ????

parts in Sydney = Karcraft, BMI or Rovacraft.
The bits are cheap.

If doing it yourself, make up some locating dowels out of some long bolts. I detailed the specs about two years ago in a thread on clutches. (I know yours is an auto, but the dowels should be the same, I hope )
These hold the t/case in line with the g/box on reassembly so you don't stuff up the new input shaft seal.

The intermediate shaft O rings should be replaced too.
It's often the front one that is leaking, not the input shaft seal. The oil dribbles off at the same spot on the t/case.
The O rings can go hard with age, or the shaft can elongate the bore in the t/case, in which instance the case should be bored and bushed as it will leak again, although Dave Ashcroft did mention an oversize section O ring recently that can help here when the wear is minimal.

These can be done without dismantling the t/case, but you do have to be careful as the bearing pre-load is set by a crush spacer, so you either replace it, or do the stake nut up to exactly the same spot it was undone from.

The TC in my MY03 D2 uses shims for the intermediate shaft preload rather than a crush tube. Hence I had no hesitation in retighening the nut further than it was previously. I also ground another flat on the shaft 90 degrees from the original so that the bearing forces acted on unworn shaft areas. My TC had a locating stud so no extra dowels were required.