Thread: Centre diff won't engage

if the center diff is engaged, and one wheel is lifted up, it will still spin

it is only working on the diff on that axle, not the center diff.

Does the yellow Diff-lock light come on?

Try this (on gravel, sand or on grass, NOT on bitumen): Lock centre diff. Drive slowly in a circle at full lock.

If the diff is locking you will feel the front and rear wheels "fighting" each other and it will probably feel like you've left the handbrake on a bit. On gravel you can hear the wheels slip/catch as the driveline pressure is released.

Let us know how that goes.

HTH
David

Hi
On the subject of center diff lock,
correct me if im wrong but, when the center diff is locked in, isnt this the same as engaging low range but equal power is given to both front and rear diffs.
And also, how is center difflock useful if you dont have an lSD or lockers in the diffs.

Thanks to anyone who can help.

Originally Posted by Phoenix

if the center diff is engaged, and one wheel is lifted up, it will still spin

it is only working on the diff on that axle, not the center diff.

The centre diffs job is to convert constant 4WD, which will lose drive if traction to one wheel is lost, i.e. jacking one wheel in the air. Locking the centre diff will direct drive equally to the front diff and the rear diff, hence if only one wheel is lifted, e.g. one front wheel, then drive will still be delivered to the back wheels and will still drive the vehicle. This is not happening with mine.

However upon further investigation with tin lid pushing the diff lock lever left and right (with the motor stopped and handbrake on) I was able to observe the linkages more clearly and there is too much play in them, not allowing the centre diff lock arm to rotate enough to engage. Not sure if they can be adjusted or need replacing.

The yellow centre diff lock light did come on once when I puched the centre diff lock arm across with my fingers when the lever was in the correct position and when tested in this position the diff lock was engaged and did drive forward with one wheel in the air (on trolley jack)

Hope this is of help.

Originally Posted by Rover110

Hi
On the subject of center diff lock,
correct me if im wrong but, when the center diff is locked in, isnt this the same as engaging low range but equal power is given to both front and rear diffs.
And also, how is center difflock useful if you dont have an lSD or lockers in the diffs.

Thanks to anyone who can help.

Low range doesn't have to be with diff-lock engaged. If you want to do low speed manouvering with a trailer etc you might just want to go slowly (and turn sharply), so you don't want to lock your centre diff.

If you've got locked front and read diffs, but you don't lock the centre diff, you are back to (sort of) 2WD again.

Hi Landy07, I had a similar problem recently and it turned out to be the pivot point washers on the arm from the diff lever in the cab to the connection on the TC. The plastic washers had fractured and allowed the centre point of the arm to slop around enough to prevent transfering the full motion of the lever to the diff lock actuator.The washers were quite cheap [$ 5 the pair IIRC]and easy to instal once the transmission tunnel was removed, itself a pain.It may be possible to do it without the removal of the tunnel but it is quite tight in there. Hope this helps, Cheers, 130man.

Thanks 130Man

I think you've hit the proverbial, there is way too much movement on all the pivot connection points, are you able to point me in the direction of supply of these plasic washers.

Thanks.