Any one in Syndey want to lend a hand?

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Lou

If the low beam on the same side works then it shouldn't be an earthing issue and if the high beam on the other side works then it's not a switch issue.

That is why I considered it to be either globe or fuse issue.

You have answered the globe and fuse issue so the remaining places for your fault are the connector on the back of the globe, or the hi beam wire or connectors between the headlamp and where the hi-beam branches to each side, (or the fuse box if there are fuses for both high beams).

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Get muddymech to check that there is power to the fuse, change it anyway and check both sides. Then check each wire and connector between the globe and firewall.

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You may find that it is a dry joint or dirty connector.

You shouldn't need a multi-meter just a 12V test pencil should do the job. Clamp the lead to a good earth and (starting at the headlamp is often easiest) test each connector in turn until you get power, then the fault is the wire or connector immediately after that (one back on your test pattern).

Diana

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We have done this....

Although some one has said it would be more acurate with a test light and thinks it maybe using the multi meter is what is not giving us a true reading

Oh and he has someone round helping today so thanks for the offers guys :)

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Originally Posted by dullbird

We have done this....

Although some one has said it would be more acurate with a test light and thinks it maybe using the multi meter is what is not giving us a true reading

Oh and he has someone round helping today so thanks for the offers guys :)

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a multi meter will give you the same result as a test light, although a test light wont test resistance.
the trick is knowing how to use one.

the lights look better than the doors:eek:

cheers phil

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Originally Posted by discowhite

a multi meter will give you the same result as a test light, although a test light wont test resistance.

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the trick is knowing how to use one.

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the lights look better than the doors:eek:

cheers phil

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He knows how to use a multi meter.......if you see what I wrote above he was having trouble holding the probes and operating the switches and keeping a good contact. not easy to keep a good contact in the fuse holders.

Anyway turns out it was a dirty connector from what he told me..

And yes the doors,bastard things I thought perhaps it was because the both of them have a crease at the top and wondered whether they were just ever so slightly out of shape...but he said that you think its the bulkhead thats out or something?

Glad to hear it's fixed.

Here's a good idea for a Xmas or Birthday present for Ian: Test Leads, Probes and Clips for Fluke Multimeters

Makes things a lot easier when you think you need 3 or 4 hands! Pretty cheap too.

Digital multimeters are not good for fault-finding. They have too high an input impedance and can indicate what appears to be a good supply voltage even though it's not.

What's better is a very low ohms/volt analogue multimeter. It will load the circuit and if it is resistive, the voltage will not read 12 volts like it would with a digital meter.

I use the analogue meter I made in 1966.

Lou

I had no doubt that MM knew how to use the multi-meter. Personally, I just find that using the test pencil is easier than the Muti-Meter for connector testing, as you can read it from any angle and even in the dark. Not something that is always easy with either the galvanometer or digital multi-meters, particularly if the leads don't have an aligator clamp.

Glad that it's working.

Cheers
Diana

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Lou

I had no doubt that MM knew how to use the multi-meter. Personally, I just find that using the test pencil is easier than the Muti-Meter for connector testing, as you can read it from any angle and even in the dark. Not something that is always easy with either the galvanometer or digital multi-meters, particularly if the leads don't have an aligator clamp.

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Agreed. The test light also has the advantage of loading the circuit. A resistive circuit will show up quite well.

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Originally Posted by p38arover

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Digital multimeters are not good for fault-finding. They have too high an input impedance and can indicate what appears to be a good supply voltage even though it's not.

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What's better is a very low ohms/volt analogue multimeter. It will load the circuit and if it is resistive, the voltage will not read 12 volts like ot would with a digital meter.

I use the analogue meter I made in 1966.

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This is what we were told by the garage.