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Thread: HELP! Wiring for screen heater

  1. #1
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    HELP! Wiring for screen heater

    Yeah I know! Its really easy,but..............I have these electrical screen heaters that attach to the dash just under the windscreen, each has its own on/off switch. One of them has the remants of two wires coming from the same connector (there is only the one connector) the other has only one wire. I am thinking that the power comes into the one with the two wires and then runs across to the other one. There is a coiled heater element wire that runs from the switch along the inside of the body (which is like a elongated clam shell) to a insulated post. I am assumming that this is earth.

    Each heater can be operated individually. The principal is that air comes through the vents is directed up through the opened body of the heater and warmed air is then directed onto the screen.

    My question is How the hell do I wire them up and to where?












    Thanks for all the numerous replies I am sure to get

  2. #2
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Rob, there's no need to skimp on the photos!

    Can you post some bigger ones as well as one of the back of the unit where the switch is?
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
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  3. #3
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    Trying to get them bigger...photobucket is not compling Will have to take some photos and post them up

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    can you email them to me?
    Last edited by p38arover; 25th August 2025 at 04:07 PM.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  5. #5
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    Finally got some photo's apologys for the poor quality.

    This is what the unit looks like:



    This is the unit opened up :



    This is the switch and heater element:


    The switch:


    another one:



    and finally this is ATTACK CAT wanting to know what the hell I am doing, the mongrel bit me just after I took this


  6. #6
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    Rob, I'd suggest, that, as you thought, the second wire went off to the other heater element on the other screen.

    I assume the other end of the element has a wire to go to earth? If not, then each unit will need one.

    While you could take the wires straight back to the battery via a fuse, this could allow it to be operating (and flattening the battery) when the engine isn't running.

    I think it would be better to wire it thus:

    +ve battery -------> fuse ----> relay terminal 30 ---- relay terminal 87 -----> switch ----> element ----> earth.

    +ve IGN -----> (second) switch ----> relay terminal 86 ---- relay terminal 85 -----> earth

    Why this way? It won't work unless the ignition is on, preferably engine running. The second switch will isolate the relay when not needed.

    This diagram (for a lighting circuit) is similar.



    If I could think of a simple way to do it, I'd only have it operational when the engine is running. Actually, there is. One can use the oil pressure switch to control the relay as well. No oil pressure and the units won't turn on.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #7
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    it looks as though the other end of the element will earth via the mounting screw.......
    so it will just need a power feed to the wire where the switch is......



    and as ron said.......use a fused feed........

  8. #8
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    Thats is my thinking too Zook, the element ends in a ring which fits over the retaining /fixing screw which then goes into a distance piece, to keep the back and the front apart, the front then screws on into this post. My thinking was that there is only one power line into a unit, say the drivers side, this is then directed across to the second unit on the passengers side. Each unit is activated by its own switch. Earth is achieved via the screw at which the element ends.

    Ron ! thanks for your considered input. Will have to do some under dash study.

    Not sure how effective the whole shebang is going to be, but will look really 'cool' and that is the main thing. Not 'cool' to look uncool

    Thanks fellas!

  9. #9
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    cool.....?



    if it works......it should be HOT......!!

  10. #10
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    Rob,
    If it bites you again, time to make some nice warm mittens or moccasins for those chilly winter mornings...

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

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