Looking forward to the results and pics. Maybe it will help me on my quest for a cam to suit my stroker :twisted:.
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Looking forward to the results and pics. Maybe it will help me on my quest for a cam to suit my stroker :twisted:.
Yep ... hate that when it happens ... I've learnt to put just a little drop of "Super glue" on one spot of the thermo and stick it to the housing ... Just enough to hold it in place ... Never slips again :)Quote:
Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE
Mike
:)
But I did it on my bench with the manifold standing up....!
Oh, and remember, you can't use the bolts for the manifold preheater and use them for your fuel rail as the threads for these are drilled all the way thru onto the plenum and sound like the ram tube plate has a massive vacuum leak and then you pull everything down looking for bad seals and find it AFTER you replace bolts, sealant etc etc right before you put the plenum back on...... FFS
Told ya that cat was trouble.... :angel:Quote:
Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE
... and I take it that, in short , you found the missing fuel rail bolt :p
Trouble is right, he takes on my Pitt puppy.....:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by mike 90 RR
Didnt find the missing one, but i did have some bolts on the Hilux tray sitting round the side!
Ended up replacing the 6 ram tube bolts with HT ones from Bunnings sourced at 6PM Sunday night, (Bunnings, fast becoming my automotive savour in times of distress and need....)
Had a small puddle of water underneath at work today that was dripping from RH bank water inlet of timing cover that funnily enough, stopped when I started it and engine warmed up ;) Only dripped about half a litre as reservoir didnt drop much so just finished pulling belts and pulleys off and tweaking all the TC bolts again. The 2 on the RH side under waterpump and above oil pump gave up a bit of slack and should be all good now.
Will give my thoughts on it now I have driven it in the next post.
Just need a few minutes to get it out of my head and onto the screen!
Cheers
Andrew
Have been a bit strapped for time this week, but will get pics and a report on how it runs by or over the weekend.
For those chomping at the bit, I am not as impressed as I hoped to be and my thoughts now are leading me back to a genuine LR cam, BUT..... although this cam is supposed to be the largest cam available for a std ECU, fuelling may need to be played with.
I spoke to TRS this morning who stated that "... we sell 80 of these cams a year ..." etc etc, but not once in a 15 minute phone call did they offer any suggestions, just tried to tell me there was other things wrong with my engine and flog me a rising rate regulator. Don't think there is anything wrong with the engine as it actually ran better and revved harder with a stuffed cam....
Both times I have spoken to them, both times a bit arrogant so I dont think I will be shopping there again, but that may just be my experience. What I dont like is being told I dont understand what i am doing by someone younger than the amount of years I have been in the automotive industry, cutting my teeth in high performance and race engines. :mad:
Anyway, more to come....
Oh, If anybody in WA has a chipped ECU that plugs straight in, I would really love to borrow it for an hour or so to see if it changes my woes....
Cheers
Andrew.
TRS suggested fitting a rr regulator to fuel my 4.6 instead of a chip. But everyone else I've mentioned this to says it's ok on a flapper efi but a bodge on a 14CUX and the only way to get the fueling right is to get the fuel map done.
Mark Adams can supply a chip tailored to the engine's specs - he is only one of a couple of specialists who has the Lucas hardware capable of developing these. 1995 on ECUs should have a socketed EPROM holder to allow the chip to be changed easily. You can buy these from Tornado Systems.
OK, here are the pics as promised.
First, how it all looked before we started.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1597.jpg
And a gratuitous pic of my spotties! Wanted to drop the bar to make working a bit easier, but I lost interest due to the need to cut my wiring which is rigid with no connectors.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1598.jpg
Manifold removed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1599.jpg
After removing belts, waterpump, alt, timing cover etc etc, we got to the chain set. These two pics show how bad the chain was stretched. These are the original gears and chain. The cam gear was actually not too bad being nylon and would still be serviceable, however the chain and crank gear werent so healthy but it never rattled or made any noise.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1600.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1601.jpg
Cam out, and it was quite obvious where all the noise was coming from. Even I was surprised how bad it was, but again, noise wise I have heard far far worse with only half the damage this one was carrying.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1602.jpg
Measuring the lobe height of the bad lobe in inches. Best was 1.332", this was the worst at 1.255".
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1603.jpg
Measuring the base circle of the bad lobe.....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1604.jpg
All the base circle measurement came in within about .003"-.007" of each other which isn't too bad really and the linishing marks can still be seen on the base of all lobes. The only one with any marks was on the bad lobe. To work out valve lift, take lobe height minus base circle and then multiply by the rocker ratio of 1.6:1. Std valve lift is 9.49mm or .373".
Go on, do the math.....!
And this is why....... :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1605.jpg
Comparing the old & new cams. In this pic, you can see the varnish deposits on the old lobes and how they are situated towards the front. The lifters run on the backside of the lobe which is what initiates lifter rotation in the lifter bore. A lack of this leads to early lifter and lobe failure as was very nearly the case with this cam...
My finger points to where the dud lobe was.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1606.jpg
Closeup of the lobe roll over point. Bit fuzzy but didnt workout Mikes camera had a macro function till later....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1607.jpg
This gives you an idea of the old and new lobes. Even wornout, the profile of the old cam (front) seems to be a lot bigger than the Dynotec CM216D which is supposed to be a Stage 1 upgrade. The ramp and width of the original is visually bigger, but the lift is smaller compared to the Dynotec.
I am still not sold on this cam.
Casting # on original cam is HRC1619, but a search on Microcat didn't find it under my VIN #. Think it may just be a casting blank number.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1608.jpg
Tightening cam bolt.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1609.jpg
Rocker gear going back in.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1610.jpg
Rocker covers on, timing cover and all ancilliaries bolted and ready.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1611.jpg
Distributor in and all but manifold installed. This is about where I left it for Saturday night, but just played around with some other things that could be done while I had access.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1612.jpg
Manifold installed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1613.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1614.jpg
All the photos can be seen at http://s389.photobucket.com/albums/o...CHANGE%20PICS/
Will need to do a bit more tuning as it is still not where I would have expected it to be performance wise. This cam is supposed to be a straight swap with no mods or chipping required, yet it feels sluggish and needs a lot more foot burying to get it to go.
Next thing is to gas analyse it, try adjusting air flow meter and see if it performs any better.
Time will tell.
Big thanx again to Mike 90 RR for his help.
Cheers
Andrew.