Thread: ABS sensor - cable repair?

LR have an overlay harness available to bypass any damaged sections. The part number for the front harness kit is SSW500020 (assuming you have a RHD D2).

It's not cheap though but from what I can work out from the bulletin, it replaces the original harness for both front wheels.

Hi,

Shouldn't be hard to splice the wire, from what I remember, the loom is nothing special. The resistance difference should be minimal.

All the faults I had with the sensors were with the cable being damaged in the grommet (wheel arch), so I'd focus there. At the time I had the loom and sensor replaced, but later on I ripped them apart to work out why they were busted.

cheers,

Pete.

Some feedback, with the help of Marius of Savannah Motors in Killarney (South Africa), and "listerdiesel" on forum.landrovernet.com I spliced in a piece of cable at the spot where the cable was broken. It was quite easy to find -
. remove the wheel, brake pad caliper and disc assembly (do it 4 times, and it will take you 10 minutes in total!)
. unplug the ABS sensor cable inside the engine compartment, and wiggle the plug through the hole in the fender
. carefully clean the area around the ABS sensor - you don't want stuff falling into the hub
. unscrew the allen nut, and remove the sensor from the hub (pull gently)
. I sticked some "wondergom" (bluetack) over the sensor's hole

(I was unable to completely remove the sensor from the hub. For the life of me I could not figure out whether I had to feed the sensor or the plug side of the cable through that small opening in the hub - so I left it in there.)

Now connect a multimeter to the plug side - it should measure about 1150 ohms. Start from the one side of the cable, and bend it piece by piece until you find where the resistance go to infinity (i.e. the cable breaks). I was actually able to hear it making a click sound from the wire disconnecting when pulling on both sides of the suspect bit. I cut the wire, and struggled a bit with the fiddly rubber grommets that keep the cable in place - they can slide around on the cable. I then spliced in a bit of the new abs cable I got from listerdiesel and Marius (thanks guys!), and sealed it with heat shrink cable sleeving. I was a bit in two minds on whether to solder the connections or not, but in the end I did it - will see how that keeps up. The one joint is in a stupid place - there where the cable is flexing when the wheels are steered from side to side - so I might have to redo that if it breaks there again. Keep that in mind - it might be better to cut off more of the old cable so your joints are in a better place (i.e. on the brake line piece).

This was not a difficult job at all, and will save me a handy amount of money :-)

Hi Phuma
I will PM you shortly as I want to increase the length of my D2 cables.
Maybe we could have a chat over a beer.

Rudolf - do you want to lengthen it because of extra lift from suspension? I have new OME suspension, and is a bit worried about whether the cabling will be long enough on full extension.

Originally Posted by phuma

Rudolf - do you want to lengthen it because of extra lift from suspension?

50mm lift
Yes, I am at max to what should be discribed as risky.
Even the brake lines needs to be made longer.
I checked at my club cross axle track and the ABS cable are at there max.
PM me if you are in Gauteng. I live in Centurion.

Originally Posted by phuma

Some feedback, with the help of Marius of Savannah Motors in Killarney (South Africa), and "listerdiesel" on forum.landrovernet.com I spliced in a piece of cable at the spot where the cable was broken. It was quite easy to find.......

Hello phuma, I found your 'fix' after Googleing the 3 A's. They came on after a tight left turn. I looked under there (left wheel) and noticed the grommet had pulled out but I've not checked for any other damage yet (using your procedure). What type cable can I use to splice if I find a break?

John - I got some ABS cable (from broken sensors). I do think though that any high quality cable with a nice solid outer sleeve will work... just seal it properly with shrink sleeve.