300tdi glow plugs

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Originally Posted by dans

... there is power getting to the plugs when you first turn on the key, then goes off when you can hear the relay click off. ...

Dans

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That is what is supposed to happen. The glow plug relay incorporates a timer to switch the current off.

I also think you don't need glow plugs in a 300Tdi - as long as engine compression is good (rings, valves, head gasket) and the starter cranks it properly, it should start.

Before you pull any glow plugs to replace them, disconnect the wires and use your multimeter to measure the resistance (ohms) between the electrical terminal of each glow plug and a good earth on head - those measurements will tell you which if any glow plugs are dead.

Don't know if this will help but I live in a cold patch of Tassie, recently 8 degrees below zero. I found with my Discovery that it helps heaps to run a 10mm earth lead directly from the neg of the battery to the mounting of the air con pump. I also changed the woven earth from the starter to the chassis to a 10mm cable. It made the engine spin faster when it was cranking. Good luck.

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Originally Posted by Bush65

That is what is supposed to happen. The glow plug relay incorporates a timer to switch the current off.

I also think you don't need glow plugs in a 300Tdi - as long as engine compression is good (rings, valves, head gasket) and the starter cranks it properly, it should start.

Before you pull any glow plugs to replace them, disconnect the wires and use your multimeter to measure the resistance (ohms) between the electrical terminal of each glow plug and a good earth on head - those measurements will tell you which if any glow plugs are dead.

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My Nissan Patrol had started to get a little hesitant to start instantly and would puff out a huge cloud of smoke on initial start-up when cold. I measured the glow plug resistance and one was 48 Ohms and one 180 Ohms. The other four were within spec of less than 2 Ohms. I bought a set of glow plugs ($72 for 6) and now it starts as I think about turning the key and there's not even a trace of smoke on start-up. Very happy.:)

As stated, look elsewhere. Mine started fine the other day, no glow (or any other butcherous form of cold start aid!!), diesel from Sydney and -8.5c....

Andy

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Originally Posted by dullbird

you dont need your glow plugs I would be looking else where......

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Well, I have to disagree. Not working glow plugs can and will make a difference, albeit at rather low temperatures as we usually have in winter. Been there, done that. You may get the engine fired up anyway, provided your battery isn't on its way out, but it needs some cranking. Working glow plugs will make things more easy. Especially if the engine is a bit worn or other troubles are contributing. Changing glow plugs is straightforward, if somewhat fiddly. Well worth the try.
As a matter of fact, if you wouldn't need the glow plugs at all some penny pincher at the factory would have manufactured the engine without from the beginning...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bush65

Before you pull any glow plugs to replace them, disconnect the wires and use your multimeter to measure the resistance (ohms) between the electrical terminal of each glow plug and a good earth on head - those measurements will tell you which if any glow plugs are dead.

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Hi Bush65, What setting should I have the Multimeter set on to do this test? With it set at 20k I am getting readings of .01 .01 .02 and 1.59, obviously swomething wrong, which ones?
On another topic, recently have had oil blowing past the seal of the oilcap on the tappet cover!! Does the breather on the tappet cover require replacing at 350000Ks
Peter:angel:

canceled