Thread: Possible? TD5 oil chain stopped the cam chain!

Droped the sump today, oil leak that I thought was rear main leak is only a sump gasget dammaged when fitted..
Oil pump bolt tight but no locktite on it.
Found some swarf in the sump too, Outhers have also.
Cleaned parts and had a close look at the chain, not good, check the pics,

gollwa.blackwood.motor 175.jpggollwa.blackwood.motor 177.jpggollwa.blackwood.motor 170.jpggollwa.blackwood.motor 169.jpggollwa.blackwood.motor 172.jpg
Looking ay the chain I think it was only a matter of time.
Picked up VRS kit and new head bolts, orderd the rest.(Romsey Land Rover Service Centre).

Cheers.

thats pinging my big caution alarm, cant put my finger on why... (other than bad things have happened.)

delving into books, the chain should never have gotten that bad in the first place.

check the tensioners and the security of the timing gears that the chains run on.

I've seen this on another motor the gears had shifted, over tensioned the chain and where the chain was trying to "climb" up the gears all the side links had fractures in them.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

thats pinging my big caution alarm, cant put my finger on why... (other than bad things have happened.)

delving into books, the chain should never have gotten that bad in the first place.

Don't know if this helps,
Haynes manual... 15p - 19p motors use a thicker timing chain (and guides with a tensioner to suit).
Apparently they have thicker links.
They can be retrofitted.

I think this must have been among the first sold?
Makes you wonder if it's commen on the early ones (10p- 14p).

Ray's looking into it Monday.(Hadn't herd of it or any bracking).

Thanks again and cheers

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

check the tensioners and the security of the timing gears that the chains run on.

I've seen this on another motor the gears had shifted, over tensioned the chain and where the chain was trying to "climb" up the gears all the side links had fractures in them.

All tight Dave.
But 20 months ago I broke the sepentine belt and had to change the crank shaft pulley.
Was tight when removed, It took about 3 goes to get it tight though.
Kept coming loose while driving. 339ft/lbs nearly imposible.
Maybe started then??

Cheers

wouldnt have thought so.

from memory the engine that I got to see that had had the chain snap was old old school and had a 3rd gear as the tensioner (manually adjusted).

metal filings were all through the sump and the chain looked similar to yours once we'd unwound it from the crank gear.

yours will be about the second maybe third timing chain (****edit***) That Ive ever seen (***endedit***) thats let go where there hasnt been a blindingly obvious reason for it (like say a socket that was left in the timing case getting caught up in the works or the camgear retaining bolt shearing off and the head of it doing the same thing)

The chains with thicker links (but thinner sprockets to run on) were implemented for the higher injector pressures used on the EU3 engines. This suggest to me that the EU2 chains may have been barely strong enough.

Is there any possibility that the engine has had later injectors or complete head installed without the later timing chain and sprockets?

Edit: Just injectors wouldn't do it, as the camshaft and followers need to be changed too to get the higher pressures.

Originally Posted by Graeme

The chains with thicker links (but thinner sprockets to run on) were implemented for the higher injector pressures used on the EU3 engines. This suggest to me that the EU2 chains may have been barely strong enough.

Is there any possibility that the engine has had later injectors or complete head installed without the later timing chain and sprockets?

Edit: Just injectors wouldn't do it, as the camshaft and followers need to be changed too to get the higher pressures.

Intresting.
I don't think the head has been off as it still had plastic dowels.
Any thing is possible though.
Is there a simple way to check? Injector nos. maybe?

Thanks, cheers