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Thread: Brakes and the four Amigo's

  1. #1
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    Brakes and the four Amigo's

    G'day Guys, couple off questions.
    I have what seems like the four Amigo's, TC, Hill decent, ABS and Brake warning.
    This is on a 2003 model, a little different in the dash to the earlier models I believe.
    Now I pulled all the wheels off and checked the brake pads and disc's, all seems fine.
    Only anomaly is the rear pads are looking like they will be due for replacement soon, approx 2mm of material left.
    So is it possible that this could cause my four amigo's?
    Or is it more likely that I have a failed wheel sensor?
    At first I was having only the TC, ABS and Brake warning and they would come a go, then recently the Hill Decent ! light came on and now they all stay on.
    With a deliberate effort, I can lock the left front wheel under brakes, I never could before.
    So the other question is, do I need a Nanocom to change and bleed the brake fluid?
    Cheers Lionel.

  2. #2
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Gold_TD5 View Post
    Only anomaly is the rear pads are looking like they will be due for replacement soon, approx 2mm of material left.
    So is it possible that this could cause my four amigo's?
    Lionel.
    Dunno ... Lionel
    But at a guess ... 2mm of pads means change em now ... not later

  3. #3
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    Hi Lionel. Some brake pads have a "low" warning circuit built into them. (wires on the pads themselves, which may be causing your brake warning light) I do not know if your model has them.
    Id check these first. With 2mm remaining I would fling these now.

    Make sure you check out the Good Oil.

    Wheel sensors failing are not uncommon, but the amigos can be caused by a number of things so dont jump to any conclusions just yet deal with what you know first I.E pads. You can also check your 2 earth points for the ABS which ar located behind the L/H headlight, in the engine compartment between the air filter box. There is a futher earth point in the passenger side footwell undewr the dash. (unlikely unless the car has been wet, but maybe worth checking) At least these are things you can do yourself before needing Testbook/ Nanocom etc.

    You dont need a Nanocom to bleed if you have not intoduced air into the system.

    Make sure you keep the master cylinder level topped up. Dot 4 fluid minimum.

    As an aside your resevoir is also used for the clutch, with a higher inlet point than the brake master. My youngest son who was assisting the bleeding. happened to put foot on clutch while the reservoir was low and introduced air into that system so had to do some extra bleeding.

    cheers

  4. #4
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    Been pretty busy latley with another project but I will be replacing the pads asap.
    If buy chance I sort the problem out by replacing the pads, will the lights go out or do I need a Nanocom to reset that field in the computer?
    Cheers Lionel

  5. #5
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    Maybe...... Some have had the lights go away with the fault fix, Some have had success by disconnecting the abs module and battery overnight, while some need to clear faults via Nanocom etc.

    It really depends on the cause of the fault.

    Check out http://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic...equipment.html http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/3...3-amigoes.html

    Someone with diagnostic equipment may be near you and bring some absolute clarity to issue.

    I have just looked at my RAVE CD and the "Low"pad circuit does not appear to be fitted any model D2
    Info on the brake warning light suggests low fluid or handbreake switch is on.
    hope this helps

  6. #6
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    I was also thinking along those lines, that if the rear pistons were getting extended due to the pads needing replacement, that maybe this could cause low fluid.
    I did check the brake fluid, it did not seem to be to low but I will put a new set of pads in this weekend and eliminate one possible cause.
    I will post up results as soon as I have them.
    Cheers Lionel

  7. #7
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    Replaced rear pads, no difference, all lights still on. Checked the earth points for the ABS, all good.
    Tried the reset, IE; open the door, closed the door, pull the key, start the car, count to 60. and so on. As per the instructions in another thread.
    Next thing I'm going to do, is replace the front rotors and pads. Although the pads are fine and would go another 6 months, the rotors are a bit sad and have fair size lip on the edge, just want to start a fresh before I get to carried away.
    Where would I find the handbrake switch, I will check that when I get a chance.
    Cheers Lionel.

  8. #8
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    You will find the Handbrake switch under the Handle mechanism.
    You may be able to fit multimeter or test lamp probes into the hole after removing the power window switch panel, but I would likely take the centre console out.

    Sounds like Nanocom or testbook might be next.

    Cheers

  9. #9
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    I was thinking along those lines, had look from underneath yesterday to make sure there was no external switch exposed to the elements. It seems the brake and ABS light are on all the time, then the TC and hill decent warning come on and go off when the ignition turned on, then when the car starts they come back on and stay on, which leads me to think that firstly that there is a brake issue and second that maybe there is a crook wheel sensor.
    I will do the new pads and disc's in the front, then entice one of our kind members to do a fault check with a nanocom and see what we can come up with.
    As the brakes work fine, I'm not overly concerned, unless someone chips in and says that the four lights are the prelude to catastrophic failure, I will eliminate one thing at a time.
    Cheers Lionel

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