Thread: "Power Bleeding" Brakes Using Nanocom.

I'm about to try this. Cant find a good step by step description though.

From Nanocom web pages,

Power Bleed.
This function allows to perform bleeding of the main circuit. It activates the pump for a few seconds and you must repeat the function until the oil reaches the brake. The same work can be done by pushing the brake pedal.

Modulator Bleed
Modulator bleed must be preformed with pipes closed, pushing the pedal with maximum strength during the function. Once function is preformed, release the pedal and repeat until the pedal stroke is normal.

It also has a test procedure for after, on each wheel. This got rid of the three Amigos.

thanks mate, will gives this ago.....

Ben.....

I have just replaced the master cylinder on a D2 td5, 1999.
The ABS now works like never before, it probably never worked right in the 3 years and 50,000km that I have owned the vehicle and I NEVER saw the 3 lights. Ever. No faults shown in Nanocom.
Prior to this work, the modulator made a harsh ticking/rattling sound if activated and the pedal kicked back noticeably.
After changing the master cyl (new TRW), I removed the ABS relay and fitted a switch on a long 2 core flex (thanks Graeme on the recent ABS thread elsewhere), filled the reservoir and opened all nipples (PTFE tape on threaded portion to stop air sucking in, clear hose into bottle on each wheel) and began powering the ABS pump. The harsh sound happened for about 30 seconds then went real quiet. I thought the modulator had self-destructed, but no. It still pumped, just much quieter and smoother. Something inside the modulator has unstuck and now seems normal.
When the air from the cylinder had emerged I tried the pedal. OK but sunk dangerously low with engine running. So I kept bleeding. I replaced the relay and followed the 'modulator bleed' hints in the Nanocom instructions (pipes shut, push pedal as hard as possible). Initially the pedal reacted strongly and the modulator rattled. After this I bled each wheel manually. Air was expelled on each calliper but only small bubbles. The pedal firmed up slightly.
I repeated this at least 20 times. Over time, the modulator operation quietened right down and the pedal kickback almost vanished. I continued to get air out until the pedal felt normal. The air was in extremely small bubbles, like 1/4 pinhead, and hard to see without shining a work light thru the fluid. By this point SWMBO had a sore leg and it was getting very dark. Chances are there is still some air in the system.
This all took 4 hours and I have 4.5litres of waste brakefluid. The pedal feels much better and the ABS pulls the car up amazingly well. I cant wait to get down to Goolwa beach to try the TC next weekend.
I hope this helps.

Jason M.

Even now in 2017 this information is gold to me. Bloody brilliant. I have to do a bit of work on my defender td5's brakes and thinking a nanocom will come in handy in general as well.

Also, Resection, I suspected with that username you were a surveyor like myself, I had a look at your info and yep!

Cheers!
JD

I'm digging up this old discussion to ask this.

Originally Posted by Zute

It also has a test procedure for after, on each wheel.

What do the test procedures on the Nanocom actually do? How does one know if the test 'passed'?

I tried the test thing with my Nanocom but it only worked for a very short time on each wheel and I couldn't see how it achieved much.

IMHO it is to test whether the sensor at each wheel is working.

I always pressure bleed my brakes one at a time until new fluid comes out and have found that this seems to also bleed the ABS pump.

I find that a steep downhill run with hill descent seems to exercise and harden up my pedal every now and then although I always have a good hard pedal.
Regards PhilipA.

Just seen this

Originally Posted by twr7cx

I'm digging up this old discussion to ask this.



What do the test procedures on the Nanocom actually do? How does one know if the test 'passed'?

The tests are so called "Outputs" for nanocom which on other tools is named "Circuit tests":

WABCO SLABS - Diagnostic Capabilities (Outputs)
This is a choice of outputs that can be tested. Each output has an ON and OFF choice. Click on
the ON link to start the test and on OFF to end.
· Front Right Inlet Valve:
· Front Right Outlet Valve:
· Front Left Inlet Valve:
· Front Left Outlet Valve:
· Rear Right Inlet Valve:
· Rear Right Outlet Valve:
· Rear Left Inlet Valve:
· Rear Left Outlet Valve:
· SLS Left Valve:
· SLS Right Valve:
· SLS Exhaust Valve:
· ABS Pump Relay:
· Speedometer:
· SLS Compressor:
· SLS Buzzer:
· T.C Lamp:
· ABS Warning Lamp:
· HDC Warning Lamp:
· Brake Warning lamp:
· SLS Lamp:
· Off road Lamp:
· HDC Fault Lamp:
· HDC Brake Lamp:

For each of those circuits you'll know if it passed the test if you hear the valve clicking, the pump/compressor kicking in or the warning lamps/sounds coming on when you click ON as nanocom sends a short test signal to activate the selected part that's all (somehow similar like when you test the injectors)

My car has always had a low pedal on first stroke. Had it looked at by a local indie, who said it's "normal" and his car was the same. Maybe caused by a little excessive runout of the disk/bearing. I was never quite satisfied by that answer but then the car went off the road for quite a few years. I'm getting it ready for reregistration, and decided I need to bleed the breaks as the fluid is quite old.

I decided to look on here and unearthed this thread, which is quite helpful.

As a prelim I used the Nanocom to bleed the modulator. Well, it was quite noisy at first but settled down. Pedal became firmer after maybe three goes. Then did the individual wheel tests, also with more noise at first, and it improved even more. So, it's off to get some fluid and finish the job... for now. I reckon a little further work will be a good idea. I'll see what the fluid looks like.

I sometimes use a steep dirt hill near here to cycle the HDC. That helps for a while as well, and I reckon it might be wise in any case to cycle the ABS which rarely is needed, and to keep the H/L stuff moving.

Thanks, SF, for that list of function.