No sump gasket on a 300 TDi?

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Originally Posted by Jock The Rock

No worries I'll order some next week

Is it just a matter of dropping the sump and pulling the last main to get to them?

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No you have to remove the rear main seal to remove the rear main bearing cap, so it either engine or gear box out.

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Originally Posted by woko

No you have to remove the rear main seal to remove the rear main bearing cap, so it either engine or gear box out.

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Bugger just had the gearbox out for a clutch replacement

Might leave it, after further examination most of the oil seemed to be coming from 2 slightly lose bolts on the oil filter housing and a loose crankcase breather pipe

I'll have to check it again but doesn't look to bad, so it can wait :p

I dissent - provided the defender 300tdi doesn't have any extra bits over the disco 300tdi - you can drop the last main bearing cap and replace t-seals with only removal of sump. ( Smearing a decent amount of silicon on face of cap that joins with main seal housing is a good idea )

I confirm what Langy says. Sump off only to get to the t-seals.

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Originally Posted by langy

I dissent - provided the defender 300tdi doesn't have any extra bits over the disco 300tdi - you can drop the last main bearing cap and replace t-seals with only removal of sump. ( Smearing a decent amount of silicon on face of cap that joins with main seal housing is a good idea )

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Never done it that way. Have you ever had the seal housing leak after repair?
This would only be if the rear main seal was the newest version without the gasket.

I did my Dicso a year ago, had some residue drip out for a day or so then it was fine. just do as Langy suggests.

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Originally Posted by Jock The Rock

Will that Threebond 1215 do that trick? I'm told its supposed to be fairly good

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Threebond 1215 is magic stuff, its pretty much the go-to silicone at work, was put onto it by one of the mechanics who swore by it and we've been using it since then

No worries thanks for all the replies

I'll drop the sump next service and see what I can do

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Originally Posted by Sprint

Threebond 1215 is magic stuff, its pretty much the go-to silicone at work, was put onto it by one of the mechanics who swore by it and we've been using it since then

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Yeh someone recommended it to us at work as well. We have had a lot of trouble with the latest Cummins QSL9s (8.3L) and leaking sumps. Seems the block isn't strong enough and flexs when working hard. We made a few mods and added plenty of Threebond and that particular machine hasn't started to leak again yet. It's had the engine out and sump off 3 times in 4000 hours :o

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Originally Posted by Jock The Rock

No worries thanks for all the replies

I'll drop the sump next service and see what I can do



Yeh someone recommended it to us at work as well. We have had a lot of trouble with the latest Cummins QSL9s (8.3L) and leaking sumps. Seems the block isn't strong enough and flexs when working hard. We made a few mods and added plenty of Threebond and that particular machine hasn't started to leak again yet. It's had the engine out and sump off 3 times in 4000 hours :o

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Sounds more like operator abuse to me:(, I reckon you'd see a fair bit of thrashed gear out where you are Jock....:(

JC

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Originally Posted by justinc

Sounds more like operator abuse to me:(, I reckon you'd see a fair bit of thrashed gear out where you are Jock....:(

JC

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Surprisingly not :p

Ever since I started there, every Cummins 8.3 I have ever worked on has had the same problem. The manufacturers are just beginning to pick up on it and offer extended warrantys etc

Although saying that there are a few operators who aren't to flash :(