Thread: No sump gasket on a 300 TDi?

Yep. When I first got my tdi disco, I used a sump gasket for a 4 cyl series ( after all the 300 tdi is a development of that block) but it didn't last more than 6mths before it started to leak. (Even with silicone during assembly).

Then, having obtained and read the RAVE, took the gasket off, stripped the mating faces surgically clean ( used thinners to finish the job) and tried silastic 732, letting the bead cure for 10mins before assembly.

Not a leak from the joint in years, and that's with some heavy use.

732 is generally found in bearing shops ( $12 a tube), but go for the Dow corning stuff because I've tried the supercheap versions costing the same and found they aren't as oil resistant as the 732.

Correct, no gasket. Use a quality sealant like Wurth 250 or permatex ultra blue or anything suitable as oil resistant.

JC

Was just about to do mine this weekend

Lucky I looked here, as I have just bought myself a gasket

Will that Threebond 1215 do that trick? I'm told its supposed to be fairly good

And also from looking it's just a matter of wizzing the bolts out, bolting it back on. (After cleaning and resealing) No need to take anything else off? ie. timing cover etc

Removing the sump with the original factory sealant is extremely difficult, the bond is so strong.The manual suggest working a sharp blade instrument around the block/sump interface, but I couldn't even get the blade started, and with all the bits and bobs in the way couldn't have cut all the way around anyway. I resorted to warming up the sump flange with an oxy acetelyne torch to kill the bond.
Wagoo.

The Genuine LR sealant is locktite 5900

While you have the sump off, make sure the "T" seals are not leaking. [from memory, that's what the're called.] They are on the side of the rear main bearing cap. The rear main seal usually gets blamed when they go. I find an indication that they are leaking is oil dripping from the rear of the motor, like a rear seal, but generally not much oil thrown around by the flywheel. I think they go over time. Mine were done under warranty & I have just done them again after 200.000kms.

Originally Posted by Mikems

While you have the sump off, make sure the "T" seals are not leaking. [from memory, that's what the're called.] They are on the side of the rear main bearing cap. The rear main seal usually gets blamed when they go. I find an indication that they are leaking is oil dripping from the rear of the motor, like a rear seal, but generally not much oil thrown around by the flywheel. I think they go over time. Mine were done under warranty & I have just done them again after 200.000kms.

Arrrgh

Just read this and planned on doing the sump tomorrow

Looks like it will wait another 5000km then

The leak appears to be coming from the rear of the sump, but not dripping from the clutch drain. Can't be a rear main as that and the clutch were just replaced

I'll give it another steam clean and degrease tomorrow and have a closer look

There are a few good threads on this forum about how to insert the new seals. I used thin paint scrapers to hold the seals in place while refitting the cap. Allow the seals to shrink back before trimming. I used ultrablue on the seals & sump pan.
Also, a set of big end bearings are about $25. Could be worth thinking about. Flexigauge [plastigauge] to ensure the crank is OK. My Disco had done 200,000km & I gauged the old bearings out of interest, they weren't too bad, but I replaced them.
When you get it back together don't worry if a couple of drips come out for a bit, mine did, it has stopped now. Good luck.
Michael.