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Thread: Oil Cooler Set Up on a Series Vehicle

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    Oil Cooler Set Up on a Series Vehicle

    Hi All,

    I am planning the fitting of a Oil Cooler to one of my Series III 2.25D. I was planning on getting a spin on oil filter adapter like this:

    Famous Four - Part Information for FF005156

    Though maybe not that exact one as it is a little pricey (Rocky mountain also make one), then with the use of a spin on oil cooler plate like this (with built in thermostat):

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

    connected via flex hosing to the standard series oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator.

    Or a remote thermostat like this:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OIL-COOLER-THE...item1c17ebc73a

    and a standard spin on oil cooler plate and flexi pipes like this:


    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-RANGE-ROV...item1c1757a7c9

    One of my questions is do you run a 5/8" BSP pipe to/from the cooler or a 1/2" BSP pipe? and what is the thread of the oil cooler adapter, Part #232141 - OIL PIPE ADAPTER UNION?

    I just have to work out what size the oil filter thread is (either 3/4" UNF or 13/16"UNF)from the spin on adapter so I can obtain the correct oil cooler plate, and then decide on 5/8" BSP or 1/2" BSP for the piping.

    Second question where would be the best place to fit the oil temp transmitter in the system?

    Here is a sketch of the overall set up as I imagine it:

    PC160195.jpg

    What to people think? I thought that this method would be easier to fit and maintain? Any drawbacks over the Rover system where it returns into the sump? There is the price for starters, and making sure all the threads are the correct type, but with a little research this should be do-able.

    All suggestions welcome.

    James
    Last edited by Veryan; 17th December 2010 at 08:39 AM. Reason: New links as old ones did not work

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Without going through manuals, I think the Rover setup takes the oil that is bypassed by the pressure relief valve and returns it to the sump. If the adapter plate provides a connection direct to the sump, I can't see a problem. But I am not sure that this is the case, as I am not familiar with these adapters.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Ahh...so thats why in the manual it says remove the pressure relief valve from the oil pump and replace with one after the oil cooler. So the Rover set up would return pre-cooled oil to the sump only when the oil relief valve is triggered? (i am trying to uncover the mysteries of the Rover System - the manauls aren't that clear!)

    I think (please feel free to correct me here) that the sandwich adpaters and thermostat set up act like the thermostat on your standard water/gylcol cooling system, ie oil does not flow around the cooler until it reaches the set thermostat temp, e.g 80*C.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Veryan View Post
    Ahh...so thats why in the manual it says remove the pressure relief valve from the oil pump and replace with one after the oil cooler. So the Rover set up would return pre-cooled oil to the sump only when the oil relief valve is triggered? (i am trying to uncover the mysteries of the Rover System - the manauls aren't that clear!)

    I think (please feel free to correct me here) that the sandwich adpaters and thermostat set up act like the thermostat on your standard water/gylcol cooling system, ie oil does not flow around the cooler until it reaches the set thermostat temp, e.g 80*C.
    Looking at the parts book, there is no thermostat in the Rover system, simply takes the bypassed oil through the cooler regardless, so I am not sure why you need one. For that matter, I wonder why you need an oil cooler? They are generally only required for stationary use, such as with army FFR ones where the engine is used for battery charging, or for PTO use. If taking bypass oil, note that all piping needs to be large enough diameter to provide minimal backpressure to avoid excessive pressure buildup with cold starts.

    John

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Does Perth traffic on a hot day count as stationary running?

    Well it was part theoretical exercise and part i link to tinker with things

    So the rover system takes the bypass oil, cools it and returns it to the sump, the 'sandwich plate' method takes all your oil, <80*C it goes into the engine >80*C via oil cooler to the engine.

    erm..which is best...???? I wish there was a confused smiley

    I think there should be - 1/2" BSP is a large pipe, it would go into the oil filter, through the sandwich plate, via the thermostat and back to the engine, through 1/2" piping. Can anyone confirm that this is ok?

    James

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    I seem to remember that for stationary applications the oil cooler was needed where you were using above 1500 rpm with a governor, or something like that. This would hardly apply in Perth traffic, even with an airconditioner fitted.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    yeah I guess Perth traffic does not count....!

    So the original rover set up then is best for a stationary set up, so your engine is drawing from an ~6L supply of constantly cooled oil?

    Whereas a thermostat set up, with sandwich adapter would be best for scenarios where you would occasionally need to cool the oil (e.g. periods of long running?), but not always, so long as you can maintain suffient oil flow to the engine under normal temperatures?

    Sorry, not meaning to be a pain in the butt here John!

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    I'm afraid that my experience is that while I have not run with oil temperature gauges, I have never encountered any situation where an oil cooler seemed to be either necessary or useful in a Series Landrover except for stationary use. And that includes using a 2.25 diesel heavily loaded in the Simpson in mid summer. Never any problem keeping it within normal coolant temperature range and normal oil pressure (fitted with coolant temperature and oil pressure gauge).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    I will fit a oil temp gauge and transmitter to establish firstly the temperature of the oil. Then I can consider what would be the best set up, if oil temp seems to be excessive. What would one call excessive? 90*C? I was told by a good mechanic friend of mine, that if coolant temp (both oil and water) start getting >95*C he'd be thinking its cup of tea time! Boiling water (and oil) aint that cool!

    I know that oil is a important - it lubricates and also helps remove heat or should i say oil helps disipate the heat. I found this out when my oil pressure relief valve got stuck in the open position - not enough oil pressure was the givaway, but also the coolant temp went up by ~10*C.

    Would the best place then to fit a oil temp sender be? The t-piece that has the oil pressure switch and oil pressure transmitted? Or somewhere else?

    I wanted to find out which would be the best setup, if i chose to fit a oil cooler system, and the pros and cons of each set up, and if any one had fitted such set ups and what were there experiences. did it work? was it worth it? make any difference? Longer engine life, less stress?

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    I can't think immediately of a suitable place for an oil temperature probe - the problem with using the oil pressure point is that the oil is not circulating past it - hence the temperature is not indicative of the temperature of the oil. Also has air going past it, which may be either a lot hotter or a lot cooler (usually cooler in conditions where an oil cooler is indicated). Probably the best spot to do a trial would be to replace the sump drain plug with a suitable adapter, but this would be very vulnerable in any offroad situation.

    I am reminded many years ago I discussed with my mechanic fitting an oil temperature guage to the Auster aeroplane I had. He said he had done this before, but owners asked to have them removed, as the readings frightened them.

    As to what temperature the oil should be kept at - check with oil suppliers as to the maximum recommended temperature for the oil you are using - within this limit, I suggest that if oil pressure is maintained, there is no problem, as the oil is unaffected by the heat, and there is no loss of lubrication. Subject to these limitations, I would expect the thinner, hotter oil will provide better lubrication. It needs to be remembered that this is a very low stressed engine, and it is very unlikely that there will be local hot spots that rely on oil cooling. With a far greater sump capacity than most similar sized engines, the sump constitutes quite an effective oil cooler except when developing substantial power while stationary.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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