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Thread: 3.9 V8 Waterpump

  1. #1
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    3.9 V8 Waterpump

    While I had the front of the Rangie in pieces replacing the oil cooler lines and the o ring in the side of the oil pump I decided to change the water pump as well.

    It has been on my to do list for a few months now and this seemed like the best time to do it.

    I had the replacement water pump already. I removed it from a Disco I am pulling apart. It was replaced just before the Disco came off the road.

    The pump on my engine was apparently not very old either, but it had always made a squealing noise at idle.

    This is the difference between the two when I put them side by side.
    The one I fitted to my engine is the one with the cast impellor (left one in pic). The one I took off had the pressed tin impellor.

    I don't know if I will notice any difference, but in my experience cast impellors are vastly superior.


  2. #2
    lokka Guest
    I just replaced the water pump on my 3.9 in the disco the one that was on there that had a bearing colapse was the type with the cast impeller .

    I replaced it with a genuine land rover item from a rover specialist the new one come with a pressed steel impeller .

    The only grumble i have is the price i was charged $325 for just the pump ive now found through my usual supplyers that the same part can be purchased for $140 so im not verry happy and will be contacting the so call specialist as why his price was more than double anywere else

  3. #3
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    My defender has the pressed metal impellor model and it is 12 years old and working fine,IMHO flushing and refilling with fresh coolant every 12 months goes along way to keeping the cooling system componants healthy. Pat

  4. #4
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Is the cheaper pump a genuine item? I've been through three pumps (plus the original pump) in 8 years and 120,000km. My current pump is, I hope genuine.

    All had pressed impellers.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  5. #5
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    Jon ... Do me a favour ... When you put the radiator hose back on the pump ... give all of that metal connection area a coating of that black goo called "Hollimar3" .... The reason for all that corrosion is because it is a damp area where air can get to the metal and that is why it corrodes

    The theory is, coat the metal that is to be fitted into the hose, and this will give it a "tar like coating" that will stop moisture & air making contact with the metal


    Can't hurt ... let me know the results when you pull it back off in a years time


    Mike

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Is the cheaper pump a genuine item? I've been through three pumps (plus the original pump) in 8 years and 120,000km. My current pump is, I hope genuine.

    All had pressed impellers.
    I don't know...

    The pressed impellor pump came with the 3.9 I fitted (ex Clarkie) and the cast impellor pump came with the Disco I am wrecking.

  7. #7
    lokka Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Is the cheaper pump a genuine item? I've been through three pumps (plus the original pump) in 8 years and 120,000km. My current pump is, I hope genuine.

    All had pressed impellers.
    What part of the pump's are failing as as that many in 8 years seems to be odd .

    The most common problems are either the bearing or the seal on the bearing packing it in tho i have seen the impellers either corrode away or fall off ..

    As for pricing i was quoted $275 for a non genuine and $325 for the genuine items tho id like to know the difference between them as i got the so called genuine one and it has no markings or LR stamps all it has is a sticker with the part no on it .

  8. #8
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Two were leaking seals. One had catastrophic bearing failure that destroyed the fan as well - and that was only after about 2 years or so of use.

    I'd say that one was aftermarket but not Grade A aftermarket as it was not bought from an LR dealer.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Jon ... Do me a favour ... When you put the radiator hose back on the pump ... give all of that metal connection area a coating of that black goo called "Hollimar3" .... The reason for all that corrosion is because it is a damp area where air can get to the metal and that is why it corrodes

    The theory is, coat the metal that is to be fitted into the hose, and this will give it a "tar like coating" that will stop moisture & air making contact with the metal


    Can't hurt ... let me know the results when you pull it back off in a years time


    Mike
    Pump was fitted months ago.... (First post was September last year)
    I am not pulling it apart again just yet, although I am considering replacing the timing cover gasket and resealing the sump to try to rectify the massive oil leaks this engine has .
    If I do that I will check on corrosion at the bottom hose connection.

  10. #10
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    Pump was fitted months ago.... (First post was September last year)
    I am not pulling it apart again just yet,
    Try the coating with the "Hollimar 3" @ the Top radiator hose connection to the thermostat housing ....

    Mike

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