Thread: This Noob has a threaded bolt head on EGR exhaust

If you are happy to possibly sacrifice a hex key, go up a size to 6mm or maybe even 7mm, and hammer it in the rounded hole. It will create its own splines when you hammer it. You could even bevel the edge of the hex key slightly prior to hammering.

Pretty rough and I admit its a real "farmer" solution, but it has worked for me a few times.

BTW - welcome to the forum, and your wife sounds like a top chick if she has her own dremel

a torqz bit which is over size hammered in is your first bet.

If you preheat the housing with a small blow torch (propane not oxy) it may also come loose.

you can also just get to the top one with a small pair of vice grips so try putting in the allen key (try an imperial as it may be just slightly bigger enough to be hammered in)the clamp it with the vice grips and then turn both at once.

you can purchase whats essentially a short length easy out for the allen socket screws but I havent had much sucess with them.

If you're near ipswich Im happy to lend a hand. (edit jsut checked your profile, ACT is a bit far)

Welcome, Im in the ACT (south ).

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

a torqz bit which is over size hammered in is your first bet.

If you preheat the housing with a small blow torch (propane not oxy) it may also come loose.

you can also just get to the top one with a small pair of vice grips so try putting in the allen key (try an imperial as it may be just slightly bigger enough to be hammered in)the clamp it with the vice grips and then turn both at once.

you can purchase whats essentially a short length easy out for the allen socket screws but I havent had much sucess with them.

If you're near ipswich Im happy to lend a hand. (edit jsut checked your profile, ACT is a bit far)

Just a normal "easy-out" should do the trick,, we get quite a few like this at work,,
Try giving it a tap with a hammer/punch first, this might help if its siezed a bit, making it not so hard to undo,, (dont use too big a hammer though,,)

Try a good spray with Chemsearch "Yield", an industrial product sold usually by engineer's suppliers.The use of conventional easy-outs is fraught with peril. They are tapered and often will wedge the fastener tighter into the hole as the taper screws in. If you break one off in the fastener then it is you and not the fastener that is screwed. I am not familiar with the installation. Can you get to it with a hand held battery drill? If so, try using a left hand helix drill bit in a battery drill turning in reverse. This will often wind a stuck threaded fastener out of the hole under the thrust of a drill bit's cutting action.

Originally Posted by Disco Boy

Second, as a pointer, if I am aiming a mild to moderate chip (140 ?) then will a D2a intercooler be sufficient, or do I need a much more expensive after-market one.
Thx
James
Who loves his disco
(and usually the rest of my family)

@ 140kw you will have to watch the torque figures as the auto will sense too many NM and go into limp mode. I think it's around 380nm but some will be able to confirm that for you.

As your Disco is an early one it will have a non-flashable ECU this means it is not a simple plug and play upgrade, Mike from TRT is the man to talk to about ECU upgrade and he sometimes has exchange ECU's so you can upgrade to a flashable ECU. I'm also led to believe the flashable ECU also gives a nicer delivery of power.

*TRT - Total Rover Tech*

As for the D2a intercooler I think it would be fine and would be good modification. I'm running one of Mike’s I/C on my defender but its manual and putting out a stupid amount of power.



Ben….

sorry to hear mate! sucks to get stuck on a bolt!
I used a screw extractor the other day - and it worked a treat... just a little awkward to get in there.
but I would probably try the bigger key option first - if you're confident that the bolt isnt rusted in or too tight, should be fine! (could always soak it in some lube oil just to be safe...)
good luck!