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Thread: Does this look like the right stuff? (EGT)

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by dullbird View Post
    so would that be advancing the timing on the injector pump? I wouldn't have a clue ow to advance timing neither would Ian.....

    just can't afford to put the car in the garage at the moment just for a tickle
    The adjustment is in the pulley connected to the pump shaft that the timing belt drives. The pulley hub has locking screws that are loosened to allow the pulley to be rotated to set the timing. There is a small cover in line with the pump, on front of the timing belt cover. Remove the small cover to get at the lock screws - but space is tight there.

    You need a special adapter and a dial indicator gauge. The adapter screws into the distributor head of the pump so the dial indicator can measure the position of the pump plunger.

    It is best left to someone who has the adapter and experience.

    The automatic timing advance that Dave was talking about is in the lower section of the injection pump. This is something else again to advance the timing automatically when engine revs (actually pump revs) increase. It is hydraulically operated by pressure from a vane pump in the front section of the injection pump.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by dullbird View Post
    Hi John as always your posts are sooo informative....

    Only one small issue, we wouldn't be confident enough I don't feel to play with something like this...this is why I got the garage to do it in the first place.

    I don't know whether it would be considered rude...especially as I asked them to tickle the pump..due to the feeling of lack of performance after a timing belt change, that I can then go back and suggest that he has adjusted my pump totally wrong..

    The guy that did it is a great guy and knows his stuff when it comes to landrovers (he said he has done a few pumps for people and they have been really happy) but that could mean anything I guess......but I do trust his advice and things he has done as he has worked my car from the day I owned it..well when I say worked done the bigger jobs that we have been unable to tackle due to tools or time or knowledge

    When I told him what was happening he said to bring it back and he will take another look...

    maybe I can approach it then

    I actually asked Ian yesterday as soon as we have 5 mins to pull the intercooler out and clean and inspect hoses while we are at it.......we were going to do it today and then forgot after spending a rediculous time at bob janes this morning...then I got home and started packing and I just totally forgot. (try and get it done tomorrow after we drop the trailer and things off down at picton).

    at least then I can eliminate that
    Really he has not necessarily adjusted it wrong.

    The problem is that the only way to know if the maximum fuel rate is too high/low, is to put the maximum load on the engine.

    This can be done with a dyno, but if you don't have a dyno, then you have to suck it and see. You need to put a load on the vehicle on the steepest hill you can find.

    That hill in the mountains for example. Ideally adjust it at the bottom of the hill, then drive up it and measure the exhaust gas temp.

    Then if EGT is below acceptable max. increase fuel some more and repeat test. If EGT is too high, reduce fuel.

    This adjustment is simple and only requires a flat blade screwdriver and EGT gauge. Will take 1 or 2 minutes max. each time to make the adjustment (not including time for testing).

    Your mechanic would probably have limited ability to put the maximum load on your engine (I'm assuming he doesn't have a dyno).

    Once the maximum fuel is set correctly, so egt does not go too high, then carry out the other adjustments.

    I can tell you how to do this yourself - or read Ian's instructions.

    Since it is only a problem when you climb that hill, there is no need to do it now. Wait until the EGT gauge is installed.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bush65 View Post
    Really he has not necessarily adjusted it wrong.

    The problem is that the only way to know if the maximum fuel rate is too high/low, is to put the maximum load on the engine.

    This can be done with a dyno, but if you don't have a dyno, then you have to suck it and see. You need to put a load on the vehicle on the steepest hill you can find.

    That hill in the mountains for example. Ideally adjust it at the bottom of the hill, then drive up it and measure the exhaust gas temp.

    Then if EGT is below acceptable max. increase fuel some more and repeat test. If EGT is too high, reduce fuel.

    This adjustment is simple and only requires a flat blade screwdriver and EGT gauge. Will take 1 or 2 minutes max. each time to make the adjustment (not including time for testing).

    Your mechanic would probably have limited ability to put the maximum load on your engine (I'm assuming he doesn't have a dyno).

    Once the maximum fuel is set correctly, so egt does not go too high, then carry out the other adjustments.

    I can tell you how to do this yourself - or read Ian's instructions.

    Since it is only a problem when you climb that hill, there is no need to do it now. Wait until the EGT gauge is installed
    .
    Funny you should say that I literally about 10mins ago was talking to Ian about the pump while making a cuppa and I said to him then I'm not going to change anything until I get the gauge fitted..that way I have something as a comparison.

    Would it be really advisable to fit a boost gauge?....I never really wanted to before because they always look like something people take time to fit and then use for about 5 mins while making adjustment never to be looked at again....

    if its not to complicated and not to expensive I would consider fitting one...but as i'm not going out of my way to tamper with things i guess I want to know whether or not its worth it. All I want to do with the car is things to prevent the big bux rolling out of my pocket...

    I like to try and keep preventative maintenance up and the next two big things will be the head gasket and the gearbox I think so anything I can do to help prevent or catch things early I'm all for.

    and I will fit a low coolant alarm another one of those things I keep meaning to buy for the last year but never seem to get around too...that alone will be a statement i will live to regret no doubt until I pull my finger out
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  4. #44
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    yep boost gauges are worth their wieght if you're trying to milk the engine for economy..
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #45
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    Why you drive to boost?
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  6. #46
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    Boost gauge will tell you if that area is as it should be. They don't have to be fitted permanently, so you may be able to borrow one. I never found a suitable place for a boost gauge in my disco.

    The gauge can be Tee'd into the boost signal line between turbo and boost compensator on injection pump. Or there is a plug at the back of the inlet manifold - difficult to see because there is not much room between the manifold and firewall.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by dullbird View Post
    Why you drive to boost?
    yep, if time isnt an issue but fuel is keeping an eye on the boost gauge will help you keep the engine in the "sweet spot" coupled with an EGT and all the other things you can do to help it along you can get some pretty good fuel savings.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    yep boost gauges are worth their wieght if you're trying to milk the engine for economy..
    You could probably do similar with an EGT gauge - by driving to keep variation in temps small, i.e. not climbing rapidly.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    Auberins will have the longer probes made in about 10 days. They don't have a part no. as yet, but will email me the info once they have them.

    Steve
    They now have the longer probes in stock.

    EGT sensor with longer tip. [TC-KEGL] - $36.00 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

    Steve

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    Yes thanks steve me and the guy have actually kept in contact..he has put one aside for me as he now has run out of the blue gagues and is not getting them in until the end of the month...and I want to buy it all at the same time
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




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