Head Bolts Won't Shift

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Originally Posted by Traco

Anyway, just ordered a set of ARP head studs so there should be no more dramas in that department.

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Some, no rephrase that, all the worst heads I have ever removed have had studs as a retaining system. If they have been there a long time (like you desribed) they are nearly impossible to remove because they grow into the head, exspecially with different metals ie cast blocks, steel threads and alloy heads. I would retain the bolts.
cheers
blaze

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bblaze

Some, no rephrase that, all the worst heads I have ever removed have had studs as a retaining system. If they have been there a long time (like you desribed) they are nearly impossible to remove because they grow into the head, exspecially with different metals ie cast blocks, steel threads and alloy heads. I would retain the bolts.
cheers
blaze

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that is why you coat them with Loctite Nickel Anti-seize before installing them.

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Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

that is why you coat them with Loctite Nickel Anti-seize before installing them.

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But as a mechanic (past life) you would hope you never had to pull the same head twice, so not many mechanics coate with an anti seize. I used too but it was the engines that were years old and never had a head removed that were the worse. Air cooled like deuzt often worse because of the higher operating temps.
cheers
blaze

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bblaze

But as a mechanic (past life) you would hope you never had to pull the same head twice, so not many mechanics coate with an anti seize. I used too but it was the engines that were years old and never had a head removed that were the worse. Air cooled like deuzt often worse because of the higher operating temps.
cheers
blaze

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I served my apprenticeship as a fitter in a transport business in Western Qld. We always assumed that whatever we fixed would have to be fixed again ( and again, and again) due to the effects of heat, dust, western "roads", poor oils and basic filtration if any, and high mileage. Before anti-seize we used grease. Apprentices would have been chastised if they were noticed not to have used grease or anti-seize on wheel studs in particular.

Another option that sometimes works is trying to tighten the bolt up slightly, then try to undo it. Sometimes it's enough to get it started. It's a trick I use quite often with stubborn bolts and the rattle gun (eg - rotor to hub bolts).

Cheers
Chris