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Thread: Reluctant 2.25D

  1. #1
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    Reluctant 2.25D

    I've just changed my injector pump to a new one. Ever since the change, it's reluctant to start if I don't drive it every day.

    For example:
    I leave it more than 24 hours then go to start it.

    I'll glow it for up to 20 seconds, it'll huff-puff-huff-puff white smoke, clatter into life and then try to die. Usually it dies, then cranks over on the key but NO smoke comes out.
    I try to start it on the key with my foot flat to the floor.


    To get it to start, I'll have to leave it for 20 mins, then try again and it usually goes. It seems that after the initial start, the inj. pump is not letting more fuel into the engine because it thinks the engine has started so it can 'lean it off' again. (just my theory)

    Once the car is running and a bit warmer, it behaves all day and will restart warm quite happily.

    Is there something I can look at, or is this the latest way my old LR is manipulating me to drive it every day?

    yours in perplexion

    -Alastair

  2. #2
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    could be picking up some air or you're having fuel delivery problems to the pump.

    white smoke is usually a sign of low compression and you might find that your rings are nearly shot.

    IT doesnt rule out a sticking control component in the pump but Id suggest that unless theres something else contributing to it sticking (like fluctuating delivery pressure) that it would be more repeatable than you'r experiencing..

    What was it doing with the old pump and why did you change it?
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    To me it sounds like you have a slight air leak somewhere, and a very small amount of air is getting in when you leave it sit for a while.

    Next time you are going to start it, try bleeding the pump first, and see if there is any air there.

    I assume you are starting it with foot flat to the floor?

  4. #4
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    It blows white smoke on on cold startup - there's only a slight black haze going up hills when warm!

    My old pump seized - the little spiggot thing that drives it was snapped and the whole pump stopped dead. Not entirely sure why - NRMA say water in fuel, the LR mechanic says incorrectly plumbed diesel lines lead to long-term fuel starvation which eventually buggered it.
    Sorry for you though Blknight; the old pump's already been exchanged.

    In the meantime, I'll give the bleeding a try before I start it next time it sits idle for a while.

    anything else I can look at easily?

  5. #5
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    I actually ment what was the old pump doing that made you want to exchange it.

    when you try to start it again and it runs on then dies, immediately crack the 2 bleed nuts on the pump tweak the hand lift pump a few times and see what comes out. If you get immediate flow tighten them up crack the injector lines and crank it over see what comes out.

    If you're still running the original lift pump I have an idea.. (fozzy did the same thing for a while)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
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    Ok - will try that this weekend. Thanks for the tip.

    In the meantime - yes, it is running the original lift pump. What did Fozzy do and how did you fix it?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gromit68 View Post
    In the meantime - yes, it is running the original lift pump.
    I have a solenoid type lift pump mounted on the chassis in-line with the lift pump. The engine runs if the pump is on or off, however it makes it much easier to bleed/prime the pump, and if you run a tank dry the system will self bleed as long as you have enough momentum to roll for 100m with your foot flat to the floor in 4th.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gromit68 View Post
    Ok - will try that this weekend. Thanks for the tip.

    In the meantime - yes, it is running the original lift pump. What did Fozzy do and how did you fix it?
    fozzy had a pin***** leak in the lift pump that was admitting air

    at a medium idle it pumped more air than fuel and would cause it to starve

    at idle and between about 900-1500rpm it shifted more air than fuel

    IF you zapped it up to full speed it would go ok, and thats what gave me the clue, the bubbles going back to the tank in the return line
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gromit68 View Post
    Ok - will try that this weekend. Thanks for the tip.

    In the meantime - yes, it is running the original lift pump. What did Fozzy do and how did you fix it?
    Had a similar problem with a Mack I once owned, the anti-bleed back valve in the lift pump was faulty allowing fuel to drain back from the pump, causing a lack of fuel at startup, either replace the lift pump or the valves in the pump, Regards Frank.

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