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Thread: Steering problems

  1. #1
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    Steering problems

    Hey team, just a quick question i have a 2000 td5 130 and was just wondering what sort of steering box would i have in it? 6 bolt or 4 bolt?. it has 4 bolts onto the chassis then two bolts onto the drop arm so not sure if this makes it a 4 or 6 bolt unit?
    Seems this is the next thing to change on the road to tracking down why i get a steering wobble through the steering wheel when turning right at speeds above 20km/h. I have got all things looked at including the usual suspects like
    wheel bearings ( changed left and added new spacer)
    panhard rod bushes (changed bushs and bolts)
    swivel bearing preload ( checked and tightened)
    steering dampner ( took it off went for drive and is the same just worse)
    radius arm bushes ( getting em changed tomorrow before i by a new box)

    didn't think it could be the box because it doesn't do it at low speeds and only ( which is the weird bit) when turning right.

    Anyone see anything i may have missed??

    thanks fella's
    Cheers from the Desert
    Rexy
    2000 130 TD5
    Oil in the Harness, suspension knock, transmission clunk, engine oil leaks, exhaust manifold leaks, centrifugal oil filter stripped bolts, a/c leaks, door leaks, wouldn't trade it for the world

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by TREX View Post
    Hey team, just a quick question i have a 2000 td5 130 and was just wondering what sort of steering box would i have in it? 6 bolt or 4 bolt?. it has 4 bolts onto the chassis then two bolts onto the drop arm so not sure if this makes it a 4 or 6 bolt unit?
    Seems this is the next thing to change on the road to tracking down why i get a steering wobble through the steering wheel when turning right at speeds above 20km/h. I have got all things looked at including the usual suspects like
    wheel bearings ( changed left and added new spacer)
    panhard rod bushes (changed bushs and bolts)
    swivel bearing preload ( checked and tightened)
    steering dampner ( took it off went for drive and is the same just worse)
    radius arm bushes ( getting em changed tomorrow before i by a new box)

    didn't think it could be the box because it doesn't do it at low speeds and only ( which is the weird bit) when turning right.

    Anyone see anything i may have missed??

    thanks fella's

    Steering box will be a 4 bolt. The number is the amount of bolts on the top plate of the box. They all mount with 4 bolts to the rail.

    Seems like you have done the common stuff.

    Have you checked all the ball joints? incuding the one on the drop arm?

    Also damaged wheel or tyre maybe? at least get them balanced

    I would do the radius arm bushes and go from there.

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    To the other suggestions, add a faulty CV joint. A slight possibility could be one of the U-joints on the steering column develops free play at one position, which happens to be where it is on a typical right turn.

    Another possibility is a damaged or warped brake disc.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
    mike 90 RR Guest
    ... Also to add to the list ....
    You mentioned tightening up a swivel joint ... Did you check that the swivel bearings / bush are OK & not crushed??

    Pitman arm nut to steering box is loose
    There are 2 Tie rod joints on the RHS .... verses 1 on the LHS

    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    Steering box will be a 4 bolt. The number is the amount of bolts on the top plate of the box. They all mount with 4 bolts to the rail.

    Seems like you have done the common stuff.

    Have you checked all the ball joints? incuding the one on the drop arm?

    Also damaged wheel or tyre maybe? at least get them balanced

    I would do the radius arm bushes and go from there.
    Sorry yes i have checked all the ball joints and the drop arm they are all about only a year old, the tyres i swapped left to right but to no avail.
    Thanks for the info on the box price of a 4 bolt is much better than a six.
    Cheers from the Desert
    Rexy
    2000 130 TD5
    Oil in the Harness, suspension knock, transmission clunk, engine oil leaks, exhaust manifold leaks, centrifugal oil filter stripped bolts, a/c leaks, door leaks, wouldn't trade it for the world

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    To the other suggestions, add a faulty CV joint. A slight possibility could be one of the U-joints on the steering column develops free play at one position, which happens to be where it is on a typical right turn.

    Another possibility is a damaged or warped brake disc.

    John
    Got all the u joints checked last week, don't think anyone has looked at the brake disks though. would it be easy to see??? and would it only happen when i'm turning right??
    Cheers from the Desert
    Rexy
    2000 130 TD5
    Oil in the Harness, suspension knock, transmission clunk, engine oil leaks, exhaust manifold leaks, centrifugal oil filter stripped bolts, a/c leaks, door leaks, wouldn't trade it for the world

  7. #7
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by TREX View Post
    Got all the u joints checked last week, don't think anyone has looked at the brake disks though. would it be easy to see??? and would it only happen when i'm turning right??
    I am talking about the U-joints on the steering column, not the prop shafts - were they checked?

    A warped or damaged disc should be visible if you jack the wheel up and spin it looking from the inside as you do so. Another thought, is that it could be a loose brake caliper, although I would expect that to show up when braking. I assume it is not a loose wheel, as you have swapped wheels (have you tried swapping front to back? The problem from a wheel or tyre may show up regardless of which side it is on, although I would not expect it to be only when turning one way).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I am talking about the U-joints on the steering column, not the prop shafts - were they checked?

    A warped or damaged disc should be visible if you jack the wheel up and spin it looking from the inside as you do so. Another thought, is that it could be a loose brake caliper, although I would expect that to show up when braking. I assume it is not a loose wheel, as you have swapped wheels (have you tried swapping front to back? The problem from a wheel or tyre may show up regardless of which side it is on, although I would not expect it to be only when turning one way).

    John
    Just took the tyres off to have a look at the calipers, they are rock solid and the disks run true so no luck there, swapped the tyres back again whilst i had them off and took it for a spin, still the same can only get it to do it whilst turning right at speed, slow right turns and left turns are perfect no shimmy, pretty sure the steering colum uni's were looned at recently. i had a look whilst i had it on jacks and they seem pretty solid no movement in them laterally.

    Still looking.
    Cheers from the Desert
    Rexy
    2000 130 TD5
    Oil in the Harness, suspension knock, transmission clunk, engine oil leaks, exhaust manifold leaks, centrifugal oil filter stripped bolts, a/c leaks, door leaks, wouldn't trade it for the world

  9. #9
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    Thinking through the differences between turning right vs turning left...

    The main one I can think of is that the steering joints are being compressed when turning left and under tension when right. However, there will also be some differences in the weight distribution.

    I'd be tempted to have another look at the ball joints... Drop arm, etc... Also, jack up the wheels, check the bearings (wheel & swivel) and see how much movement there is.

    HTH

    M

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