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Thread: Steering box drop arm nut.

  1. #1
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    Steering box drop arm nut.

    I've recently found that the nut at the bottom of the steering box output shaft has been loose on both the Defender and the County. Both lock washers were turned over.

    I had the Defender steering box rebuilt a while back and can only assume it wasn't tightened enough. The PO told me the steering box had also been rebuilt in the recent past, so maybe a similar situation.

    Thing is, I've always heard that the drop arm nut was about the hardest thing to remove from a Land Rover, so it seems a little strange to find both loose.

    Anyone else noticed this?

  2. #2
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    The nut itself is easy to remove. It's removing the arm from the tapered spline that is hard.
    Scott

  3. #3
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    The one on my Rangie was loose when I bought the car. I tightened it up to "very tight indeed" and I haven't had any further problems.

    I certainly have seen it loose on numerous other Rovers, I believe it to be a common problem.

  4. #4
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    Had the pitman arm (with early integral ball joint) replaced by an LR specialist. Watched him do it.

    Couple of years later driving home from Adelaide (past all the black crosses on the side of the Duke HWY) was thinking 'must get around to replacing those panhard bushes' coz the steering was getting really sloppy.

    Couple of days later was greasing the TRE's and noticed the nut in question was only on the shaft by a couple of turns.

    Pitman arm was loose as well.

    Found out that if the arm comes loose it is likely to keep doing so. Some sort of Loctite product should be used to prevent this.

    Maybe a locknut would help just the nut from coming loose (or falling off )

    cheers, DL

  5. #5
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    Thanks. In both cases the drop arms were loose and floppy.

  6. #6
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    Couple of days later was greasing the TRE's and noticed the nut in question was only on the shaft by a couple of turns.
    They are supposed to have a lock plate like the wheel bearings.!!!If peened over correctly it is impossible for them to loosen unless the loosening is some crap in the spline coming out, and then the nut hasn't loosened , it's just that the drop arm has raised.
    I test drove an old 2 door once and the owner said " I don't drive it over 80Kmh as its dangerous"

    Huh? I had a look underneath and he had replaced the lower seal then tightened the nut and bent both tabs the same way and the nut was almost off. Got out my trusty socket and tightened it up, and bent the lock tabs in OPPOSITE directions.

    It was amazing (not) how much better the steering was.

    Regard sPhilip A

  7. #7
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    When you have it tight, its a good idea to thump the side of the drop arm a couple of times with a hammer. You will usually find you can get a bit more movement out of it when you swing on the socket.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by abaddonxi View Post
    Thanks. In both cases the drop arms were loose and floppy.
    Probably should go in the ' Good Oil ' when Dave posts the right Loctite to use on the arm and other prevention measures.

    It is a common prob.

    cheers, DL

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    They are supposed to have a lock plate like the wheel bearings.!!!If peened over correctly it is impossible for them to loosen unless the loosening is some crap in the spline coming out, and then the nut hasn't loosened , it's just that the drop arm has raised.
    Agree totally,

    The nut becomes 'loose' because the pitman arm has become loose on the steering shaft. Lock washer can be perfect in every respect.

    cheers, DL

  10. #10
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    The arm on my County would get a bit of slop in it after about 3 months no matter how hard I tightened the nut ( worn spline ). I used 5 minute araldite on the spline, then tightened the nut and bent the lock washer. 3 years later its still tight.

    5 minute araldite goes soft above 60 degree C, so its easy to get off in the future, if needed


    Bruce.

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