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Thread: Rear Main Seal insitu replacement?

  1. #1
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest

    Rear Main Seal insitu replacement?

    Whilst I have the flywheel off the V8 Disco, I decided to replace rear crank seal.
    I noticed there was a seep of oil coming out from the gaps of the rear main bearing cup holder. and around the "T" Seals, 1 was protruding and the other was nearly level with the face. I believe they should protrude slightly.

    1.Can these T seals be replace whilst the engine is in vehicle if I undo the sump bolts and lower the sup slightly?

    2. Is it worth also applying some sealer when replacing them?
    3. at the rear of the engine above the topmost welsh plug there are 2 grub screws, there is the slightest amount of oil seepage, what are those plugs
    for?
    I don't want to refit everything since I have come this far only to have a leak that will annoy me forever after

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    yes the seals can be replaced in situ, from memory like the 4 pots you have to drop the sump and lower the rear main bearing journal cap to do it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Having replaced the t-seals on my Tdi in situ, I can offer some fitting tips - provided that you haven't installed the rear main seal yet. I just had a look at the RAVE and the last cap is sufficiently similar in the way the t-seals are located.

    First off, I smeared some decent silicone ( 732 from Dow Corning) on both surfaces and the t-seals. Then, with a g-clamp and some bits of sheet metal I compressed the seals much like piston rings. The silicone aids in assembly (provided you assemble it quick) and you can tap the bearing cap back in position reasonably easy. Once it's torqued up and cured it should be good for a really long time.

    Probably need a twelve point socket and a decent bar to undo the cap and then torque it up right.

    Those grub screws are to fill in the boring holes. I'll leave it to someone who's had a v8 longer than I to suggest whether or not you should play with them.

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