Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19

Thread: Water injection, EGT's, AFR's and a Petrol V8.....

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Central Queensland
    Posts
    3,468
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Water injection, EGT's, AFR's and a Petrol V8.....

    kicked the idea around a lil on the weekend with a friend who is running water injection on his 7.3L turbodiesel F350, that it might be a good idea to trial a water injection setup on a naturally aspirated, fuel injected petrol V8....

    am i right in guessing what i'd need as a start would be adjustable water pressure and flow regulators, as well as EGT and AFR gauges?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Safety Bay
    Posts
    8,041
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You used to able to buy a factory water injection kit for the 2.25ltr but I don't know if it worked,it used a 50/50 water metho mix. Pat

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,500
    Total Downloaded
    0
    its not going to net you a lot of advantage on a standard rover donk on standard fuel.

    theres a couple of schools of thoughts as to when your supposed to use it and how.

    the first is the "raise the compression of the low compression engine" school

    and the second is the "lower the combustion temperature of the overcooked engine" school.

    unless your talking about spraying the intercooler which is something entirely differnt and not at all related to a NA engine.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Central Queensland
    Posts
    3,468
    Total Downloaded
    0
    in this case its a 302/5.0L Ford Windsor V8.....

    part of the theory we were kicking around is that with water injection and the resulting effects on intake air temp, combustion chamber temp, etc, you should be able to disable the EGR function and alter ignition timing , hopefully to a positive result in terms of power/economy

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,500
    Total Downloaded
    0
    why not just cheat the sensor or manually tweak it?
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Central Queensland
    Posts
    3,468
    Total Downloaded
    0
    cheat/tweak it in the sense of the el cheapo "chips" you get on EBAY? i think i'll pass on that one.... all it does is force more fuel in..... i can achieve a similar result by refitting the crappy tridon 80deg thermostat (or removing it altogether)

    the reason it was put forward is because people have been achieving some interesting results in the states with water injection on forced induction diesels, so there may be some benefit doing a similar thing with a NA petrol engine.....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,500
    Total Downloaded
    0
    in the diesels your working on the latter school, help cool the over cooked engine deal.

    what youre aiming at realistically is the former school where your trying to raise the compression ratio. to really get the gains from it you also need the fuel to deal with it.

    I would think that for the effort you're likely to go through more gains would be made by a port n polish with gasket matching on the intakes and cleaning up the exhuast.

    my money says that if it doesnt steam the flame front out then it'll start getting knocky unless you retard the timing and thats going to cost you power. you might pick up a cleaner exhuast and engine out of it tho.


    There is some ancedotal evidence that early race cars ran better when it was raining but my thinking is that it was the overall cooling of the atmospheric air that gave the advantage rather than the water being ingested by the engine.

    All that said.

    Other than for diagnostic/decoking reasons Ive never tried misting the intake of a running engine done smartly its not going to kill a petrol engine and you might pick up a pony or two and at the end of the day on the track sometimes its that extra pony on tap at the right moment that makes the day.

    ID suggest that for preliminary testing you could use the vac advance point on the 3.9's intake plenum as a water entry point its fine enough and with enough airflow that it should nicely break up a water stream for intake (its also after the MAF so you wont kill that.)

    on the edit.

    my bad not a rover engine.. eyeball the rover engine for the vac advance pickup point and find a similar location downstream of the MAF or equivelent in ford language.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Central Queensland
    Posts
    3,468
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    ID suggest that for preliminary testing you could use the vac advance point on the 3.9's intake plenum as a water entry point its fine enough and with enough airflow that it should nicely break up a water stream for intake (its also after the MAF so you wont kill that.)
    on the falcons theres a handy spot on the intake pipe where a resonator usually resides, which is usually plugged with a 2" welch plug..... how handy is that!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Yinnar South, Vic
    Posts
    9,943
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Umm, no its a bad idea

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,500
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Sprint View Post
    on the falcons theres a handy spot on the intake pipe where a resonator usually resides, which is usually plugged with a 2" welch plug..... how handy is that!
    when you get to having a go, keep us posted.

    better yet start a new thread with all the goss.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!