Thread: washing your car makes it go better!

I did see that too.
It was not on a 4by4 though and minimal.
They do polish airliners though for less friction and it does make a difference.

Got to love mythbusters.

actually I know think that the problem may lie with the throttle pedal assembly or associated wiring to ECU... did a more comprehensive search of AULRO and other sites last night after a frustrating drive through the alps where being restricted to under 2500rpm was a pain... It appears that quite a few early model manual D2s have the problem of not being able to rev cleanly beyond 2500rpm and some of the posts mentioned that the throttle position sensor/assembly/wiring was the problem. I then remembered how the car seems to accelerate better under cruise control 'resume' than through using the pedal...so hopefully this is my problem and should get a chance to check it out tomorrow. Incidentally, when they do dyno runs on vehicles with electronic throttles, do they bother using the pedal or would they just use cruise or somehow control revs through the ECU? I ask because she got a very good dyno reading and the people doing the dyno didn't think there was any problem with it revving out.

Incidentally, the other interesting thing I discovered about improving manual D2s was the disconnection of the plug attached to the clutch master cylinder to improve gear change smoothness. Never heard mention of this before despite years on the forum - I guess that just reflects the fact that the manuals are relatively rare...

actually on further searching it seems that the clutch master cylinder plug disconnect only relates to Defenders...

Originally Posted by feraldisco

actually on further searching it seems that the clutch master cylinder plug disconnect only relates to Defenders...

And wont work with Cruise...


A word to all, be careful what you read on a forum...
Dont go pulling plugs etc without care and consideration.

I'd suggest Throttle assy, or Fuel Rail Pressure (Pressure Reg)

Originally Posted by Tombie2

And wont work with Cruise...


A word to all, be careful what you read on a forum...
Dont go pulling plugs etc without care and consideration.

I'd suggest Throttle assy, or Fuel Rail Pressure (Pressure Reg)

true - always handy to know the potential negatives as well as positives of any modification...you would, after all,think that most things fitted in the factory have a useful purpose, but in some cases the negatives outweigh the positives as per EGR.

I realise that not having a functional clutch switch will mean that gears shouldn't be changed when using cruise control - My D1 had aftermarket cruise without a clutch switch so I'm used to this, and presumably you could set up a switch near the cruise control controls to allow you to switch the clutch switch off and on as required.

I definately know that mine hates gear changes when there is oil at the ecu, just wondering how long before the residual works it way out though, the ecu plug has been cleaned about four times now!

cheers bronson

Originally Posted by Tombie2

And wont work with Cruise...


A word to all, be careful what you read on a forum...
Dont go pulling plugs etc without care and consideration.

I'd suggest Throttle assy, or Fuel Rail Pressure (Pressure Reg)

Whats the best way to test this Tombie?

Hi all
just wondering if anyone knows roughly how long it takes all the residual oil to come through to the red ecu plug?
I reckon Ive cleaned the ecu plug 6 times and it still seems to come through very lightly and plays havock with the ecu.
I also have modified the injector harness to fix this problem!Q

cheers
bronson