front end flex

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Originally Posted by D110V8D

Brake lines are extended but not to the point of breaking....well according to the grab and shake method of testing that is!:eek::D:D
Like I said I lifted it up till it was hanging in the wind so to speak and it seems fine. Under real world conditions it may not be, that is when fully crossed up there may be extra? travel either side? Does that make sense?:D


Too firm? I like it. Front springs are a hand me down from my old rangie. The 110 has a winch and bar etc on front as did the ranga.

Rear's I have only just up graded from 270 pound 17" free length to the 320's because they were sagging a little and the car was pulling mono's when I hooked up the trailer.:eek: Fridge, tools, spares, recovery gear, drawer unit etc all live permanently in the back.

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Did you check full lock at full extension too? That's where it gets tightest.

I didn't notice you were running a 110, I'm running a rangie so the spring rates make sense now.

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Originally Posted by Dougal

Did you check full lock at full extension too? That's where it gets tightest.

I didn't notice you were running a 110, I'm running a rangie so the spring rates make sense now.

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:eek::eek: Uhh....well....uhh.....NO! lol.....I'm going to have to go and check it all again now. Dang it.:D:D:D

It's like I always say to Fred Smith.....if it's all set up right and doesn't look butchered I HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH IT!:D

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Originally Posted by Tusker

<snip>

Repeat until you run out of money and/or energy.

Regards
Max P

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:lol2:

:twobeers:

I'm not shore if you have seen this link, but i have been following it since the start, i think it is a major break through in the endless journey to get more flex out of the front radious arms in a rover:cool:

Outer Limits 4x4 Board :: View topic - Rover front end mega flex
Enjoy.

TIM.

hi mark

we went there and tried all of the above suggestion, eg., holy bushes, yes flexed more but they lasted only a few months before they collapsed, longer shocks, did not work because the bushes limited the travel anyway. The best solution is a 3 link I'd say, but as Stooge said, why bother with lockers, you might also get very scary body roll, even scarier than now!!!

ok so whats this three link thing?
i looked on the net and it appears you remove the radius arms and put an arm to the top of the diff housing.
does that about sum it up?

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Originally Posted by HangOver

ok so whats this three link thing?
i looked on the net and it appears you remove the radius arms and put an arm to the top of the diff housing.
does that about sum it up?

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http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-ri...d1-ute-23.html

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Originally Posted by rovercare

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-ri...d1-ute-23.html

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thanks for the link, so yes more or less, looks a fair bit of work though.
Are they legal?

collar taff next time you see his he has one ih the frontof his 90

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Originally Posted by rovercare

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-ri...d1-ute-23.html

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Thats the Safarigard way of doing it.

The stronger way to do it is by running 2 lower links to locate the axle and take the forces, 1 upper link to prevent rotation and a panhard rod for lateral location. This is the way that I would go about doing it. Well, actually for the road I would probably do 5-link which is the same with an additional upper (ie 1 upper on each side) as I understand it is a more stable setup and it still produces excellent flex. The 3-link is about outright articulation and would require rose joints (heims) for it to track straight on the road as a regular 2-lower, 1-offset upper setup.