Thread: front end flex

Originally Posted by Dougal

Why didn't you ask sooner?

My 80 series konis
580mm extended, 230mm stroke

I Assume you needed longer bump stops?

The need for bigger bump stops is factored in with the shock towers. Raising the top mount? Std bump stop might be ok. Putting a longer shock in the standard tower? Definitely.

Regards
Max P

Originally Posted by Tusker

The need for bigger bump stops is factored in with the shock towers. Raising the top mount? Std bump stop might be ok. Putting a longer shock in the standard tower? Definitely.

Regards
Max P

Man this is getting confusing, so if you put a longer shock in to get EXTRA travel you have to either raise the mount or use a bigger bump stop which REDUCES the travel?

I suppose as long as the extra travel you get is more than the higher turret or longer than the bump stop then you benefit.

Originally Posted by HangOver

I Assume you needed longer bump stops?

I have 1 inch longer bumpstops because I have a big diesel hiding under the bonnet. But that's not related to the longer shocks.

The stock shock towers are longer than they should be, this lets you fit a longer shock without packing bottomout bumpers.
Regardless, you need to do a lot of careful measuring before you decide to change anything with your suspension.

Originally Posted by Tombie2

OME (AR shock - 23.7" 602mm open (front)
OME (AR shock - 23.0" 584mm open (rear)

GENUINE shock - 21.5" 546mm open (front)
GENUINE shock - 21.7" 551mm open (rear)

Who makes the genuine shocks and what do they look like?
The shocks that were fitted to the front of mine (as measured above) are red and have "made in England" stamped into them. No other useful markings.

How are you measuring those those shocks?

Originally Posted by HangOver

Man this is getting confusing, so if you put a longer shock in to get EXTRA travel you have to either raise the mount or use a bigger bump stop which REDUCES the travel?

I suppose as long as the extra travel you get is more than the higher turret or longer than the bump stop then you benefit.

Go back to page 1.

The reason that either the turret is raised, or the bumpstop is lowered is so that the shock isn't asked to close more than its designed closed length - thats the only reason.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

No.

Lets say:
A 8" travel shock has a closed length of 14" (open length is then 22") - something close to original.
A 12" travel shock has a closed length of 18" (open length is then 30")

To fit the 12" travel shocks then you would raise the upper mount by 4" so that the closed position of the lower shock mount is then in the same position as it would be for a standard setup. The longer shock has an additional 4" of travel which will be found when the axle is fully dropped, so the suspension would drop 4" further than a standard setup which gives 4" of additional suspension travel.

Please also note that increased suspension travel doesn't necessarily mean that you will see improved articulation. They are different.

I've just been through this. My goal was to get the most out of the front without modding towers or brake lines etc.

I went with Pro Comp shocks front and rear.

Front open/closed 600 -- 370 (Springs are Les Richmond purple yellow 220 pound 15.5" free length)
Rear open/closed 600 -- 375 (springs are Les Richmond Orange green 320 pound 17" free length)

They're actually listed as 610 open on the website but when I measured them they're closer to 600 base of pin to base of pin and centre of eye to base of pin.

Anyway the way I worked it out was (hope it's right. No doubt I'll be told it's not) resting height of shock is 520 base of pin to base of pin, minus the bumpstop clearance which is 130, minus an extra 20mm for compression is 370 compressed. So according to this all that is needed for peace of mind is to space the bumpstop down by 10mm or so just in case.

I did the same calculation on the rear and came up with 530 resting height minus 140 bumpstop clearance minus extra 20mm which gives 370mm compressed. I haven't taken into account the angle of the rear shock though I believe it'll be fine as is.

With the front fully extended (only done on the high lift jack mind you not in real world yet) that is the shock is topped out the brake lines feel fine and the spring only just starts to dislocate.

On the rear fully extended brake line is absolutely fine and spring only just starts to dislocate as well.

Going bush next week so will test it all out but I'm pretty confident it'll be fine.

Originally Posted by D110V8D

I've just been through this. My goal was to get the most out of the front without modding towers or brake lines etc.

I went with Pro Comp shocks front and rear.

Front open/closed 600 -- 370 (Springs are Les Richmond purple yellow 220 pound 15.5" free length)
Rear open/closed 600 -- 375 (springs are Les Richmond Orange green 320 pound 17" free length)

How are you running standard brake lines with shocks that length?
I went 2" extended and they're just okay.

Why soo firm with the springs? I once had 240lb/in front and 340 lb/in rear and hated it.
I'm currently running 180 lb/in front and 240lb/in rear. This with a 4BD1 holding the front end down.