Welding to a Chassis

**disco_thrasher** · 15th December 2009, 08:36 PM

I am going to be welding my rear slider bars from behind the back wheels to the steel rear bar ,i have cross bars going to the chassis for extra strength , i am going to be spot welding a 5mm plate to the chassis then welding 3mm scaffold tube to that which has being welded up all ready ,this ultimately will give me a rear quater cut rock slider.
my concerns are by welding to the chassis could this cause havoc to any electrics/computors ???

i obviesouly wil be disconecting my batteries and my ecu and slabs which are located behind the glove box, is there anything i need to be concerned about any info will be appreciated.

cheers Kelvin

Tombie · 15th December 2009, 08:51 PM

No need to disconnect anything...

Just put "anti-zaps" on the batteries and make sure the good earth is very near the welding site.

**DeeJay** · 15th December 2009, 08:58 PM

I'd be finding out where the wiring runs to the rear lights. On a County / Defender the loom is inside the chassis. If it gets too hot it will catch fire, so I'd be doing 25mm runs then lightly quenching.

**disco_thrasher** · 15th December 2009, 08:59 PM

Originally Posted by Tombie2

No need to disconnect anything...

Just put "anti-zaps" on the batteries and make sure the good earth is very near the welding site.

ah sweet that makes it easier ,i dont have any anti-zaps by disconnecting the battery would that serve the same purpose

**langy** · 15th December 2009, 09:16 PM

The 'anti-zap' is a voltage spike suppressor - usually found in shops near where jumper leads are sold. Just disconnecting batteries won't do anything to protect the electronics. 9 times out of ten you can get by without the anti-zap, but it's a risk.

If you have a set of recent jumper leads, it should have a voltage spike suppressor feature - that will work. If not, upgrade your jumper leads with a anti spike device at the same time.

**long stroke** · 15th December 2009, 10:06 PM

I welded brackets for the rearbar wing protector supports to the chassis on my d1, no probs

....

CHEERS TIM.

**windsock** · 16th December 2009, 05:51 AM

Originally Posted by DeeJay

I'd be finding out where the wiring runs to the rear lights. On a County / Defender the loom is inside the chassis. If it gets too hot it will catch fire, so I'd be doing 25mm runs then lightly quenching.

I second that one. The previous owner of my truck used a gas torch to fix some chassis cracking and had the loom alight inside the chassis by the looks of the mess I discovered once it was mine.

I now run the wires in a plastic water pipe along the top of the chassis no worries.

good luck,

Phil

**disco_thrasher** · 16th December 2009, 07:34 AM

Originally Posted by langy

The 'anti-zap' is a voltage spike suppressor - usually found in shops near where jumper leads are sold. Just disconnecting batteries won't do anything to protect the electronics. 9 times out of ten you can get by without the anti-zap, but it's a risk.

If you have a set of recent jumper leads, it should have a voltage spike suppressor feature - that will work. If not, upgrade your jumper leads with a anti spike device at the same time.

Thanks i need a new pair off jumper leads too i will kill 2 birds with on stone

**d2dave** · 16th December 2009, 09:47 AM

Originally Posted by long stroke

I welded brackets for the rearbar wing protector supports to the chassis on my d1, no probs

....

CHEERS TIM.

Not many electrics in a D1.

Dave.

**uninformed** · 16th December 2009, 12:41 PM

disconect the battery and the atlernator. keep the earth as close to the work piece as possible.

regarding the Alt. i found out the hard way. and this on a def. no elecs

Serg

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