Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 14 of 14

Thread: Electrical component required

  1. #11
    dmdigital's Avatar
    dmdigital is offline OldBushie Vendor

    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Arnhem Land, NT
    Posts
    8,492
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    I think my old man has one in his shed.............
    It's probably broken
    MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6

    Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Seaford, Near Franganistan, Victoria
    Posts
    388
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Why not bypass it by making it a solid conductor and put a thermal overload fuse on the supply?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Horsley Park, Sydney
    Posts
    2,939
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Waxenwane View Post
    Why not bypass it by making it a solid conductor and put a thermal overload fuse on the supply?
    The thermal fuse or bi-metal strip (as they used to be called) is required to open circuit when it reached the end of it's travel, allowing it to only travel in the other direction.

    Actually the thermal fuse will only open if you continue driving against the end stop for too long, drawing excess current. The fuse should re-set (after 35 seconds) according to RAVE.

    Erich

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Seaford, Near Franganistan, Victoria
    Posts
    388
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have the same setup on my sunroof......Instead of limit switches, I use 2 of these and they work quite well.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!