Thread: Engine Watchdog TM2 - Where's the best place to put sensor?

The back of the engine will get hot first if there's an issue so thats were I'd put it. Pat

Thanks guys for your feedback. just reading at the web site of watchdog and they say it also detects low coolant levels, splits in hoses, blocked rad's and more. geezzz alot of good stuff there in this one little unit. plus easy to fit and use.
would you need anything else besides a egr sensor???

I've got mine mounted on the front of the block, but not on the thermo-housing itself. Just underneath that housing I found an empty screw hole, matched up a bolt that fitted perfectly, and Bob was my uncle!

Contrary to what some people have said I have found it to be totally unaffected by air draughts.

It's responsive, being sensitive to the slightest hill incline or decline you see the temp go up or down accordingly by a few degrees and then settles back to your normal operating temp when on the flat and just cruising. Where mine is fitted on the 300TDi the engine operates on hot days in summer around 88-94 with the AC on (a couple of degrees less with that unit switched off). In the winter you can lower that by another 5 degrees.

This unit just saved my engine big time with a coolant loss (see separate thread), and gave me an instant indication that things were wrong under the bonnet.

Don't mount it on the thermostat housing itself... some say it will give a false readout if you loose your coolant.

I have the same system and mounted it on a spare hole on the head just behind the thermostat housing.

I get reading of up to 100 degrees when under major uphill load with the ac on, and have set the alarm at 101. I have a test hill nearby.I think the temperature is too high in the engine bay and am looking at ways to reduce it.

The radiator has been recently rodded, the fan clutch works OK, the intercooler hoses have been replaced with better ones and I still think it gets too hot.

I have seen 112 degrees and the radiator boiled, thus prompting all the recent work , however it probably saved the motor.

Money well spend in my opinion.

Originally Posted by **Joker**

Thanks martin..

So i guess it just a trail base thing with your own rig. just keep adjusting it until you know what your highest temp is. would you know the actual boiling temp of the engine??

The boiling temp of an engine depends on what you put in it.

As we all know(or should know) water boils at 100 deg C. Now if you put the water under pressure you raise the boiling point by two degrees for ever one psi of pressure. Now when you add coolant you the increase the boiling point higher.

Footnote: Me being an old fart I grew up with farenheight temps. I think, but am not 100% on this, that the two degree per one psi is degrees F. not C.

Dave.

Originally Posted by omvanders

I've got mine mounted on the front of the block, but not on the thermo-housing itself. Just underneath that housing I found an empty screw hole, matched up a bolt that fitted perfectly, and Bob was my uncle!

Contrary to what some people have said I have found it to be totally unaffected by air draughts.

It's responsive, being sensitive to the slightest hill incline or decline you see the temp go up or down accordingly by a few degrees and then settles back to your normal operating temp when on the flat and just cruising. Where mine is fitted on the 300TDi the engine operates on hot days in summer around 88-94 with the AC on (a couple of degrees less with that unit switched off). In the winter you can lower that by another 5 degrees.

This unit just saved my engine big time with a coolant loss (see separate thread), and gave me an instant indication that things were wrong under the bonnet.

Don't mount it on the thermostat housing itself... some say it will give a false readout if you loose your coolant.

thanks for the info i'll be looking for that screw hole when i get mine on monday or tuesday. So this unit does detect coolant lose so theres no need to get any other temp sensor???

Originally Posted by Hoodoo Brown

I have the same system and mounted it on a spare hole on the head just behind the thermostat housing.

I get reading of up to 100 degrees when under major uphill load with the ac on, and have set the alarm at 101. I have a test hill nearby.I think the temperature is too high in the engine bay and am looking at ways to reduce it.

The radiator has been recently rodded, the fan clutch works OK, the intercooler hoses have been replaced with better ones and I still think it gets too hot.

I have seen 112 degrees and the radiator boiled, thus prompting all the recent work , however it probably saved the motor.

Money well spend in my opinion.

it good to know what the temp is when your out and about. just spent over 7G's on my motor so like i said i wont be taking that chance anymore with over heating like the last time lol.

Originally Posted by Mr Whippy

The boiling temp of an engine depends on what you put in it.

As we all know(or should know) water boils at 100 deg C. Now if you put the water under pressure you raise the boiling point by two degrees for ever one psi of pressure. Now when you add coolant you the increase the boiling point higher.

Footnote: Me being an old fart I grew up with farenheight temps. I think, but am not 100% on this, that the two degree per one psi is degrees F. not C.

Dave.

Thanks dave for the feed back..i'm prob repeating myself SO there is no actual number for boiling point in your rad's cause as you said it depends what you put into it and how and where you drive.