Thread: Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024

Originally Posted by Kevin B

ok replaced the whole guts of the distributor and tested it, still no spark, while doing it i noticed (never noticed this before) that when the BIM module was fitted it was mounted on a thin SS plate, not aluminum, with a heat sink and there appears to be no thermal paste either, is it possible that during the hour or so i had it running that heat has killed this module?, would it happen that fast i dont know how hot they actually get, im fast running out of ideas...

There really are only a couple of things that fail in the Dizzy that cause no spark.

1. module (ignition amplifier) failure
2. reluctor coil goes open circuit (very rare, but does occasionally happen)
2a. reluctor coil shorts internally (rare, as above, but resistance value will be out markedly)

test the outputs from the distributor make sure the resistance is within spec.
Follow this:[ame]http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Downloads/Rover_PDFs/PickupTest01.pdf[/ame]
credit: Ramon Alban

if that is OK, then 'assume' the reluctor coil is fine, then check your wiring to the module is correct polarity. If the polarity is reversed, it can be a problem for the module (fried silicone) but it theoretically should withstand an accidental reversal.

if that is all OK, then check your wiring to the ballast resistor, the coil itself is OK and also check the distributor is correctly installed @ #1cyl TDC inlet and not 180? out.... it happens. Adjust the static timing as req'd - between 6-10?BTDC to get it to turn over, then adjust to correct spec with a timing light once running.

Follow Bee-utey's threads - they are pretty much spot-on. It's not something to fear or get frustrated with. just check each step, and it will either highlight a faulty component, or a fault in the existing procedure, which is easily corrected.

Thanks Mercguy, i managed to fix it, it was a Dodgy BIM Module (cheap Chinese one) that had been fitted to it, once i replaced that it ran like a dream.

Originally Posted by Mercguy

There really are only a couple of things that fail in the Dizzy that cause no spark.

1. module (ignition amplifier) failure
2. reluctor coil goes open circuit (very rare, but does occasionally happen)
2a. reluctor coil shorts internally (rare, as above, but resistance value will be out markedly)

test the outputs from the distributor make sure the resistance is within spec.
Follow this:http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/...ckupTest01.pdf
credit: Ramon Alban

if that is OK, then 'assume' the reluctor coil is fine, then check your wiring to the module is correct polarity. If the polarity is reversed, it can be a problem for the module (fried silicone) but it theoretically should withstand an accidental reversal.

if that is all OK, then check your wiring to the ballast resistor, the coil itself is OK and also check the distributor is correctly installed @ #1cyl TDC inlet and not 180? out.... it happens. Adjust the static timing as req'd - between 6-10?BTDC to get it to turn over, then adjust to correct spec with a timing light once running.

Follow Bee-utey's threads - they are pretty much spot-on. It's not something to fear or get frustrated with. just check each step, and it will either highlight a faulty component, or a fault in the existing procedure, which is easily corrected.

Yesterday I fitted the module and coil supplied by bee ute on my RRC V8 3.9
The improvement in power under petrol and gas it is remarkable, specially noticeable on gas.
A big thanks to Jilden your help is very appreciated

so for an 88 rangie

the bosch bim024 module and a bosch mec717 coil will do the job?

or is there a better combo?

That's what I have on my 3.5 Disco, works well.

lol i never really considered a fatter spark as producing more power. timing yes but fatter spark no.

anyway the coil on my mizy van died on the side of the road. a mate shot round with a red after market job that had a balance that was on a 265. took off the balance and just wired it up.

my fuel consumption went from 280-290 lim a tank to 320-330 a tank and now it pinks a bit. and its been a few months now

I hope this works with the standard coil. uploadfromtaptalk1424474735532.jpg

Originally Posted by Grimace

I hope this works with the standard coil. uploadfromtaptalk1424474735532.jpg

Should do, so long as the module has good heat transferring contact with the heat sink. Put plenty of white stuff under it? I suggest you drill a 3mm hole through the other module mounting hole and fit a small nut and bolt. Otherwise vibration may loosen the other screw which happens to be the earthing point of the module. The OEM coil should be just fine.

And I hope that you fit some heat shrink over those naked crimp connectors, after you've made sure they're tight. Loose or corroded connections are the major point of failure of every one of these conversions I've seen other people do.