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Couple of photos of the conversion I did today. This is 96 Disco ignition, although it is fitted to my 87 RRC.
I reused the original wiring where possible. You can see where the distributor blue and red wires have to connect to the new module.
Ignition timing was still OK, test drive to come.
Results of test drive: No noticeable difference from when I last drove the vehicle with standard ignition. That was two weeks ago though, maybe I just haven't noticed. I will be driving it to Adelaide next week so I can get an idea of open road driving then.
I have to tell you a happy story regarding this conversion. I converted my 110 to a Bosch module two weeks before we we did the Holland track. About 100 km out of Southern cross we found a couple in their 50-60s with their 76 Rangie and caravan set up straddling a ditch on the gravel road. Apparently the module had died(he had tested it with a multimeter). He was on the mobile to a sparky getting a new stock module. Showed him my conversion and mentionned the price. He had a later electronic dizzy like mine so he made a diagram for the wiring. Seemed very happy to be saving a fair bit of coin. We came back two or three days later and he was gone. Apparently he only lives 5km from me so I'll need to see how he went.
Just posting up my nylon clip repair thread here for dizzy fiddlers...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ir-method.html
Hey bee utey how about adding wiring diagram for transformer style coils like the Bosch HEC 715 or MEC 717 to this excellent tutorial/project .......or do you think transformer style are not as good as the old oil filled/can style????
As an addition to this.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon
My drive to Adelaide saw slightly better fuel consumption (I think, I don't keep accurate figures).
What I did notice was a lot more mid range torque. Hills that were a struggle in 5th gear, or even needed 4th gear prior to the conversion were dispatched easily in 5th.
Like I used and pictured above? Wiring is the same. The coil still has positive and negative posts.Quote:
Originally Posted by cockie55
Wiring diagram? I could but with 4 wires there's not much to do: from my first post:Quote:
Originally Posted by cockie55
The first picture shows the ignition module close up: terminal 3 is 4.8mm wide, it is connected to a new red wire from the distributor. Terminal 7 is connected to a new black wire from the distributor. Terminal 15 goes to the coil +ve. Terminal 16 goes to the coil -ve.
With the update for the later dissy (serp engine) Terminal 3 blue wire from dissy, Terminal 7 red wire from dissy.
No good reason at all for my using oil filled coils other that they work well and reliably and I can usually get them for $10 complete with the heatsink. And they look original which is important to some of the vehicle owners I make these for. However I found that they are best mounted vertically. They can leak when mounted horizontally.
Sometimes I score a nearly new transformer coil and use it, such as in the special kit I made to fit between a D1 air box and ABS unit. This was a tight fit, took a little thinking.
New the trannie coils are around $50 to $70 (Coventry's specials list $43 + GST) so not that expensive only I like recycling good cheap bits.:)
Thanks for that bee utey. The tranny style coil certainly opens up more mounting options. Sorry BigJon I missed seeing you had used one in your conversion.
Hi BeeUtey.
When you do these conversions for your customers, do you do it to replace dead modules or is there an expected improvement over a working module?
I have relocated my standard module from the dizzy (MY95 Disco) to the inner guard and have a spare module for emergencies from a wrecked later model that is the factory remote mount version which looks the same but remote on a heatsink.
Others have claimed improvements but was just wondering if this is worth doing when the factory one isn't dead.
Supercheap quoted a bit over $60 ordered from Bosch just for added info for people.