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Thread: "Tigerz11",, thoughts please?

  1. #1
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    "Tigerz11",, thoughts please?

    I've bought myself a Superwinch X9.

    The braking is "in-the-drum" which I assume precludes using Dyneema rope, though I've seen at least one like this. It's loaded with steel cable as it is, which I'm happy with anyway.

    Did stumble across Tigerz11.com.au - maybe a little buyer's remorse - I notice that their selling winches from $600, and have a 12,000LB loaded with synthetic, with wired and wireless controllers for almost half the price of the Superwinch. It also has faster line speeds albeit at disproportionately worse current draw.

    I prefer to have a reputable brand for practical reasons and I'm wary of the "might as well give it a go for the price" line. Can anyone vouch for the Tigerz11 range? Comments/feedback?

    I think I've made the right choice going for a well built, American unit, even if it was [several] times the price.

  2. #2
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    dont know about the winches but we have a couple of his solid state solenoids and they work a treat.....

    I have also noticed that they are sponsoring more and more stuff including cars at tuff trucks
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  3. #3
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    The importer is quite an enthusiast.

    There is also a new range which have just been released which have 2 speed settings.

    Check the fit of the winch in you winchbar!!! The newer ones are getting pretty powerful, the current with 6.6hp and the are long in the motor. If you have a cutout in the winch bar mounts, then the Tigerz11 winches can be flipped and run upside down.

    So far they have a good reputation.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  4. #4
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    I have ordered one - will let you know when it gets here, but all reports are good.

  5. #5
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    I've seen these available with a tow bar mount. A frame for the winch that slots into the tow bar receptacle. Seems a good idea, as then you can have the winch in car and out of the mud/rain etc for most of the trip (taking up space). I wonder how hard it would be to modify a non winch bullbar to take a tow bar, which would allow for pulling from the front. Need to be quite strong so you dont tear it off. With this, you'd have a winch kept clean (inside the car, taking up space) but able to pull out either front or back if you nose in hard.
    Heck, maybe modified sliders to use it to pull sideways? Just a thought

  6. #6
    up2nogood Guest
    The Superwinch is made in Slovenia (it's got a dirty great sticker on the motor that announces such) and uses self tapping bolts to hold on the motor and gear casing. It also has a 'fusible' (?) drive link between the motor drive shaft and the main drive shaft that extends through to the gears that is made of hardened plastic. It is a bit of a sloppy fit, but seems to work OK. But if you have a heavy pull I would use a pully block. Don't think I'd like to overload it or it will strip out.
    The gears are well made, but the grease from the factory is crap and needs to be replaced. To not do so will see some of the hard facing in the planetary gear set wear off prematurely.
    Also the motor bearings are 'OK' (reads: not that good) and are Chinese in origin. The winch I've just pulled down has been used maybe a dozen times in 5 years and the planetary gears slightly worn due to poor lube.

    Overall the Superwinch is an OK winch, and I don't think it's that far in front (if it is at all) of the current good Chinese winches. Most Chinese winches are a copy of the Warn, although they are starting to get their own ideas in.

    Now, can you do me a favour and look at your motor as I forgot which terminal is A and which is F2........
    Look at the motor from above and look on the plastic tab where the wires bolt to it. It will have terminals arranged like this:
    End of motor side: .Cable drum side.
    Can you ID them for me please? Should be F1 close to the winch on its own, and A and F2 on the end cap. Which one's which on the end of motor side?

  7. #7
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    'A' should be on its own and 'F1' and 'F2' are the two together. They are the directional ones

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by B92 8NW View Post
    I've bought myself a Superwinch X9.

    The braking is "in-the-drum" which I assume precludes using Dyneema rope, though I've seen at least one like this. It's loaded with steel cable as it is, which I'm happy with anyway.

    Did stumble across Tigerz11.com.au - maybe a little buyer's remorse - I notice that their selling winches from $600, and have a 12,000LB loaded with synthetic, with wired and wireless controllers for almost half the price of the Superwinch. It also has faster line speeds albeit at disproportionately worse current draw.

    I prefer to have a reputable brand for practical reasons and I'm wary of the "might as well give it a go for the price" line. Can anyone vouch for the Tigerz11 range? Comments/feedback?

    I think I've made the right choice going for a well built, American unit, even if it was [several] times the price.
    You mean you've just discovered tigerz11, you need to get on the net more.
    Been a hell of a lot of talk on these over the last 6 months, heaps on outerlimits, for a cheapy they look pretty good value. I'd get one if i was after anojther but i've got a highmount already.

  9. #9
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    I went the Tigerz11. 12000lbs version with rope.

    So far so good. The winching has been recovering myself from bog holes, pulling out other cars etc. Not really torture tested yet.

    I have been much happier travelling unknown tracks knowing it is there to help out especially when on my own.

  10. #10
    up2nogood Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    'A' should be on its own and 'F1' and 'F2' are the two together. They are the directional ones
    Not on these beasties!

    From memory, if you're looking side on with the motor end cap on your left and the cable drum on your right and the earth bolt on the bottom.....
    A
    .............F1
    F2


    I think they just wanted to be different. The later ones have both F's near the drum, like the Warn. I can always pull the cap back off as the A will be the brushes/armatures...... But I siliconed it on.....

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