Hi Scott and let me guess, the operating info that came with the IBS states that it charges the cranking battery first and then charges the auxiliary battery ( I haven’t read their literature ).
Most dual battery isolator manufacturers make this B/S statement but what actually happens is the isolator measures the voltage on it’s input terminal.
Once the motor is running, the voltage on the isolator’s input terminal will rise and once it reaches a set level, usually about 13.2v, the isolator will either switch on or it will start a short time delay, ( usually no longer than about a minute or two ) and the switch on.
Very, VERY few dual battery isolators have any idea of the state of charge of the cranking battery, they act on the voltage levels the alternator operates at.
So Scott, in your set up, you isolator should be switched on ( cut-in and connecting the cranking and auxiliary battery together ) within a few seconds to a minute or so after you start your motor.
But as to how long it takes to charge your cranking battery, it all depends on how high or low it is when you start your drive.
But on average, with a fully charged cranking battery when you started your motor, a 15 minute drive will replace most of what you used to start the motor.
Manners, drivesafe.
What you meant to say was IMHO.........etc, well IMHO you may have expertise in the field of dual battery regulator/controllers, but your knowlege of lead acid battery technology can be improved.
I'll leave you with the last word.
Have a nice day.
Deano![]()
I totally agree, as battery technology is changing all the time, I make it my business to try to keep up with the changes, but this does not excuse your foray into a subject you not only know nothing about but keep changing your story.
In your first reply in this thread you start by posting :-
Then you posted this gem up.
So tell us all, are you coming or going, because you sure as hell can’t seem to make your mind up.
no offense mate but no, in the respect that I ment it, thats not a close anology. (but I think i understand where you are coming from with it)
the mechanicals of both engines are of the same generic design, being a 4 cylinder 4 stroke diesel with a turbo. Even though your not a mechanic I could show you the turbo from either engine and you would identify it as being a turbocharger. Its the same with batteries now.
assuming you were a layman, If I showed you a battery from the long discharge bank at ATC on amberly you could identify it as a battery because its got some similar design features, a positive terminal, a negative terminal, casing and caps. If I sectionalised one you could identify its internal parts. But just by looking at it you probabley couldnt tell me how to charge it correctly. you could tell me that yep, whack an X volts charger on and it will charge and it would to about 30% capacity.
batteries generally all look similar and at the end of the day they all do the same thing, provide the power to start the vehicle and hold a reserve of power to keep things going while the alternators not working. Generally speaking if you whack an old school charger on them they will charge but they wont all charge correctly.
To tie it to the diesels example the tdi300 is a mechanical engine and runs a lower boost pressure than the puma, it also doesnt come on boost as quickly so needs to be driven a certain way to be most useful to you. If you drive the puma which is an electronically controled engine with a different turbo and injection system the same way as you would drive the tdi300 you would kill the fuel economy of the engine, shorten the service interval and potentially shorten the life of some engine components. The engine would still work and it would still do what an engine is supposed to do in terms of moving the vehicle but it wouldn't be the best way of doing so with the setup on hand.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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