Thread: Home brewing

Don't skimp on the sterilisation.
Don't substitute sugar.
Don't drink it all at a sitting.



Cheers
Simon.

Be clean, be scrupulessly clean, equipment, bottleing gear, bottles, yourself, all sterile. Nappy San is Sodium Metabisulphate, to a great extent, cheap and quick plunge steriliser. Buy new spare buckets and syphon hoses, and never use them for anything else. I'll check to see how to get a text attachement posted. I have a text file of many different recipes. will post it up here soon.

The Coopers kits are good, follow the instructions exactly. The longer you let Coopers age, the better it will be, and it is like that NSW Old beer, the nice dark beer mmm beer, sorry, when you see the sediment which is dead yeast cells (vegemite), it's too late, you may as well have another one, cause it will hurt tomorrow anyway.

Shorty.

One 63 Kb txt file, full of beer recipes.

Don't ask me! I only found them. May only be of curiosity value.

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These are direct logs from the Zymergy Echo, to disk. The names,
comments, etc are still on them. In fact, nothing has been added or
removed, no artificial flavours, artificial colours, fillers or
preservitives were added to these messages to make them less than they
really were, and are.
One thing, I stopped doing this for 8 months so there is a BIT of a gap.

Area Zymurgy, Msg#94, 09-10-92 07:21:48
From: Alan Stauch
To: Denis Dubuc
Subject: Re: Heineken Beer

Here is a simple, yet very close recipe to Heineken Dark Beer.
Ingredients: One (1) Arkell Kellar Premium Lager 1.8 kg
1 oz Hallertauer hops
250 grms of roasted barley
1 kg dry malt extract

1) Crack the husks of the grains and place same in cheese cloth and knot.
2) Place in 3 litres of boiling water and steep for 30 mins.
3) Add the Arkell lager, the dry malt, and 1/2 oz of hops.
4) Boil for one (1) hour.
5) Put the wort into primary fermenter filled to the 5 gallon mark.
6) Add the remaining 1/2 oz of hops and pitch the yeast.

Proceed as usual.

The only problem with this recipe is you might get a chill haze with the
beer. I don't use Irish Moss but some say to add 1/2 tsp of Irish Moss
to the boil 15 minutes prior to adding the wort to the primary pail.

Enjoy!

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Area Zymurgy, Msg#74, 14-10-92 21:35:20
From: Rick Garvin
To: Mark Engebretson
Subject: boil or not to boil

In response to your request for a Russian Imperial Stout recipe I submit a
recipe that has done well for me (3 ribbons):

9 lbs Extra Dark Dry Malt Extract
3 lbs honey
1/2 lb black patent malt (well crushed)
2 lbs #120 Crystal

40 HBU bittering hops
3 oz aroma hops
3 oz dry hop

Use whatever yeast you like, and use a lot! This should be fermented in the
65-72 F range as high gravity worts tend to produce a lot of phenol at warm
temps. The great amount of hops are neede because of the high gravity. Oh,
and steap the black malt in one gallon water, bring to a boil (yes, boil...
black malt has so little husk that boiling is no problem) strain and go as
for regular brews...

Cheers
Rick

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Area Zymurgy, Msg#96, 16-10-92 10:48:00
From: Michelangelo Jones
To: Jerry Kassebaum
Subject: Re:Pumpkin Beer???

JK> Anyone have a good, tested recipe for pumpkin beer? About all
JK> Papazian has is "Used boiled pumpkin. Spices, too, if you'd like."

JK> How long do I boil how much pumpkin? Other specifics, too, please.
JK> Thanks!

Disclaimer: I've never made pumpkin beer, but I've improvised with
excellent results on several batches.

1. For my tastes, I'd think a pumpkin beer would be best as a dark ale..
some dark malt, but because of the pumpkin not as much hops...
perhaps 3/4 Oz. Goldings flavor, 1/3 oz. Saaz aroma. With a truly
dark malt that won't seem very hoppy.

2. Baked, not boiled, pumpkin would give stronger results in the flavor.
After baking, take ~1C. of pumpkin out of the skin and put in a muslin
or cheesecloth bag. Do not mash, but chop into 3/4" cubes.

(To bake pumpkin, cut in half and scrape flesh remove seeds and other
internals. Place on cookie sheet or aluminum foil, bowl-style, inside up,
in 350 deg. oven until fork penetrates easily (varies a lot by pumpkin
size and flesh thickness). Cook a bit less than this for beer purposes
but leave the rest in to make pie out of or whatever.)

3. After boil, add pumpkin bag, 1T. ground cinnamon, 1t. ground nutmeg,
fresh if possible. More spice to taste. Allow to cool.

4. Before diluting & pitching yeast, remove pumpkin bag.

OK, so this isn't the tested recipe you asked for. But you should have
good results; I'm enjoying it in my mind already. I think after my next
batch of Ain't Misbehaving I'll try this one myself.

Mike


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Area Zymurgy, Msg#99, 16-10-92 12:01:02
From: Steve Yelvington
To: Jerry King
Subject: Beer, Dark, German Style

Here's a simple recipe for a moderately dark English-style ale.

3.3 lb (1 can) John Bull amber malt extract
3 lb Munton and Fison dark dry malt extract (powder)
2 oz Kent Goldings hops
1 pk Edme ale yeast
3/4 cup corn sugar

Boil a couple of gallons of water. Remove from heat, add malt.
Return to heat and boil 30 minutes. Add half the hops. Boil another
15 minutes and add the rest of the hops. Boil another 15 minutes, then
cool the wort, pour it into your fermenter, add cold water to bring the
total volume to 5 gallons, and pitch the yeast when it's at room temp.
Ferment until the bubbling stops (about a week), then boil a pint of
water with the corn sugar. Cool it, then mix it with the beer in a
bottling bucket. Siphon into bottles, cap, and store for at least
three weeks.

Here's a recipe for a stout that I brewed last July. It's all gone
now, sadly.

6.6 lb Munton and Fison dark malt extract syrup
1/2 lb roast barley grains
1/4 lb 2-row malted barley
1/4 lb chocolate malt (grain, not milkshakes!)
1/2 lb cracked wild rice
1.5 oz various hops (cleaning out my cupboard)
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 cup dark Brer Rabbit molasses
2 cups brewed Gevalia coffee
1 pk ale yeast
3/4 cup corn sugar or 1 cup dried malt extract for bottling

As you can see, it's hard to hurt a stout. :-) Steep the grains for
an hour or so at 150-180 degrees, then drain them into your brewpot
through a collander. Trickle hot water through them until all the
sweetness is extracted into the pot. Add your syrup, cinnamon, coffee
and molasses, and boil for an hour. Toss half the hops in after 30
minutes, then the rest 5-10 minutes before you're done. Cool,
transfer to fermenter, add water, add yeast, ferment for a week or so,
add sugar as in the first recipe, bottle and wait several weeks before
popping the top.

Note that neither of these are German-style beers. For that, you'll
need to use a lager yeast and a cold room for fermenting, which will
take much longer.

If you want to pump up the alcohol content, use more malt extract.
Note that as you approach 7-8%, the alcohol will tend to kill the
yeast, and you may have trouble carbonating your beer. Personally,
I find high-alcohol brews to have an objectionable taste.

If you want darker beers, use more chocolate and/or black patent
malt. Basically this is malted barley that has been roasted to
varying degrees of wicked blackness.






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Area Zymurgy, Msg#94, 17-10-92 20:51:04
From: Rick Garvin
To: All
Subject: Recipes

I see frequent requests for recipes on the conference. Since I do not
routinely type up my recipes I do not post everything that I make.
However, The Barley Corn, an east coast beer newspaper somewhat like The
Celebrator, commisioned an article on Vienna/Marzen/Oktoberfest from me.
I humbly post this for your consumption. George Fix's book _Vienna_ has
greatly influenced my view of what these beers are. So, for further
reference...
___________________________________
Excerpted from Barley Corn, Vol. 2 No. 5
___________________________________

Oktoberfest for the Home Brewer

When the general public is asked to name some specialty beer
styles, one that is frequently mentioned is Oktoberfest. There
is a folk lore, that has developed by word of mouth, that this
beer is a special one brewed for a very serious party - the
annual Munich Oktoberfest. So, for their very own serious
party, one of the first specialty beers that home brewers try to
brew is this Oktoberfest beer.

The beer served at Oktoberfest is actually named Marzen. This
is the German name for the month of March, but this is actually
more of a brewing method than a style of beer. Until the 1840s,
Marzen beer was brewed in the spring and stored in cold
cellars, ice houses and ice caves in the summers before
refrigeration was available. Without refrigeration it was
impossible to brew beer in the summer. So, what was made in
the spring had to last all summer. The last of this beer was
drunk at the Oktoberfest. Thus comes the alias: Oktoberfest
beer. With the advent of refrigeration this long aged beer was
no longer a necessity. However, beer revolutionaries Anton
Dreher and Gabriel Sedlmayr recognized the unique
smoothness and flavor associated with this beer and enabled
the transition of the Marzen style into the Industrial Age.

In order to reproduce a true Marzen beer we must first define
what we are trying to make. This beer is an amber, malty, full
bodied beer with a balanced bitterness and subtle, but
noticeable noble hop aroma. This translates to a starting
specific gravity between 1.052 and 1.064 (13-16 Plato), alcohol
between 4.8 and 6.5%, hopping rate between 6.6 and 8.83
HBUs (22-28 IBUs), and color between 8 and 12 degrees SRM.
The most important features of this beer are subjective and
cannot be easily put into numbers. George Fix in the Brewer's
Publication book Vienna (highly recommended) states that the
best descriptors for this beer are elegance, softness,
complexity, and balance. He believe this is brought about by
using the highest quality ingredients, long aging, a proper
yeast, and meticulous handling. I believe that meticulous
handling is the key.

At least 85% of all home brewers never go beyond brewing
beer with malt extract. There are kits available for Oktoberfest,
but all of them miss the Marzen mark. I recommend
Alexander's unhopped pale malt extract in all cases where
extract is called for. This is the palest extract available. This
way we can get the color and character that we choose by
adding our choice of specialty malts, not the manufacturers
choice.

I present three Marzen recipes in increasing order of
challenge. These are based on extract, partial mash, and an all
grain formulation.

Extract Oktoberfest for 5.5 gallons

2 4 lbs cans Alexander's Unhopped Pale Malt Extract
1 lb 40 Lovibond Crystal Malt
7 HBU noble bittering hops (Saaz, Tettnanger, or Hallertauer)
for 60 minutes
1/4 oz Saaz aroma hops for 10 minutes
1 tsp. Irish Moss
lager yeast
3/4 cup corn sugar or krausen to bottle

* Original gravity: 1.052
* Terminal gravity: 1.012

Procedure:
Add the crushed crystal malt to one gallon cold water.
Slowly bring the water to 165 F, over 30 minutes. Pour the
grain through a colander, reserving the liquid. Rinse the grain
with hot water and add all of the collected sweet wort to the
kettle. Add water to the kettle, reserving space for the extract.
It is preferable to boil the entire brew. This will make a
noticeable flavor difference. Bring the water to a boil for 15
minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, to avoid scorching,
and add the extract and bittering hops. Boil this mixture for 60
minutes. 15 minutes before the boil is over add the Irish Moss.
10 minutes before the boil is over add the aroma hops. Chill
the beer to 55 F and pitch the yeast. Ferment at between 50
and 55 F for two weeks. Transfer to a secondary fermenter and
age for 6 weeks to 6 months at 33 F. Bottle or keg, as desired.

Partial Mash Oktoberfest for 5.5 gallons

1 4 lb can Alexander's Unhopped Pale Malt Extract
1 lb Laaglander Extra Light Dry Malt Extract
3 lbs Pilsener Malt (use Klages or Lager malt as a substitute)
1 lb Cara-Pils Malt
1 lb 40 Lovibond Crystal Malt
8 HBU noble bittering hops (Saaz, Tettnanger, or Hallertauer)
for 60 minutes
1/4 oz Saaz aroma hops for 10 minutes
1 tsp. Irish Moss
lager yeast
3/4 cup corn sugar or krausen to bottle

* Original Gravity: 1.055
* Terminal Gravity: 1.012

Procedure:
Add 1.33 qts/lb, 6.65 qts, of water at 165 F to the
crushed grain. Stabilize at 151 F. Mash for 45 minutes, careful
not to allow the temperature above 158 F. Boost the
temperature to 160 F and sparge with 6.65 qts water at 165 F.
Add water, reserving space for the extract, and bring to a boil
for 30 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, to avoid
scorching, and add the extract and bittering hops. Boil this
mixture for 60 minutes. 15 minutes before the boil is over add
the Irish Moss. 10 minutes before the boil is over add the
aroma hops. Chill the beer to 55 F and pitch the yeast. Ferment
at between 50 and 55 F for two weeks. Transfer to a secondary
fermenter and age for 6 weeks to 6 months at 33 F. Bottle or
keg, as desired.

All Grain Oktoberfest for 5.5 gallons

10 lbs Pilsener Malt (use Klages or Lager malt as a substitute)
1 lb Cara-Pils Malt
8 oz 10 Lovibond Crystal Malt
4 oz 60 Lovibond Crystal Malt
4 oz 120 Lovibond Crystal Malt
9 HBU noble bittering hops (Saaz, Tettnanger, or Hallertauer)
for 60 minutes
1/2 oz Saaz aromatic hops for 10 minutes
1 tsp. Irish Moss
lager yeast
3/4 cup corn sugar or krausen to bottle

* Original Gravity: 1.059
* Terminal Gravity: 1.013

Procedure:
Perform either a double decoction or a temperature step
infusion mash. You will get a slightly higher extraction rate
with the traditional decoction mash, but an equally good beer
can be made with the simpler infusion mash. Use a
sacharification rest in the high range, 153 F is a good goal. For
good references see Brewing Lager Beer by Greg Noonan and
The Complete Handbook of Home Brewing by Dave Miller. For
this beer I favor the approach detailed by Miller. I use 1.33
qts/lb, around 4 gallons, of treated brewing water (preboiled). I
dough-in with this water at 135 F, stabilizing at 122 F for a 30
minute protein rest. Immediately boost to 155 F; after 30
minutes boost to 155F again. Sparge to collect 7 gallons. Boil
vigorously (very hard) for 30 minutes. Add the bittering hops
and maintain a rolling boil for 60 minutes. 15 minutes before
the boil is over add the Irish Moss. 10 minutes before the boil
is over add the aroma hops. Chill the beer to 55 F and pitch the
yeast. Ferment at between 50 and 55 F for two weeks. Transfer
to a secondary fermenter and age for 6 weeks to 6 months at
33 F. Bottle or keg, as desired.

Notes on Yeast and Fermentation

A real Marzen is fermented at cool temperatures with lager
yeast. Making an Oktoberfest ale at room temperature with
these recipes is going to turn out a tasty beer. But the elegant
smoothness associated with this beer is going to be missing.
Even a lagering of 2 weeks is going to make a big difference.

I must warn the home brewer away from dry yeasts. These are
full of dead yeast and bacteria. The widely available Wyeast
products are your best bet. The Wyeast No. 2308 is a
Weihenstephan (the Bavarian National Brewing Academy)
culture that produces a slightly fruity beer that is appropriate
for this style. The Wyeast No. 2206, called the Bavarian lager
yeast, is another Weihenstephan culture that accentuates malt
character. In preparing the Wyeast cultures it is important to
pitch an appropriate quantity. I recommend that the home
brewer begin the process 1 week before the brew date. Whack
the package as per the instructions. If the yeast is fresh the
package will be swollen within 48 hours. Prepare 1/2 gallon of
yeast starter by boiling 8 oz (weight) of dry malt extract in
water. Inoculate the chilled starter with the yeast from the
package. Ferment with an air lock until the yeast flocculates.
This should provide you with around 15 grams of yeast slurry.
To pitch the yeast pour the beer off and add the yeast
sediment to the fermenter with your beer. It is very important
to oxygenate your beer. This can be done by, carefully,
pouring your chilled wort from a great height into the
fermenter. All of the dissolved oxygen will be metabolized by
the yeast within 5 minutes. This amount of yeast, with good
oxygenation, will give you a quick start at 55 F. If you choose
to use less yeast, or have poor oxygenation, you will have a
slower start, especially at cooler temperatures.



___
X WinQwk 2.0 #0 X Unregistered Evaluation Copy

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Area Zymurgy, Msg#76, 22-10-92 00:15:00
From: Mark Melanson
To: All
Subject: Pumpkin Beer

Re: Pumpkin Beer
By: David Burns #0 @1:150/2 FIDOnet

> Every time I walk past a nearby grocery store and see all the pumpkins out
> front for 9 cents/lb, I keep thinking about what it would taste like in a
bee
> Does anybody have a good recipe for a pumpkin ale?

From Cat's Meow II

Chapter 13: Historical Interest

Pumpkin Ale

Source: Thomas Manteufel (tomm@pet.med.ge.com)
Digest: Issue #748, 10/25/91

Receipt for Pompion Ale:

Let the Pompion be beaten in a Trough and pressed as Apples. The expres-
sed Juice is to be boiled in a Copper a considerable Time and carefully
skimmed that there may be no Remains of the fibrous Part of the Pulp.
After that Intention is answered let the Liquor be hopped cooled fer-
mented &c. as Malt Beer.

Comments:

An anonymous recipe for pumpkin ale appeared in the papers of the
American Philosophical Society in February, 1771. The author notes that
he obtained this recipe from someone who claimed this tasted like malt
ale, with only a slight "twang". After two years in the bottle, this
twang had mellowed to an acceptable level.

And this tidbit from The New Complete Joy of Homebrewing:

Use cooked pumpkin and add it to a mash with active enzymes. Do not use
canned pumpkin to which preservatives have been added. Feel free to throw in
some pumpkin pie spices (ginger, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, cloves).

I could have sworn I saw a recipe around here. Oh well. Hope this helps.

--- VFIDO 5.52.04
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Area Zymurgy, Msg#84, 22-10-92 09:32:00
From: Pat Goulding
To: David Burns
Subject: Re: pumpkin beer

DB> about what it would taste like in a beer. Does anybody have
DB> a good recipe for a pumpkin ale?

6# light Dried Malt extract
1.5 oz Mt Hood pellets
.5 oz Tettnager pellets
6# pumpkin
1 Burton water slats
1 tsp Irish moss
.5 tsp Vanilla extract or .5 Vanill bean cut open
1 tsp Cinnamon
.5 tsp each Nutmeg, Allspice, Mace
.25 tsp Clove (ground)
Wyeast 1007 or 1214

Peel and seed pumpkin and bake @ 350 until soft. Heat 1.5 Gal. water
add malt, Mt Hood hops and pumpkin - boil for 30. Add salts and moss boil
for 15 more. Add finish hops boil for 5 min. Strain cool and pitch.
Add spices to SECONDARY. Prime .75 C corn sugar bottle and age for 3 to 4
weeks.
Recipe shamelessly stolen from Beer & Wine Hobby recipe of the month.
I haven't tried this.





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Area Zymurgy, Msg#81, 12-08-92 18:04:00
From: Roy Rudebusch
To: All
Subject: Munich dunkel recipe

Dear Fellow Zymurgists;

I would like to share my recipe for a Dunkel (yet to be brewed.)

This is one of the most difficult brews to brew _properly_. Homebrewers have
a tendency to use too much crystal in order to achieve the malty flavor and
aroma. And roasted grains, ie. black, roasted and chocolate, should be used
with a light hand also.

The malty character is achieved by using quality German 2-row and by 32-34F
lagering for at least 4 weeks.

Munich dark (dunkel):
5 gal OG 1050 TG 1014-1016
7.75# Ireks (German) Pilsner 2-row malt
1/2# Dark Ireks Crystal (60L)
1/2# M&F (English) dark caramel (60L)
4 oz M&F Black Patent (if domestic use only 2 oz.) 6 HBU Hall 60 min. Mash at
152F for 1 hour Good lager W-yeast (2206) ferment at 57F Max 50F min

For a partial mash, substitute a high quality pale unhopped malt extract,
like Northwestern Golden, be sure it is _fresh_! (6.6#) for the Pilsner pale
malt.

Prosit!

* OLX 2.2 * Cure insomia by putting hops in your pillow

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Area Zymurgy, Msg#87, 05-07-92 11:45:00
From: Roy Rudebusch
To: Charles King
Subject: Recipe request

CK----I recently tried a few mugs of German made SPATEN dark, and immediately
CK----fell in love with the taste. Does anyone have a recipe that CK----will
produce a brew similar to SPATEN dark? Thanks..

You just don't ask for too much do you?
This is one of the most difficult brews to brew _properly_. Homebrewers have
a tendency to use too much crystal in order to achieve the malty flavor and
aroma.

The malty character is achieved by using quality German 2-row and by 32-34F
lagering for at least 4 weeks. And, of course, doing everything else right.

Munich dark (dunkel):
5 gal OG 1050 TG 1014-1016
7.75# Ireks (German) Pilsner 2-row malt
1/2# Dark Ireks Crystal (60L)
1/2# M&F (English) dark caramel (60L)
4 oz M&F Black Patent (if domestic use only 2 oz.) 6 HBU Hall 60 min. Good
lager W-yeast (2206) Mash at 152F for 1 hour

If you was to go with a partial mash, substitute a high quality pale unhopped
malt extract (6.6#) for the Pilsner pale malt.

Cheers and Good Luck to ya'!

Roy Rudebusch


* OLX 2.2 * Cure insomia by putting hops in your pillow

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Area Zymurgy, Msg#91, 24-08-92 06:48:00
From: Roy Rudebusch
To: Tom Hamp
Subject: Coffee stout

Coffee Stout
5 gal OG 1056

6.6# Pale Extract
1# Dk Crystal
1# 2-row
1/2# Black Patent
8-12 HBUs for bittering

Mash and sparge grains at 150F. Top up to 5 gal. Bring to boil add hops, boil
30 min. Add extract, boil 10 min. For finishing add:

1 pot good black coffee (hold the cream and sugar)
1/2 oz Cascade pellets

Boil two min, then chill.

* OLX 2.2 * "You'll have a dozen doughnuts and a Coffee Stout?

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Area Zymurgy, Msg#100, 28-08-92 18:30:42
From: Mike Snyder
To: Roy Rudebusch
Subject: Root beer

Category 8, Topic 12
Message 90 Sun Jun 21, 1992
B.CAPLAN [GOODTIME Bob] at 17:41 EDT

I was asked to add the Alcoholic Root Beer recipe from the "Winners" book.
Here it is:

Hi-Res Root Beer
Wayne Waananen
Denver, Colorado
First Place, Herb Beer, 1987
(extract recipe)

Ingredients for 5 gallons
3 pounds Munton & Fison amber dry malt extract
2 1/5 pounds Premier hopped malt extract ssyrup
1/2 pound crystal malt
1/4 pound chocolate malt
1 1/2 teaspoons Zatarain's root beer extract
1 teaspoon Irish moss (30 minutes)
1 ounce Cascade leaf hops (60 minutes)
1/2 ounce Cascade leaf hops (10 minutes)
1/2 ounce Cascade leaf hops (after boil)
2 packages Muntona yeast
2/3 cup dextrose to prime

*Original specific gravity: 1.045
*Teminal specific gravity: 1.018
*Age when judged (since bottling): 2 months

Brewers specifics
Added 1/4 teaspoon root beer extract last 10 minutes of boil.
After 10 minutes removed from heat, added last of hops and force-
cooled with wort chiller. After reaching 90 degrees F (about 15
minutes) sparged into carboy and pitched yeast. Racked into
secondary at seven days. At keging added 1/4 teaspoon root beer
extract along with dextrose.

So there you go.... happy brewing!!!

GOODTIME Bob
------------

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Area Zymurgy, Msg#97, 01-09-92 10:15:06
From: Tom Jeffrey
To: Patrick Dubois
Subject: RE: Specialty Beers!

Here's one form The Cat's Meow 2.

Spiced Ale

Source: Ken Weiss (krweiss@ucdavis.edu)
Digest: Issue #743, 10/18/91

Ingredients:

7 pounds amber liquid extract (Alexanders, I think)
2 pounds crystal malt, cracked
1 pound chocolate malt, cracked
2 ounces Hallertauer hops
2 ounces Saaz hops
4 ounces fresh ginger, grated
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
1 pint starter of Wyeast American Ale yeast

Procedure:

Steep crystal and chocolate malt in hot, but not boiling, water for
about 1/2 hour. Strain out grains, sparge with hot water. Add extract,
stir until dissolved. Bring to a boil and add all the Hallertauer hops,
the ginger and the cinnamon. Boil 1 hour. Chill the wort, transfer to
primary, and add Saaz hops. Pitch the yeast. When the fermentation
slows, transfer to secondary fermentor. Prime with 3/4 cup corn sugar
and bottle when fermentation appears complete.

Comments:

Really nice balance of flavors. The dry-hopped Saaz blended with the
ginger and cinnamon aroma really well, and the ginger flavor is perfect.
The cinnamon didn't contribute much flavor, and seems to have led to a
muddier beer than I usually get. Probably would have been better to use
stick cinnamon instead of ground... The color is much lighter than I
would have expected.


Tom Jeffrey


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Area Zymurgy, Msg#92, 02-09-92 09:02:04
From: Andy Schoenhofer
To: Kevin Doshier
Subject: Octoberfest

KD> Since October seems to be rolling around I wanted to try an
>Octoberfest brew. Does anyone have a recipe that makes a good
>Octoberfest brew?? I would reallt appreciate it!!

According to what I read in Miller's Guide to World Beers, a
Maerzen is a type of Oktoberfest beer. It was trditionally brewed
in spring for consumption in fall, so I guess it's perfect.

In that case, the Papazian recipe for Winky Dink Maerzen works
pretty good (p. 164 in TCJOH. Here's what I used in my recipe
and it turned out good (not too carbonated, but I think I filled
the bottles up too much -- it's only my sixth batch. Nice creamy
head though.):

1.8 kg light Bierkeller malt extract
1.3 kg WineArt light dry extract
2.5 oz Hallertauer hops
250 g crystal malt (0.5 lb)
0.5 cup chocolate malt
yeast
1.25 cups light dry malt extract for priming

OG 1.042
FG 1.012

Papazian calls for 7 lbs of Bavarian Gold malt extract, but it was
cheaper for me to use some dry and I couldn't find Bavarian Gold
here in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada. My amount added up to 6.84 lbs.

I used Papazian's simple method of adding the cystal and
chocolate malt to 6 qts of cold water in the brew kettle,
straining most of it out after it boils and then adding the malt
extract and 2 oz of the hops. After an hour or so, add the
remaining hops for the last 2-5 minutes, sparge into fermenter,
top up and pitch the yeast when it's cooled.

No doubt some advantage might be realized by holding the mash at
various temperatures instead of just heating steadily to boiling.
I don't think it'd be much different with this small amount of
grain though.

Ends up a nice dark colour that you could adjust by reducing the
chocolate and bumping up the crystal maybe. I brewed it June 18
and the bottle I had yesterday was beautiful -- took about three
weeks to get rid of its latent sweetness from the malt priming (I
figure) and now it's very smooth and clear.

Now I'm trying to decide which Guinness Stout recipe I should try
from the five I have. What's a hobby without decisions?

Andy

* OLX 2.2 * 4 out of 5 people think the 5th is an idiot.

--- Maximus 2.00
* Origin: *THE K-W AMATEUR RADIO BBS-(VE3MTS)* ->HST 14.4<- (1:221/177)
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Area Zymurgy, Msg#10, 14-05-93 15:34:00
From: Eric Knudsen
To: All
Subject: STALE AMBER BEER (1)

An Eighteenth Century Beer

No-one knows what the the brews of two centuries ago were
like. Eighteenth century brewing practice was different from
twentieth, or even most nineteenth century technique. To produce
a beer that approximates those of the eighteenth century it is
necessary to consider how the beer was made, and then try to
guess what effect this would have. Porter, for example, would be
unlike the modern brews of that name. It would be very strong and
full bodied, and, as it was brewed solely with brown malt, have
an intense caramel taste, with none of the burnt flavours
associated with more highly coloured modern specialty malts. Most
surprisingly, it would also have a strong, and perhaps
intimidating, smoked flavour. I have chosen stale amber ale as my
objective, as it is easier to imitate with modern ingredients
than most other brews, was highly regarded in the eighteenth
century, and, I hate smoky beers!

Eighteenth century malts were kilned on screens over an open
fire, with the smoke passing directly through the grain. Coke, an
easily regulated fuel which produces very little smoke to flavour
or colour the grain, was used for pale and amber malts. Darker
malts were kilned over less controllable fires of straw, wood, or
fern, which introduced smoky flavours, and if the grain was to be
adequately dried, then it was inevitable that some of it would be
scorched. Before the commercial production of coke began in 1680,
all British ales were medium brown or darker in colour. Except
for London, where massed produced porters brewed with brown malt
dominated, most preferred the lighter malts:

"The amber-coloured is that which is dried in a medium
degree, between the pale and brown, as is very much in use, as
being free from either extreme. Its colour is pleasant, its taste
is agreeable, and its nature wholesome, which makes it preferred
by many as the best of malts."

Smoke flavoured beers have recently become popular with some
homebrewers, but eighteenth century opinion was not as
favourable:

"Pale and amber malts dried with coke ..., obtain a more
clean, bright, pale colour, than if dried with any other fuel,
because there is not smoke to darken and sully their skins or
husks, and give them an ill relish which those malts have, more
or less, that are dried with straw, wood, or fern. The coke or
Welsh coal also makes more true and complete malt than any other
fuel, because its fire gives both a gentle and certain heat,
whereby the corns in all their parts gradually dried; and
therefore of late these malts have gained such a reputation, that
great quantities have been consumed in most parts of the nation
for their wholesome nature and sweet fine taste."

"Brown malts are dried with straw, wood, and fern , the
straw dried is best; the wood sort has a most ungrateful taste,
and few can bear it, but the necessitous, and those that are
accustomed to its strong smoky tang; yet it is much used in some
of the western parts of England. The fern malt is also attended with a
rank disagreeable taste from the smoke of this vegetable."

All eighteenth century malts were diastasic malts - that is,
they contained diastasic enzymes and could be mashed to produce
sweet wort. Brewers normally used only one specific type of malt
for each kind of beer, ale or porter. Our modern highly flavoured
and coloured specialty malts were not possible until D. Wheeler
invented the cylindrical drum roaster incorporating water sprays
in 1816, which allowed the very precise roasting of malts.
Attempts to produce malt darker than brown malt over an open fire
resulted in a runaway reaction which reduced the malt to charcoal
or ashes. During the nineteenth century brewers moved to more
efficient recipes that used pale malt as a source of enzymes and
starch, with very small additions of non-diastasic specialty
malts and grains to adjust the colour and flavour.

Modern brewers use a single mash followed by sparging, which
rinses the remaining sugars from the grain. Sparging became
normal practice only in the nineteenth century, previously
multiple mashes were used to maximize sugar extraction. Double
mashes were most common, but sometimes there were as many as four
consecutive mashes of the same malt. The wort produced by each
mash was brewed separately. The first mashes would contain most
of the extractable sugars, the wort from the final mashes was
used to produce small beer or ale. Much of the small beer was
consumed by children, it was considered more wholesome than
water. The starting gravity of the beer brewed from the main or
first mash was typically between 1.075 and 1.110, that of the
small ale or beer brewed from the second mash about 1.035 to
1.055, similar to the strength of modern beer. For the
homebrewer, malt extract makes it easy to obtain the high
gravities required, without having to make a secondary brew to
use up the otherwise wasted sugars. It is no longer considered
politically correct to use children to consume the surplus small
beer.

The hops used in the eighteenth century were presumably low
in bitterness, like the traditional Goldings and Fuggles strains,
which were originally used as bittering hops as well as for
aroma. Modern high alpha strains should be avoided. It was
recommended that several additions of hops should be made:

"... we advise the boiling [of] two parcels of fresh hops in
each copper of ale-wort; and, if there were three for keeping
beer, it would be so much the better for the taste, health of
body, and longer preservation of the beer in a sound smooth
condition."

"Hops have a fine grateful bitter, which makes the drink
easy of digestion; they also keep it from running into such
cohesions as would make it ropy, vapid, and sour; and therefore
are not only of great use in boiled, but in raw worts, and to
preserve them sound till they can be put into the copper, and
afterwards in the tun, while the drink is working."

Up to the late nineteenth century, the word stale meant old
and mature, and stale beer was more expensive than new beer. This
beer was originally brewed using only amber malt; the beer's
name refers to the type of malt used rather than the colour of
the beer, which is darker than a modern bitter but lighter than
most modern brown ales. Modern amber malt is intended to be used
in small quantities to modify the colour and flavour of a brew.
It has few diastasic properties, and cannot be used as the sole
source of malt in a brew. It cannot be substituted for eighteenth
century amber malt. The mixture of pale malt extract, crystal
malt, and chocolate malt used in this recipe is an attempt to
approximate the flavour and taste of the original malt. Additions
such as black malt or roasted barley should be avoided as they
would introduce anachronistic burnt flavours. This is a beer
rather than an ale. In the eighteenth century beers were much
more highly hopped than ales, and were usually of a higher
gravity. Beers were more suited to long storage and being served
stale than were ales. Before the sixteenth century, ales were
usually not hopped at all.

I suspect an eighteenth century brewer would find this
recipe rather weak, more suited to being given to the scullery
maids for breakfast than served to the high table with dinner.
The only excuse I can offer is that we live in less heroic times.

I used two main sources of information for this article. The
first (1771) edition of the Encycopaedia Britannica was an
ambitious project attempting to record the world's accumulated
knowledge - the first volume only covers subjects beginning with
A and B. Then the money ran out, and all other subjects were
compressed into just two additional volumes! Fortunately, brewing
begins with the letter B, and is covered in detail. All quotes
are from this source. Old British Beers and How to Make Them was
written by Dr. John Harrison and members of the Durden Park Beer
Club after years of research and practical experimentation.
--- TBBS v2.1/NM
* Origin: Certa Cito BBS. Perth, Ontario. (613) 264-9093 (1:256/105)
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Area Zymurgy, Msg#11, 14-05-93 15:35:00
From: Eric Knudsen
To: All
Subject: STALE AMBER BEER (2)

Stale Amber Beer

Ingredients: To brew four Imperial gallons, (or five U.S.
gallons) with a starting gravity of 1.065, and a final gravity of
1.015.

7 lb. United Canadian Malt Ltd. dried pale malt extract (made
in England)
1 lb. Canada Malting Co. Ltd. Carastan (Crystal) malt (40 L)
4 oz. Chocolate malt
1 tsp. Calcium Sulphate (gypsum water treatment)
1 tsp. Irish Moss (copper finings)
4 oz. Willamette Hops (loose from Freshops 4.4% Alpha Acid -
add just after the beginning of the boil)
1 oz. Fuggles Hops (loose from Freshops - 4.2% AA - add 15
min. from end of boil)
1 oz. Tettnanger Hops (loose from Freshops - 5.1% AA - add at
end of boil)
1 pkg Wyeast 1098 liquid ale yeast culture

Procedure:
Crush the crystal and chocolate malt coarsely. Steep malt in
two quarts warm (not boiling) water to which a quarter teaspoon
of calcium sulphate has been added (this will limit the amount of
tannin leached from the husks). After fifteen minutes, strain out
husks and pour the resulting extract into the boiling vessel,
along with four Imperial gallons of water, the remaining calcium
sulphate, and the dry malt extract. Boil wort fifteen minutes and
then add the Willamette hops. Continue to boil for ah hour and a
half, add the Irish moss and the Fuggles hops, and then boil for
a final fifteen minutes (total boil time is two hours). Add the
Tettnanger hops as the heat is turned off.

Cool wort rapidly, strain out hops and trub, aerate (stir in
air) and then pour into a standard four imperial gallon/five U.S.
gallon carboy with the activated yeast and enough water to fill
carboy completely (a pail could be used as a container for the
first stage of fermentation if you wish). Ferment in a cool dark
place for one week - using first an overflow tube, and when
fermentation subsides, an airlock to seal the carboy.

Siphon beer into another identical carboy. Cooled boiled
water should be added to ensure carboy is completely filled. Age
at least four months before kegging or bottling. If the ale is to
be kept for more than a year before it is consumed, an excellent
idea if you have sufficient patience, it develops a more complex,
vinous flavour. I am not using any priming as it will be served
from a soda keg with minimal carbonation. If bottling you could
add about two and a half to three ounces of demerara sugar. It
would be a good idea to add a fresh yeast culture at the same
time to get consistent carbonation.

In the eighteenth century this type of beer was served in
pewter or ceramic tankards at cellar temperature. Haze was not a
problem. The more cautious modern brewer, who may not be able to
control serving temperature, or is offering the beer to tacky
drinkers who insist on being able to see what they are consuming,
may add two tablespoons of polyclar to the secondary.

This beer was brewed in the middle of January, 1993, and
will be served on tap at CAMRA Ottawa's Spring Homebrew
Competition. It will be held by the Ottawa Homebrew Committee on
May 29, 1993, 7:00 PM at the Dempsey Community Centre, Russell
Road, Ottawa.
--- TBBS v2.1/NM
* Origin: Certa Cito BBS. Perth, Ontario. (613) 264-9093 (1:256/105)
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Area Zymurgy, Msg#65, 27-05-93 18:52:46
From: John Eustace
To: Kevin Mott
Subject: English Brown Ale

On (Tue 25 Ma) Kevin Mott wrote to All...

KM> Does anyone out there have a good traditional English Brown Ale recipe
KM> they
KM> want to share? I've got Papazian's book but one of the local gurus
KM> (brew-ru's?) said that his recipes were not representitive of the
KM> stated
KM> styles.

I agree with the "local guru" of brew. Miller, however, is quite true
to style. What follows is his extract recipe for Brown Ale (actually
Mild):

Ingredients:
3.3 lbs unhopped British Malt extract syrup
1 lb British Pale dry extract
8 oz British Crystal Malt
4 oz chocolate malt
1 lb dark brown sugar (added to wort)
6 AAUs Fuggles, Goldings, or Northern Brewer
1 tsp Yeast nutrient
2 Packets of Munton & Fison Yeast or 1 packet of either EDME or
Whitbread (If you use liquid yeasts, Wyeast #1098 will give you an
appropriate flavour profile for the style).


(Note: there are no finishing hops in a traditional British Brown Ale.
If you'd like finishing hops in there, I'd recommend a 1/2 oz of
Goldings. That would make for a very light hoppy aroma, suitable to
style.)

Cheers
JE

--- PPoint 1.60
* Origin: Wigan Pier, Kingston, ONT. (1:249/109.2)
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Area Zymurgy, Msg#69, 26-05-93 16:34:00
From: Kent Taylor
To: Rodney Green
Subject: ENGLISH ESB

Rodney:

I am glad everyone enjoyed the ESB, it sure was a hit around here. I have
just recently brewed an American Red and an American Brown using this same
basic recipe. They all turned out very nicely. So, I think that you will
be able to duplicate this with the same results.

Grain:

Klages pale malt 7 lbs 3 oz

Cara Pils - dextrin 1 lbs 6 oz

Crystal 40l 15 oz

Mash water: After adding 1 tsp. of gypsum I adjusted the pH to 5.53 and
heated to 170 degrees. I added approximately 11 quarts of water to the
grist.

Mash: Strike temperature was 154 degrees and a pH of 5.19. Mash time - 2
hours.

Sparge: Sparge water pH was adjusted to 5.45 and heated to 180 degrees in
order to achieve a final sparge strike temp. of 170 degrees and grain was
sparged for 45 min.

Boil: I added 1 tsp of gypsum at the beginning and 1 tsp of irish moss at
30 before the end. Total boil time was 75 minutes.

Hops: Willamette 4.3 alpha - 2 oz at 60 minutes(before end)

Willamette 4.3 alpha - 1 oz at 15 min

Tettnanger 4.2 alpha(whole) - 1 oz at End

Yeast: Chico 1056 Wyeast in a starter. I have had just as good of luck, if
not better, with 1028 London ale yeast in a starter.

Original gravity:1.049 pH:4.96 Terminal gravity:1.013 pH:4.48

Fermentation: In soda keg - 10 days - 60 degrees.

After fermentation: One week at 32-34 degrees

Filter: Beer was filtered through a .5 micron absolute cartridge type
filter.

Carbonation: Chilled beer (32-34 degrees) was put under 10psi and rocked
200+ times.


All strike temps are critical but start temps should be adjusted to your
brewing methods.

After initial blow-off period I closed the keg and periodically let out CO2
to maintain 13-14psi. When temp was dropped to 32-34 I would periodically
add CO2 to maintain 10psi. Be carefull, if you do not let the CO2 out often
enough then you will over carbonate the beer. I did that once and had to
reattach the blow-off tube.

If I have forgotten anything, please post me a note.

BTW: I got the ribbon and score sheets - thanks. Did you say something
about a mug?

Good brewing.

KT
---
þ VbReader V1.3 þOk, now for a quick backuÇAÑ&ý#^1sð

--- TMail v1.31.2
* Origin: The Nashville Exchange * 24 Lines * 615-383-0727 (1:116/19)
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Area Zymurgy, Msg#70, 03-06-93 19:47:16
From: Luke Enriquez
To: All
Subject: Melomel Recipe (LONG)

Hello All!

I found this in a mead lovers digest archive from Internet. I thought you
might be interested.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 13:53:37 EDT
From: loc@bostech.com
Subject: plum melomel recipe (long)

I've gotten a few requests to post this recipe. I've added some of my
process also to give you an idea of my mead making. As you read this
you'll see that I make a product which is alot like wine.

Some general comments about the recipe. If you want the end product
to be sweeter you can add more honey. But do not get the original
gravity above 1.100 or you will have problems with stuck fermentation
or sluggish fermentation. You can add an much as 50lbs of plums if
you want this to be _really_ plummy. Relative to original gravity,
the higher the gravity the longer the product will need to bottle age.
I use acid blend to balance out the end product. This is strickly a
personal preference. If you really want to get into it and check the
SO2 levels there are test kits available for that, this will ensure
that you have the right amount of sulfites for the end product you are
making.

Having made these statements here is my recipe for Plum Melomel.
Enjoy!

Plum Melomel
To make: 5 gallons
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
7.5lbs Citrus Honey (Orange Blossom is the best or whatever )
(honey you like to use )
25-30lbs Plums (halved and pitted is best, but at least halved)
(if you can freeze them for a couple of weeks )
(before you use them you'll get a better juice )
(yield because freezing breaks down the cell )
(walls )
3-4 tsp. Yeast Nutrient
1 pkg Pectic Enzyme
1 pkg Champagne Yeast
Acid Blend (you'll need an Acid Testing Kit to )
(determine how much to add. amounts )
(depend greatly on the plums )

The Day Before:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Start the yeast by boiling 1.5cup of orange juice with 1.5 cup of
water. Take it off the heat and add 1 tsp of yeast nutrient. Cool
the mixture. When cool put into a sulfited bottle add the yeast and
agitate occasionally over the next 24 hours.

The Day of:
~~~~~~~~~~~
Make sure the plums are at room temp do not heat them to do
this, just let them come up to room temp naturally. Dissolve the
honey in 2 gallons of water, do not let it boil, just get the water
hot enough to dissolve the honey. Combine the plums, honey water,
yeast nutrient, pectic enzyme and 2 more gallons of water in a large
open primary fermenter. Mix well and take a gravity reading add water
until the gravity reading is between 1.080 and 1.090.(I believe 1
pint of water will drop 1 gallon of must 0.010, I can't remember
exactly) Once the gravity is correct add the yeast stir it up cover
lightly. Stir the fruit down twice a day, once in the AM and once in
the PM.

Some Days Later:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Check the gravity after about 5 days. When the gravity reaches 1.020,
rack and press the must into a sulfited glass secondary fermenter and
add 1/2 camdon('sp) tablet per gallon of must to prevent oxidation. If the
fermenter is not full to within 1/2" of the lip use sulfited marbles
to make up the difference. Fit a fermentation lock on the bottle and
let it rip.

When the gravity reaches 1.000 rack again into a clean sulfited carboy
again adding 1/2 camdon('sp) tablet per gallon for the same reason. Again
if the mead does not come within 1/2" of the lip use sulfited marbles
to make up the difference. Test the acid level at this point using
your handy dandy acid testing kit and adjust the acid to a level of
.55. The kit will tell you given what your acid level is at how much
to add.

When the fermentation stops, let it sit for a few days to let the lees
settle out. Rack into a clean sulfited carboy adding 1 camdon('sp) tablet
per gallon of product and fine with a Bentonite mixture. Let this sit
for 10 days. Rack the final product (leaving the lees behind as
usual) into a clean sulfited carboy and let bulk age for three months.
If you have a spare frig you can put the carboy in, the last month of
the bulk age put the mead in the frig to chill proof it.

Bottling:
~~~~~~~~~
If you are lucky enough to have a wine filter. Filter the mead with
fine filters and bottle. Let bottle age for at least 6 months (1 year
is better). Enjoy.

- -----------------------------------------------------------
Roger Locniskar Boston Technology Inc.
<loc@bostech.com> Wakefield, MA 01880
- -----------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Regards,
Luke

--- FMail 0.94
* Origin: To see the point, is to miss it completely (3:635/563)
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Area Zymurgy, Msg#73, 04-06-93 23:36:02
From: Luke Enriquez
To: All
Subject: Cloning Sierra Nevada Pale Ale...

Hello All!
Most of us here dont have access to the Home Brewing Digesr of
Internet. While it was agreed some time ago, that it would be too costly to
feed all of the HBD into this echo, I feel sorry for those who cant get to
it. Therefore, I hope you dont mind if I "snip" the best articles from the
HBD,
and repost them here for all to see. I dont want to do this is people are
going to start flames about it, etc. That would end up worse than the
benefits.
But if no one objects, I cant see any problems involved! All feedback
welcomed!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 10:12:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: tony@spss.com (Tony Babinec 312 329-3570)
Subject: snpa revisited

Here is some info and speculation on Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and how
one might try to clone it. SNPA is surely worth emulating, yet it
has an elegance of flavor that is a bit elusive. I can't claim to
have cloned it, but am iterating toward it!

Note that Sierra Nevada Draught Ale is SG 1.048 while Sierra Nevada
Pale Ale (bottled) is SG 1.052. The Draught also tastes a bit
sweeter to me than the bottled.

Malts used are U.S. 2-row, dextrin malt (U.S. cara-pils), and
crystal malt. I don't know the proportions used at Chico, but it
seems to me that you shouldn't be too heavy-handed with the crystal
malt, as I don't find a pronounced caramel flavor in SNPA, in
contrast to, say, Mendocino's Red Tail Ale.

Hops are Perle for bittering and Cascade for flavor/aroma. Perles
are a fine general-purpose medium-alpha bittering hop, while
Cascades are signature hops in SNPA, Liberty Ale, and other
American pale ales.

Yeast is Wyeast "American" ale or bottle-cultured SNPA.

An all-grain recipe for a 5-gallon batch goes as follows (your
mileage may vary):

8 pounds U.S. 2-row pale malt
1 pound U.S. cara-pils
0.5 pounds crystal malt 80L

0.8 ounces Perle (alpha 6.5) at 60 minutes
0.5 ounces Cascade (alpha 6.3) at 30 minutes
0.5 ounces Cascade (alpha 6.3) at 2 minutes
0.5 ounces Cascade final addition (see below)

yeast is Chico yeast

In the mash, aim for a starch conversion temperature of 153 - 155
degrees F for some residual sweetness in the beer. As for the hop
schedule, factors such as hop freshness and vigor of boil will
affect the final beer. To my palate, SNPA is a medium-bitter beer,
not high-bitter beer, so something like 35 IBUs seems to be a good
target.

Regarding that final hop addition, I believe that Chico runs the
hot wort through a hopback with some fresh hops in it, so you might
rig up a homebrewer's gadget equivalent of a hopback. Or, you
might add the final addition at flame off and let the hot wort sit
for 10 minutes with the lid on before chilling. Or, you might try
dry-hopping. I'm not claiming that these will produce an
equivalent effect, but they are all attempts to give the beer some
of the requisite hop flavor and aroma.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hope it lead to some enlightenment...
Regards,
Luke

--- FMail 0.94
* Origin: To see the point, is to miss it completely (3:635/563)
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Area Zymurgy, Msg#73, 10-06-93 11:00:36
From: James Sparks
To: All
Subject: Smithwick type

This is a nice pale ale that closely resembles Smithwicks :-)
Crystal malt 500 g
Caramel malt 200 g
Chocolate malt 100 g
Flaked barley 120 g
Goldings LEAF hops 1 3/4 oz Boil
East Kent Golding LEAF hops 1/2 oz finishing
Burton Water Salts 20 g (for Kingston water)
Munton and Fison Unhopped Light Malt Extract 3 kg
Andovin super nutrient 2 tsp
Yeast Lab liquid yeast (A05) Irish Ale.
OR WYeast (1338) European Ale.
Munton and Fison Light Dry malt 2 cups (for priming bottles)

Lightly crush malt grains and add to 15 liters of water. Add flaked barley
and bring to boil. Strain out grains and barley. Add Boiling hops and boil
for 40 min. and remove. Add finishing hops and boil for 10 min. and remove.
Move to fermenting pail and add water to the 23 liter mark and pitch yeast
when temp is 20 C. HINT - A NYLON GRAIN BAG AND HOP BAGS COME IN HANDY.


O.G. 1.045
Enjoy and Cheers !


--- Maximus 2.01wb
* Origin: From Beyond the Event Horizon (613-353-6495) (1:249/109)
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Area Zymurgy, Msg#51, 10-06-93 23:19:00
From: Mark Engebretson
To: All
Subject: stout recipe

For those of you collecting recipes...I offer this:

Mark's Oatmeal Butterscotch Chewies

Ingredients:
6 lbs Great Western 2 row
1 lb Munich Malt 10L
1 lb Vienna
1 lb Crystal 80L
1/2 lb Chocolate Malt
3/4 lb Roasted Barley
1/4 lb Black Patent
4 lbs Pale Malt Extract
1 inch licorice
1 1/2 lb Quaker Old Fashion Oats
1 cup Mild Molasses
1 lb Brown Sugar
2 oz Galena Hops (pellets) @12.8%
Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale
1/2 cup Corn Sugar for priming

Procedure:
I used a David Miller style mash, using a strike temperature of
136F and immediately raising to 156F for the starch rest. At 45
minutes, the mash passed the iodine test (GW is a fast converter). All
grains and Oatmeal were mashed together. Oatmeal makes for a slow
sparge. I did the mash with 3 gallons of water and sparged with six. I
ended up with 6 gallons of wort. This was a bit much, as I was aiming
for five. The problem was that I failed to take into account the 4 lbs
of extract (not really a problem :-}). Next time I will cut the sparge
to 5 gallons. I brewed for 75 minutes, the hops, extract, molasses,
brown sugar, and licorice were added at the 60 minute mark.

Comments:
I bottled this one just a week ago, and it tastes excellent. In
fact, it was smooth at bottling. I have never had a stout taste so good
so young! Must be the Oatmeal. It cleanly coats the throat. No
excessive bitterness, or burned flavor. Lots of flavor, but very well
balanced.

Warning:
For novice brewers (I still consider myself novice), I have a
few words of advice. When brewing with Oatmeal, or at least this
recipe, use a full size 1 1/4" blow-off hose. The oatmeal makes for a
very foamy blow-off while the high gravity and Wyeast 1084 creates a lot
of energy.

Specifics:
Original Gravity: 1.084 (6 gallons)
Final Gravity: 1.023 (about 8% alc by vol)
Primary Ferment: 8 days

--- RAMail 3.2
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Area Zymurgy, Msg#73, 10-06-93 11:37:00
From: Luke Enriquez
To: Tony Laughton
Subject: Oktoberfest - Recipe Ideas

Hello Tony!

This might answer your question a bit easier.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1993 14:04:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: tony@spss.com (Tony Babinec 312 329-3570)
Subject: oktoberfest recipe ideas

Most German Oktoberfest beers have a starting gravity of 1.052 -
1.055, which puts them more in line with the AHA "Vienna" style.
These beers are amber-colored (aim for 10L - 12L), malt-accented
lagers. From the point of view of recipe formulation, you have the
choice of using crystal malts, munich malt, or some combination.

In their book, George and Laurie Fix present recipes using crystal
malt. Depending on your setup and extract efficiency, for a 5-
gallon brew you might use a grain bill such as the following:

8 - 9 pounds pilsner malt
6 oz crystal malt 10L
6 oz crystal malt 60L
6 oz crystal malt 120L

The above grain bill specifies pilsner malt, and you should use the
finest German or Belgian pilsner malt. Lacking that, use a good
U.S. 2-row pale malt. The crystal malt blend gives the beer the
requisite color, body, and sweetness.

In subsequent articles and postings to HBD, George Fix has reported
using mixes of DeWolf-Cosyns Cara-Vienne (20L) and Cara-Munich
(80L) malts. In the first issue of Brewing Techniques, it appears
that George Fix has settled on a mix of Cara-Vienne and Special B.
Using the BRF program, the following grain bill should produce a
color in the desired range:

9 pounds pilsner malt
1 pound Cara-Vienne (20L)
1.5 ounces Special B

As an alternative to the above grain bills, one could explore the
use of Munich malt, which should give color and malt flavor. As an
example, consider the following grain bill:

5 pounds pilsner malt
4 pounds Munich malt
1 pound U.S. cara-pils
1/4 pound crystal malt 40L

Note the high fraction of Munich malt in the grain bill. As U.S.
Munich malt can be of variable quality, brewers have raised the
concern that the resulting beer will suffer from grain harshness.
However, with the availability of DeWolf-Cosyns Munich malt, as
well as German Munich malts, surely such a recipe should be tried.

For hops, use fine European Noble hops, and hop to 22 - 25 IBUs (or
roughly 6 AAUs). As an example, the hop schedule might be:

0.85 ounces Tettnang (alpha=4.5) at 45 minutes until end of boil
1/2 ounce Styrian Goldings (alpha=4.9) at 30 minutes until end of
boil
1/2 ounce Saaz (alpha=3) at 15 minutes until end of boil

This style is not a bitter style, so total hopping is kept down.
Nor are pronounced hop flavor or aroma desired, so the last hopping
is 15 minutes before end of boil.

Use a good lager yeast and proper fermentation temperatures.
Wyeast "Bavarian" lager works very well. Ferment at 50 degrees F
or so. Rack the beer to secondary, and lager for 4 to 8 weeks.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Regards,
Luke

--- FMail 0.94
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Area Zymurgy, Msg#67, 13-06-93 12:33:52
From: Rick Bastedo
To: All
Subject: Honey Lager

Hi, All
I thought I'd send out an update on the Honey Lager I started March 22.
I let it lager in the basement 2 months, racked it 3 times then bottled.
{
The temp down there at the start was about 45 F, and it gradually
warmed to about 55 F before I bottled.

The recipe was : 10 lbs light malt extract
4 lbs Clover honey
1 oz Cascade hops
1 Pk Wyeast American Lager Yeast
Yeast Nutrients

O.G. was 1.08
F.G. is 1.008
Est. Alcohol 10 % (and it feels like it too) 0 0
\/
\/\/\/
This has only been in the bottle for 3 weeks and it already tastes
incredible and has a GREAT head of foam, especially if poured too fast !
Anyway, this was my first experiment with honey, and now I know it
won't be the last...maybe a strwberry Melomel next...Sounds yummy !
L8R and Great Brewing to All.

--- Maximus 2.01wb
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Shorty.

Best advice I got was to ditch the yeast that brew kits come with and use the appropriate Safale yeast that is happiest working the the ambient temps you have. There are heaps of varieties that all have their own happy temperatures. Go chat to the local brewing supplies place and grill the owner for info.

Also, don't be affraid to chuck in some extra hops, try roasted malts etc.

I brew in stubbies so we don't drink so much. Just started again last week after a break from brewing for four or so years. Got a stout on the bubble at the moment...

My farther in Law Jack Faber who lives in Laidley (queensland) has writen a book about a year ago on Home brew.He is after all the queensland Home brew champion for the last 5 years running. Make a stonking brew and love going to see them as we are always sat up the shed drink beer all day

Mate stick with the kits first up, that brewing from scratch is too time consuming and very hit and miss if not an expert, that's where all the bad stories come from about home brew.

Only thing to remember with the kits is, clean everything, once you've mastered the bottling thing, investigate kegging your brew, this is the best way to do home brew it's less time consuming as there is no bottling involved and from the time you start your brew to your first drink is about 9 days

Bottling will take 4 weeks.

Next time your go to the local home brew shop ask him about kegging, you won't go back to bottling, it is expensive first up but once your setup it's really worth it.

Baz.

Hi Easo
As others have said,cleanliness is the go.
Get the pink steri,much more user friendly,the metabisulphate isnt very nice,can taste taint your brew and kill your yeast if not rinsed thoroughly.
Yeast,get Safale(blue packet) for warm weather brewing,it will emulsify the dregs,you will end up with a jelly cake in the bottom of your fermenter,makes for a clearer brew.In winter if you can get the temp low use saflager(yellow pack).Both should be in a fridge at the local homebrew shop.
KEGGING.Start saving for a kit asap,I should have got mine many years ago.$350 to $400 for 2 kegs,regulator,hoses,beer tap(get the pluto beergun,much better)and connects.You will need to get a bottle of foodgrade C02 from BOC,my E size(about 2 feet tall) lasts around 2 years.Depending on how greedy your mates are,you will need to get at least 1 more keg to age the beer better.Out of the keg,its drinkable after 2 days out of the fermenter!!!! but better aged.
You will soon get sick of bottles,steralising them,trying not getting the dregs stired up,then there is the explosion risk if you over sugar or bottle before the brew is finished.I used plastic coke bottles,1.25l are good pour a middy the rest goes into a jug and put it in the freezer.New lids available from homebrew shops.
All the best
Andrew

Cheers lads, Im off to a good start then. I'll post when the first batch is ready for testing