Thread: Disco 3/4 Automatic Transmission FAQ - 6 Speed

Originally Posted by jonesy63

Just for reference, I bought a steel sump conversion kit direct from ZF yesterday, as well as a mechatronic plug seal. $271 for that - which included the BMW X5 steel sump with drain plug. I also got 6L of ZF Lifeguard Fluid 6 from Repco (using NRMA membership discount of 10%) for $189 - or $31.50 a litre.

I have been refused service at 2 auto transmission shops - as they know there are problems with these ZF (as previously mentioned by Graeme) and don't want to be a part of the "fun". I don't want a LR dealership to have their "technicians" perform the work - as I am sure this is way below their obvious skills (at $150/hr!).

Good luck to all with their autos!

Thanks for the post Jonesy.
I'm keen on doing the same to my 07 RRS. And so is a mate who also has a 07 RRS
We have access to a hoist and my mate is a fitter.
Was it a difficult job?... Any time estimate?.. Do we still need to plug it into a tech tool after??.
Thanks
Rob.

Originally Posted by Rob king

Was it a difficult job?... Any time estimate?.. Do we still need to plug it into a tech tool after??

On a hoist - not difficult. I watched the auto mechanic do the work - waited about 10 mins for it to cool down (after I drove about 20 mins there), then removed automatic box shield, placed large catch pan underneath, undid the plastic auto sump bolts and snapped off the plastic lug from the filter. Waited about 5 mins for it to drain, wipe down and fit new filter/sump/gasket. Sucked 1L of ATF in at a time, then filled. Then he got a step-ladder out and climbed up into car - started and ran through all gears. Hopped down from car and checked temp - filled a bit more and wiped off excess and put cover back on. Probably an hour or so all up.

He didn't have a diagnostic tool for LR, but I did. Pretty sure it is recommended to reset gearbox adaptations after ATF is changed. That is what I did anyway.

There is a ZF document describing this process - can't seem to find it at the moment.

Jonesy, I thought I'd read that a chassis cross member made the sump fitting difficult. Did this get removed as part of the process or did I mis-read something?

Scott

Hi Scott,
It is a problem - only when fitting the original plastic sump with integrated filter - which can't be separated from the sump. With the steel sump, the filter can be slipped onto the spigot separate to the sump.

P.S. Hope you made it home to Brisvegas ok!

Cheers,
Rob

I have had some problems with a harsh shift from 1-2 when cold and also if I sink the boot at all times. At one point for a short distance I had snatching in first or second.
Took it the dealer, but because it had an aftermarket sump on all they wanted to do was replace the mechatronics (valve block assy) at a cost of $6000.00. plus labour etc.
They then suggested the transmission specialist who serviced the transmission and that they would remove the valve block and send it away for testing (in QLD I think) and replace any faulty solenoids and seals.
I have been told that it is now fixed and my wallet is only lighter by $1800 total.
As I will not get back from a job possibly until Wednesday or Thursday I will not be able to tell how it is until then. I will report later as I have to then drive from Coffs to Albion Park for a job next week.
I was worried I could be up for a torque converter or complete gearbox.

I replaced my sump with a steel one and what I oil I could (4.8l) last week. It was not a fun job but my tolerance for mechanical work is dwindling I think.

I did it on a hoist and it took me 4 hours, the gap at both the front and rear of the sump is quite tight, none of your standard ratchet drives and sockets will fit in the space, I wish I'd had a Torx40 in a traditional allen key type configuration to access the tight space bolts that would have helped a lot.

The sump came with traditional bolts with a 10mm head, so at least they could be done up with a spanner but it was slow going, I've since had thoughts of a socket with some string wrapped around it that I would pull with one hand while holding the socket up on the bolt with the other hand just to get the majority of the way. It should be noted that the supplied bolts are shorter than the original ones because the sump is thinner around the edges.

You will also need some gasket adhesive, maneuvering the sump back into place is tricky, and the gasket will give you the erts. I think if I were to do it again I would have another look at taking out the rear cross member.

At the end of the day I'm glad I've done it, the parts have been sitting on my shelf waiting for me to have the time and temerity to do it, meanwhile I have been stressed about the possible state of my oil.

I think if I were to do it again better value could be gained by simple double or triple changing the oil thru the original sump plug (I didn't realize it had one) I know the filter doesn't get changed but at least 75-85% of the oil would get changed. (doing it 2-3 times) That would at least give me peace of mind until I actually did get around to changing the sump it self.

Have just picked my car up after the valve body repair.
"Test and replace dampeners, valve body plate and machine test for correct pressures and operation"
I cleared the adaptation settings with the IID tool and it drives like a new one. So far I am very happy with it.

Originally Posted by Plane Fixer

Have just picked my car up after the valve body repair. "Test and replace dampeners, valve body plate and machine test for correct pressures and operation" I cleared the adaptation settings with the IID tool and it drives like a new one. So far I am very happy with it.

How many kms was on transmission?