Thread: Disco 3/4 Automatic Transmission FAQ - 6 Speed

I one is going to remove the plastic pan/filter combo, and replace it with the separate oil filter and metal pan, that is when breaking off the vertical plastic "pipe" has some merit.

The reason one has to lift the engine/tranny is to get enough vertical space between the tranny body and that frame cross member to get the old plastic pan out, (if one does not break off the vertical pipe), and more significantly, the new plastic one in with the pipe intact.

If one is installing the metal pan, then one does not need to lift the tranny as one can break off the pipe to remove the plastic pan and the metal pan will slide in, (not easily), utilizing the existing space. That is one of the advantages of the metal pan changeover. Also the metal pan uses shorter pan attachment screws, (21 of them), do do not reuse the longer plastic pan screws.

Regardless of pan, one has to make certain that the vertical oil pipe seal located at the top of the vertical tube comes out when the vertical tube is removed. Two seals is not twice as good.

Below is a link to some material I have found on our ZF 6HP26X transmission. Note the use of the letter X. That is apparently what ZF calls our tranny whereas Land Rover tends to not use the X.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - ZF 6HP26 Automatic Transmission in LR3

Just curious if your references to changing the transmission oil refer only to the gearbox or include the transfer case?

The whole discussion re of changing oil, (or not), in the drive train stems from the Land Rover recommendations which for the most part tend to be seen/viewed/interpreted as never.

My view is that LR does not wish to pay for any oil changes to anything while the vehicle is either under lease or under warranty. In the case of the engine, they make it simple - free oil changes for a while and then you pay; the rest of the drive train, the inference is "for life". Land Rovers interpretation of when life ends is not before the end of the warranty or lease.

In brief, yes, change the oil in the transfer case and the differentials. As to how often, good question. If you ford creeks or live in a high humidity area, the differentials seem to absorb water somehow, hence maybe if not every year, then every couple of years. Re the transfer case, maybe the same but at least when you do the tranny; and the tranny, well that is what this thread is all about. As with all, others may have very different views.

Hi All,

In The Verandah (click link below) the steel pan kit and oil are available to members at a discount from Rhys. Check-it out.....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/1...ts-fluids.html

Cheers.....

Originally Posted by Owl

I believe the idea is that you cut the filter neck off the plastic pan so that the pan can be removed without dismantling the whole car. Then remove the cut off bit before fitting the new filter and pan.

Dont cut off the pipe from the new pan, you will noy get circulation through the filter. If you cut off install metal pan with separate filtre as bbyer says.

The old pan can be removed and new one fitted by unbolting the transmission hydraulic unit (forgotten what it is called) instaed if unbolting the transmission and one engine mount.

Hi all,

I've been researching about purchasing a D3 and I noticed the issue of the transmission pan & oil changeover. So I thought I'd give a few places a call to see what they charge. A well known LR service provider in the southern suburbs of Melbourne quoted $1040 for a change of pan & oil and transmission specialist in the Northern suburbs of Melbourne quoted $880. Now I know that's quite expensive to service a transmission after getting used to paying about half of what they charge on my current car. What got me concerned is when I asked the transmission place how good the boxes are, honestly she says to me they are no good, they are unreliable and expensive to fix if broken, in the vicinity of $5k. Now I know this was the girl at reception, and she may have over exaggerated things, but overall what is peoples opinion of it and apart from the stories of shudder are they that bad. My theory is if you look after something and maintain it properly you should hopefully not have any problems, is it the same with the ZF boxes ?

Cheers
Argonaut

There is nothing wrong with the gearboxes as long as they are serviced in accordance with ZF's recommendations and not Landrovers.

These boxes are fitted in a number of different makes of vehicles.

Cheers

Garry

Originally Posted by Tote

Since my D3 has been getting the shudders I thought I'd post some of my research on a new thread rather than generating heaps of posts on the FAQ. Happy to be corrected on any points that other people know of, maybe we'll all learn something. So to kick it off....

Transmission is a ZF 6HP26 unit. Is currently fitted to BMWs, Ford Falcons and Territories, Audis and Jaguars to name a few

The transmission has been around in one form or another since 2001 when it was introduced on a 7 series

ZF have designated the transmission as "sealed for life" but a more accurate description of this strategy would be "sealed until the warranty period is over"

The Land Rover variant uses a plastic sump which has an inbuilt filter which is a throwaway with the sump at service time. The filter also means that the engine has to be lifted from one mount to fit the new sump. ZF make a steel sump part number 1068 103 820 01 Kit Sump. an alloy sump may also be available ex Ford. These variants do not have the filter inbuilt and can be fitted / removed without lifting the engine.

Fluid for these transmissions is ZF LifguardFluid6 part number S671 090 253 for a 20 litre drum. Dealers charge $78 a litre, other repairers less but it's still expensive.
Other alternatives may be Motospecs Part # 749626, Ford RI-28, Shell ATF M 1375.4, Mercon SP XT-6-QSP Ford have a RRP of $48 a litre for their oil.


The design of the 6hp26 is different in that it does not have bands but rather clutch packs and the transmission is completely electronically controlled. The torque converter clutch is modulated in that it can be engaging and releasing at a rapid rate to allow a transition between fully locked up and disengaged. The torque converter clutch can lock up in all gears

Due to these transmissions having no service schedule they develop a "shudder" that is similar to driving over a ripple strip embedded in the white line at the edge of a road. This is caused by the degredation of the oil and causes wear to the torque converter clutch and potentially damages the rest of the transmission through contamination and overheating.

It would seem that 50,000KM would be a good time to change the transmission fluid to delay the fault above happening.

Sport mode reduces the shudder substantially, possibly because the transmission is more likely to kick down a gear in response to increased load rather than modulating the torque converter to allow some slip.

There are reports from the UK of coolant contamination from the transmission cooler in the radiator becoming porous. It may be worthwhile to consider testing old fluid for glycol as a transmission flush will not help for long.

It's NOT a "Land Rover Problem".... Googling the transmission model number brings up lots of tales of woe from owners of these transmissions that have failed due to lack of oil changes.

When off road in steep country it is preferable to lock the vehicle in a suitable gear to reduce heat load on the transmission rather than leaving it in drive.

A new transmission will cost you in the vicinity of $7000 so regular oil changes make sense.

Thats all I can think of for now, any other thoughts welcome.
RMP, maybe when we have a complete list we could revise and put in the FAQ?

Regards,
Tote

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