Thread: Disco 3/4 Automatic Transmission FAQ - 6 Speed

Less than maybe 10 posts ago I asked for instructions and some basics were provided.
Nowhere did anyone say when removing the old pan and fluid, does the oil need to be at a certain temperature.

Originally Posted by specwarop

Less than maybe 10 posts ago I asked for instructions and some basics were provided.
Nowhere did anyone say when removing the old pan and fluid, does the oil need to be at a certain temperature.

Ok. So my Cliff notes did say to fill, but I guess I presumed you’d research how to fill? Perfect fill temp is 34deg oil temp. To get that you’ll need an IiD tool to read the gearbox oil temp. Some have used an infrared probe on the pan instead. When oil is slowly leaking out of the filler hole at the right temp you’ve got the level correct. The Land Rover manual says 30-50 degrees I believe.

Ah sorry bit of miscommunication perhaps. I am talking about when I started draining the gearbox before removing the plastic pan.
Undid the filler plug so I knew I wouldnt be stuck later, and almost got a litre of oil on my face.

When I go to fill it later, I am aware of the temperature stuff, bought a IIDTool especially for this.

If the engine is not running - you will always get fluid coming out the filler when it is at the correct level - seems quite normal to me. Clearly if you are just pulling fluid out none of the processes that you need to follow when putting the fluid in or checking fluid level does not apply. A bit like engine oil - the oil level on the dip stick of a cold engine is always higher than that of a running engine where oil is circulating around the engine - same as the gearbox.

If you had the box at the right temp, engine running, through the gears etc and a lot of fluid came out then yes I would be concerned.

But from what you describe, seems normal to me.

Garry

Well the difficulty level on this pan replacement job is quite a bit higher than expected
Getting to some of the bolts is nigh impossible, especially the ones for the heat shield bracket - there is a bloody propshaft on one side and you cant get the bolts back in!

Originally Posted by specwarop

Well the difficulty level on this pan replacement job is quite a bit higher than expected
Getting to some of the bolts is nigh impossible, especially the ones for the heat shield bracket - there is a bloody propshaft on one side and you cant get the bolts back in!

The rearmost heatshield bracket bolt csn be cut down to fit. I agree it is a silly idea. There is more time doing the petrol ones because of this. Also if you have a v6 4.0 one the rear trans mount alloy bracket interferes with the rear lip of the metal pan... a small amount of material needs to be ground away from the pan lip to clear it.

Jc

Yeh I ended up loosening the transmission eye mount, putting the pan on, then tightening the mount up again. Seemed to work well.

Okay so I ran out of time yesterday before I could refill the gearbox, looking to do it this evening.
How did you guys go about jacking it up but keeping it on level ground?
I only have a jack and 2 stands which means either jacking the front only, or one side....

Can you guys fit underneath when the suspension is raised to extended?
How can you make it stay at that height?

Regards