Thread: Disco 3/4 Automatic Transmission FAQ - 6 Speed

Did any of your old bolts show corrosion? Mine did which meant that they were reluctant to go in far enough to clamp the gasket properly, to the extent that I sheared the head off 1 bolt requiring it to be extracted using an eze-out. I then used a tap to clean the threads where they were accessible but for a couple under the front cross-member the Nickel anti-seize did a good enough job.

The RR must be different. There is nothing obstructing access.

Maybe I'm looking at the wrong thing.

I picked up three litres of Lifeguard 6 from Repco Goulburn this afternoon for $29.25 a litre with the 25% discount for motoring association members.
Part number 749626-1 as mentioned in this thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...d-6-litre.html

They had three more in stock, there's none in stock at any of the Canberra shops.

Regards,
Tote

Originally Posted by Graeme

Did any of your old bolts show corrosion? Mine did which meant that they were reluctant to go in far enough to clamp the gasket properly, to the extent that I sheared the head off 1 bolt requiring it to be extracted using an eze-out. I then used a tap to clean the threads where they were accessible but for a couple under the front cross-member the Nickel anti-seize did a good enough job.

Thanks Graeme. While the bolts seemed to come out pretty easily originally, I went back around and removed each bolt, chased the threads with a M6 tap, and put the bolts back with nickel anti-sieze. I found only a few threads which seemed a bit corroded, and they were the ones where leaks were occurring, so I think your theory was right. I left it sit overnight, then rechecked all the bolt torques, and there doesn't appear to be any leaks now.

Originally Posted by rar110

The RR must be different. There is nothing obstructing access.

Mine is a 2007 4.0L V6 petrol. At the front, the engine bashplate partially obstructs the bolts (but it's not too bad). But at the back, access is pretty poor due to the transmission cross member (which passes directly underneath the sump drain plug) and the exhaust pipe for the right bank of cylinders, which crosses over just in front of the transmission support. See photo below (new steel pan is in top left hand side, front prop shaft in the middle, exhaust and transmission support at the bottom. The evil bolts for the heatshield bracket, which are too long to remove without a hacksaw, are in the middle).

I've taken it for a test drive, and noticed a distinct "meshing" noise which wasn't there before. It's coming from the box (since it rises and falls with the gear changes) and sounds almost as if the box doesn't have enough oil. But I've done the procedure per the LR workshop manual (ensuring oil temperature was between 30 and 50 deg) twice and the oil level should be spot on. Now I'm stressed that my efforts over the past week have only made things worse than they were before, despite the new fluid, and wondering whether I shouldn't take it to an auto specialist for a diagnosis.

I'm so over this frikkn thing

I got a local independent LR workshop to do mine recently. Cost me $750 but they flush out the tranny before new fluid goes in. The RR is on a novated lease so the cost is basically tax deductible.

There was very little change after it was done. It may be a little smoother. It has 230,000 km.

Not knowing LR's documented procedure having used ZF's procedure, did you get to run the gearbox through each gear using manual mode before final topping up?

Yes, cycled through all the gears (R, N, D, command shift 1, 2, 3) for a few seconds each. Couldn't get it to go higher than 3 in command shift mode though - figured this was the gearbox deciding since I wasn't moving it wouldn't try.

Have done the pan change and self service on trans 3 times so far and helped a few friends do theirs.
Have not had the problems with bolts that some describe, but they are fiddly and require very small ratchets and such to get some pan bolts out.
Remove rear cross member and jack box up facilitates easier bolt removal.
Best advice I can give on leaks is Hylomar (paste in a tin with a brush that comes with it), on both sides of gasket, and on contact edge surface of new pan. Keep left over can in fridge as it evaporates in can even in shade.
Have found coating surfaces twice before allowing it to tack off, makes for good seal.
Seal often leaks initially, just keep tightening in sequence like you would work around a head or a wheel.
Alternative sealant that pro's use is the gasket cement that Toyota use (comes in a cartridge). Am told that does not leak.
Have just had transmission rebuilt at 309,000k's, It was going OK, but some TC drone and rear main leak so got it all done as I live remote.
In the city I would have probably left it until it died.
It is almost an $8000 job all up, so change fluid regularly, and do not believe dealers who insist it is "sealed for life".