D3 Electric Trailer brake wired-photo

That is correct as Andrew's adjustments.

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sniegy

That is correct as Andrew's adjustments.

Cheers

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Hi sniegy

Regarding the 12S socket, in an earlier post you said that you believed the Blue pink-trace wire was the 30amp battery supply, and that the Brown yellow-trace wire was the switched (ignition) 15amp (fridge) supply. Can you or others confirm this please?

Thanks
John ....

12S socket. Have just discovered that Pin 3 is the earth and Pin-4 the 30amp supply. The centre pin (7) is the earth for the switched 15amp supply on Pin-6.

Cheers
John ...

Nice drawing :)

As we know the standard wiring in the car has individual wires going through the standard trailer socket for each of the tail lights. On Australian trailer's wiring one of these is for the electric trailer brakes so if not disabled when you put the lights on the trailer brakes come on if you have not yet wired up your car.

At the moment I have pulled the relevant fuse in the back of the car so no power is in this circuit at the moment.

When I put my brake controller in I will cut the tail light wire on the power side of the rear fuse box and connect the electric brake wire from the controller to the power side of the fuse box using the cars wiring on the other side of the fuse to power the electric brakes.

So two questions:

1. What size fuse do I need to put into the rear fuse box for the electric trailer brakes?

2. Is the wiring at the rear of the car (from the rear fuse box to the socket) that was originally intended to only power one tail light large enough for the electric brake system?

Thanks

Garry

The two sides of the tail lights come from ONE common tail light wire AFTER the trailer module so I wouldn't go cutting anything at the fuse box - search sneigy has posted very good instructions on where to cut in

Ok thanks but that is not the case with my vehicle.

The rear fuse box has two seperate tail light wires going in and two going out - I have one of the fuses removed so it will not activate the trailer brakes when the headlights are on.

Cutting the power side of this fuse and supplying the signal from the brake controller will provide the brake signal through the old single tail light wiring to the blue trailer brake wire in the trailer wiring.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sniegy

Run 4 wires from the Electric trailer brake unit mounted under the steering column or where ever it is mounted to the rear of the vehilce l/h/s 1/4 panel.

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Sniegy - why did you run all four wires to the rear and not just the single wire that operates the brakes and connect the other wires (earth, battery power, brake signal ignition etc) from the dash.


Cheers

Garry

Weird - why not cut the side after the fuse and connect there - I wouldn't like a fuse between my brake controller and brakes?

Edited

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Meken

Weird - why not cut the side post fuse and connect there - I wouldn't like a fuse between my brake controller and brakes?

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Sorry - don't know what a side post fuse is - my rear fuse box is under the lift up floor in the rear.

Understand what you mean by why a fuse - and I agree. If that is considered not desirable then I will just take the electric brake wire to the dead side of the fuse box so making a direct connection and leave the fuse out.

Cheers

Garry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Meken

Weird - why not cut the side post fuse and connect there - I wouldn't like a fuse between my brake controller and brakes?

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I have probably mis-read your post, so apologies in advance but there are fuses in all critical systems in a D3/4/RRS. Suspension, transmission, lights, ECM, brake booster pump to name but a few.