Thread: D3 Electric Trailer brake wired-photo

Hi Sniegy,

That is a very useful photo, thanks. One question though - where did you run the wiring to get it from the front through into the back corner? I am currently trying to work out where to run cables for both the Prodigy controller and the extensions from a second battery. I know they can be run inside the chassis rail but then they have to be brought back inside somehow and if there is some way to run them inside I then need to get some of the wiring outside to run to the battery in the trailer.

My D3 is now just over a week old so I have to start modifying .

Tim.

Hi Timj,
I ran the wiring from the front panel below the steering column across the under tray where the pedals are & then ran them straight down the side of the vehicle. It is very easy running cables down the side.
The trim from the front drivers tread plate & the rear tread plate is one plastc panel & i removed this (all u do is gently prise it upwards) as well as the "B" pillar trim so i could remove this one panel all together.
I then ran the 4 cables next to the felt door seal all the way along, Near the "C" pillar it all just tucks nicely away under the big 1/4 panel. I then removed the tailgate flap & tucked it under the carpet to get it to the L/H/S.
To gain access into the vehicle from the engine bay there is a large grommet under the brake fluid panel. It sits on the firewall towards the centre of the vehicle, with a torch u cant miss...just a bit of sound deadening on the inside.

As my camper has been ordered with electric brakes I'm looking for a good controller. Ive been told by the camper manufacture ARB have one for about $400, any suggestions.

If you can find out from your camper trailer dealer what is approved with the brake set up then list up the alternatives they suggest.

This comment might not be appliable to all braking systems but is on my van.

Chris

Hi sgieny

Thanks for your photos and comments, I'm 90% there. Just two queries, firstly I assume the circuit braker is after market (dual battery) and under the bonnet? and secondly what type of diode do you use and the best place to source one.

Thanks again.

Originally Posted by smwilk

Hi sgieny

Thanks for your photos and comments, I'm 90% there. Just two queries, firstly I assume the circuit braker is after market (dual battery) and under the bonnet? and secondly what type of diode do you use and the best place to source one.

Thanks again.

Hi There "smwilK",
OK the circuit breaker is an after market unit, but it is basicaly a no intervention resetable fuse. In the picture u can just see it at the bottom of the photo. It gets taped up & cable tied to the wiring loom. Get one of these at any Bursons/Repco shop nearest to you.
The Diode is just a 3amp version that can be picked up for not much more than a dollar from Dick Smith's or some electronics shop close to yourself.

Hi Pete is the Diode only a D3 requirement I assume it is used for over voltage protection, is it needed in a D2?

I'm putting a Tekonsha P3 into my D2 and came across this thread.

Yes I also query the Diode.
I also want to know which controller and what vehicle/model you are citing.

My rig, a Defender needed only one wire to the back.
The white wire goes directly to ground near the Tekonsha controller. The power comes accross from the battery under the floor, up under the fire wall to near the steering column, in there through a new hole drilled downwards with grommet, accross to controller.
The brake light sensor pickup comes directly off the switch for the brakelight.

My tips are to run oversized wires from the battery (but fused near the battery, at the requiste current - around 10-15A.), and also back to the rear socket. I also fuse the sensor feed at about 500mA.