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Sounds like a trip to auto electrician who has installed into LR before - brakes are not for the novice - and you can easily screw up the car electronics with the connections needed. The elec who installed my P3 said they could easily draw up to 30amps under heavy braking with a heavy trailer.... My dad's professionally installed ebc almost burnt the car to the ground due to poor installation job causing an arc every time the brake was used (even without trailer connected)
Ok, I use a proper ratchet crimping tool & bullet connectors (Male & Female).Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimlr
The wire needs to be minimum 4mm2 for the Blue wire as this is the varying voltage wire. The Black, White & Red can be 2.5mm2.
Cheers.
Hi Sniegy
HAve just DIY'd Traxide dual battery kit. Time and patience was the key.
In my new D4 the Australia trailer loom is now in the LHR cubby hole.
I'm a little confused from your instructions on page 1 why you are cutting brown park light wire. Is this because earlier D4's had a Euro loom?
Am I now with the newly positioned Aust loom simply joining my 2 wires to the blue and red wires in the loom? And/or am I running blue all the way to the trailer plug socket?
Cutting nothing till I'm 150% certain
Cheers
Ron
Hey Ron,Quote:
Originally Posted by RHS58
Good idea, I like the 150% :D
The wiring Loom for AUS has always been in the L/H/R cubby area.
Ron the vehicle has two park light circuits. One goes to pin 7 which is what we require. But one goes to pin 5 which is where we need our blue wire (from the electric trailer brake unit) to go to.
The loom has a black wire (Park Light circuit) which then splits into 2 & goes off to pin 5 & pin 7. When the wire splits it goes from a single black wire through a soldered & glued connector to become a brown wire(goes to pin 5) & a black wire which (goes to pin 7) in the standard position.
So, in the L/H/R cubby area where the loom lives, The soldered/glued connector is wrapped in tape (It used to be on the outside but the loom has changed) you need to peel back the tape to find this & cut as close as possible to the glue & connect your blue wire to it.
Some people like to run the wiring to the rear of the black plug. In the photo's of mine (Early D4) i connected it under the tail light. If you like you can run the cable to the rear of the plug & connect there if you wish.
HTH in some way, any questions please feel free to ask away.
Cheers
Many thanks, at last I've got it!!
It was all there, I just couldnt visualise it.
Now I'm good to go.
Cheers
Ron
Done and dusted.
P3 is in. Controller in front of left knee. Plenty of room, close to hand.
All went well.
Works fine.
Did all the grunt work last weekend running cables at same time as Traxide DBS install.
Had auto electrician finish off all the joins etc for me, and wire in the Linear Electronics in vehicle module. He has skills and tools I don't.
He also found that the left and right indicator wires at the black trailer plug socket had been transposed - a blooper at the factory it seems.
At least you had it connected. I had my MY13 NOV D4 into the dealers last week to fit the wiring loom which had been left out at manufacture. No wonder the trailer plug didn't work. :oQuote:
Originally Posted by RHS58
Greetings from a newbie, this is a great thread and I am now a (dangerously) informed customer heading to auto electrician with my 2013 D4 to get P3 etc fitted. Thanks Sniegy for your support.
Things are getting complicated - now I need a breakaway brake battery status light on the dash as well as break unit. Any hints on fitting this Sniegy or Team? Seems like I am going to run out of pins to connect wires through.
Hi Kingsley,
I am not sure what is needed for the breakaway light "on the dash" but have wired supply for breakaway brakes (which can be a set of brakes on a trailer)
What was required for this was just a separate power feed to pin no.2 for the supply of said brakes.
Some more info. may be required.
But hopefully this is enough.....maybe!!??
Cheers