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Thread: D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Melbourne
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    Lightbulb D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

    Morning all,
    Thought i would post up some photo's i have for the new D4 Electric trailer brakes.
    The wiring has changed in the Discovery 4 which is a good thing as it is easier to wire.
    Now lets begin & hopefully it will be clear for all to follow.

    Trailer Plug info(7 Pin Plug):- Australian Regs:-
    Pin1 Yellow Left Indicator
    Pin2 Black Reverse/Auxilary
    Pin3 White Earth
    Pin4 Green Right Indicator
    Pin5 Blue Electric trailer brakes/Auxilary
    Pin6 Red Brakes
    Pin7 Brown Tail lights


    As per usual 4 wires:-
    Black +ve direct to battery via Circuit Breaker.
    White -ve direct to battery/battery post.
    Red Connection to brake light wire in trailer loom.
    Blue Connection to Pin No. 5 on Black trailer plug socket.
    You will need to run Black & White wire to the front of the vehicle & the Red & Blue wire to the rear of the vehicle under the L/H/S tail light.
    All 4 wires will run from the position you decide to place your Electric trailer brake unit. (normally at the L/H top edge of the panel under the steering wheel).
    When removing this panel just grab the top section & pull in an arc downward, if you brake, lose the clips the part number is FYC500040.

    In this photo below i have had to find the splice joint in the wiring loom for the park light circuit (all European vehicles run a left & a right park light circuit in there vehicle wiring loom)
    It is basically one wire feeding 2 Pin outs. (Pin 7 is our park light circuit & Pin 5 is our supply for our Electric trailer brake varying voltge).
    Remove the L/H/R tail light assembly by undoing the 2 phillips head screws & then prising the light gentry from the body with a flat blade & cloth inserted between them so as not to scratch the paint work.
    Cut away the black tape on the loom that goes down to the bottom connector, you will come across the splice joint (brown cable with glue coming out on connection-you will notice it starts as a black wire only & after this splice joint it will have a brown & black coming out). The black wire goes to Pin no. 7 & is your park light wire, the brown wire is the other park light wire that we do not need & connect the blue wire to for your trailer brakes. Cut wire as close to splice as possible, tape splice joint up & connect your blue wire to the brown wire that now goes to the plug in the wiring loom.



    What we have done is basically supply the cut brown wire the varying voltage for your trailer brakes via the blue wire we have run.
    The red wire just connects to the red wire in the same loom that goes to the bottom plug, this is the brake light wire pick up.
    In this photo you can just make out the 2 connections & the cut of the brown wire.




    The photo above just shows the exit point on the firewall (rubber grommet) that i passed the cable through. This is on the drivers side brake booster compartment.
    Below shows how i cable tied up nice & neatly the Black & White wire to connect directly to the battery via a Circuit breaker & Earth post next to the Main battery box.


    On the new vehicles there is no 2nd fuse box in the rear nor the need for the Diode.

    Cheers all.

    p.s. sorry for the poor quality images, from my phone. Will hopefully get better pics when i can.
    Last edited by SBD4; 30th November 2016 at 06:56 PM. Reason: Correct thread title.

  2. #2
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    Straight to the TGO "Pool Room"
    Last edited by Pedro_The_Swift; 7th February 2010 at 08:52 AM.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney
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    Hi Sniegy, I pick up my new White D4 on Thursday and need to fit a electronic brake controler, what brand did you use?

    Cheers

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Hi WhiteD4,
    The most common units we are asked by customers to fit are either the Tekonsha Prodigy/Voyager or plain jane Hayman Reese unit.
    To wire in they are all the same, its just the adjustments on the unit that differ.
    I have also wired in Red Arc (my personal fave) with & without the remote head & a few others that the names i dont recall.
    It just depends on what you tow, ease of use to you & how fancy you want the unit to look.

    Cheers & Congrats on the new beast

  5. #5
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    How long does it take to do a brake controller install on a D4?

    edit...

    Roughly how much should this job cost on a D4 for a P3 Supply and install?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Hi Mowog,
    This would give a rough estimate as not sure of what costs are involved in diffrent states etc.

    Normally around 2 - 2 1/2 hrs,
    +
    Electric Trailer Brake Unit,
    +
    Circuit Breaker,
    +
    Wire/connectors etc (Sundries)

    I can only assume but around
    the 750-800 dollar mark, depending on labour rates, price of unit etc etc.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
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    sniegy

    Do mind if I send you a PM with some more detailed questions in regard to the trailer electric prep done by the selling dealer?

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Please do, as that is why i am here.
    Cheers.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    41
    Hi Again

    I was at the dealer where we are buying our caravan from today and he told me that i will need a special adaptor box from LR that connects to the trailer plug. I apparently need this due to the fact the caravan has LED lights and without this box the van will be like dodgy Xmas tree.

    I am told this box will set me bag a further $250. Funny thing is i spoke to the landy dealer i am getting the vehicle from and he doesn't know much about this.

    Can you shed some light on it for me.

    Cheers
    Paul

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,016
    I have LED's on my van. I tested my lights over the Australia day weekend. They worked fine.

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