D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

HiRick, See Below for answers.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RickO

G'Day 'Sniegy', 'Drivesafe', All,

Being about to start on the well trodden route of hooking up a jayco caravan to a D4 I find myself with the often discussed 'to 12pin flat or no to 12 pin flat' decision.


From what Jayco tells me the maximum current draw re the fridge on pin 9 (ignition) would be about 9-10 amps going directly to the fridge while pin 2 (permanent) goes to the battery in the van after it has been thru power management unit.


Noting that there are a multitude of threads which I have tried to check out before posting, I have a couple questions that I hope you might be able to answer regarding to the replacement of the white 12S plug with a 12pin flat
plug.


1. How would the 12 pin (replacing the white 12S) be connected up? Would the feeds for the indicator, break light wires etc simply get tapped from the rear of the black 12N plug?

**Yes, Just connect to the 12N Black plug, preferably solder if your that handy. **Can use "Bullet Connectors" BUT No "Scotch Locks"

2. Could the +ve and -ve wires from a Traxide rear 'Anderson' plug be fed into the rear of a standard 12 pin plug (pin 4 - permanent 12V) - in order to enable battery charging via charger/solar using a separate 12pin plug with just the permanent 12V and ground pins present?

**Pin 4 is R/H Indicator? SO not sure what you mean. refer attachment.
**If you mean in Pins 9 & 10 then i don't see too much of a problem.


3. And most importantly of all, would you consider the replacement of the white 12S with a 12pin to be a DIY job? If not, could you provide an estimate of the likely cost to have this done? Is this something your place does Sniegy?

**If you are handy with basic tools, you can follow wiring instructions then Yes.

**I work for a dealer in Melbourne, so i have done this plenty of times.
**$495.00 to S&F 12 Pin flat plug in Lieu of 12S White plug only.


Thanks a mil,
RickO

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Rick,
Consider also the "New" Red Arc Unit.
EBRH-ACC Tow Pro
Tow-Pro™ Electric Trailer Brake Controller - REDARC
It is a progressive braking unit & not a bulky unit also.

Cheers

Tow-pro certainly looks the goods. Could be tempted to swap out the P3 for this. Is there room in (behind) the headlamp switch panel for a 10mm hole and the remote head unit/knob, so it can all look nice and neat?

Jim,
Have a client wanting one fitted Thursday.
Will let you know next weekend if you can wait as i have not seen one physically in my hand yet.

Cheers

Jim, All,
The newer style RED ARC unit fits no problems at all.
Instructions are first rate & if followed to a "T" It all fits very well.

The controller knob fits easily in the D4 head light switch panel, it also fits on the steering shroud on either side. Just be careful fitting here as it is longer so make sure you make a dummy out of foam then stick & fit to make sure it doesn't touch anything.

Cheers

Which location did you end up fitting the switch Pete?

Got any pics?

Hi Mike,
Just did a Sport today & finally got the kit in my hand to physically look at.

Fitted it to the L/H/S Steering column shroud (as this one had an Auto Column switch on the R/H/S).
May be able to grab a snap as i have finished it late this arvo & client wants it early in the morning.
See how i go.:p

Cheers

Just out of interest we just upgraded to a D4 and as part of the delivery we had a Redarc EBC fitted (remote unit).

This unit even at low settings applies the brakes on the trailer with a great deal more force than our P3 did in the D3.

I know the P3 works on inertia but as noted earlier in this thread I wound it up to full power and boost and applied the manual lever and it applied the trailer brakes less at full power than the redarc does at say 3.

Just my experience having now used both units with the same trailer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scary

Just out of interest we just upgraded to a D4 and as part of the delivery we had a Redarc EBC fitted (remote unit).

This unit even at low settings applies the brakes on the trailer with a great deal more force than our P3 did in the D3.

I know the P3 works on inertia but as noted earlier in this thread I wound it up to full power and boost and applied the manual lever and it applied the trailer brakes less at full power than the redarc does at say 3.

Just my experience having now used both units with the same trailer.

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I haven't read your other posts relating to the P3 but something doesn't sound right. I've been using a P3 with my racecar trailer for a few years now. Without the car on the trailer I set it to 2 and with the car on (~1800kg inc trailer) it gets set to 5.8. Any more than that and I can feel the trailer stopping the car.

Having said that I have just this weekend purchased my first Discovery 4 and haven't decided yet if I will stick with the P3 or go for something a little more "stealth".

Hi,

Any photos available on the proposed mounting of the remote control in the headlight facia.

My task this weekend in the installation of the Tow Pro.

By the way, if trailer magnets progressively need more current/longer duty cycle to apply a greater force for braking, a 3 amp diode something like a 1N5404 may not be sufficient, the voltage drop and then heat it needs to dissipate may limit the diode's life and could fail when extreme proportional force is needed.

Redarc suggests that the Tow Pro could deliver nominally 18 amps, a single axle trailer could proportionally draw 6-9 amps each depending on braking condition.

At minimum I would suggest a 6 amp axial diode, Jaycar has a P600A. Cat no. ZR1024.

I am a bit amused why LR has never installed a separate electric brake control wiring harness/plug. My previous v10 Touareg was truly plug and play.

My install, will be interesting, as I have already fitted a full Kaymar rear wheel carrier, which has A full complement of LED's, only minor issue is LED indicators flashing each time any door closes.

More to come after the job is done. I will create a full set of PDF instructions.

Regards

Gerald